Happy Holidays!

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Unfortunately for me, it’s almost summer, which is my absolute least favorite time of the year…but instead of counting down the days until Christmas (and the start of my favorite time of year, aka winter), I thought I’d share a bit about all the other holidays we tend to celebrate in our diversified household. Having lived in so many places, we seem to have collected quite a few holidays over the years, and honestly, once you start celebrating them, it’s really hard to stop! So here are a few of our favorite international holidays/traditions that we’ve picked up along the way:

Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day / Fête Nationale

Since it’s coming up on June 23rd /24th, and it’s a major holiday in our current home, I think it’s only right to start with Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day also known as La Fête Nationale! This holiday is celebrated in the province of Quebec and in other Francophone communities around Canada. Originally, it was a religious feast day honoring John the Baptist, but over the years it has morphed into a celebration of all things Québécois and Francophone. Here in Québec City, there is a huge concert every year in the park and lots of free workshops and activities around the city showcasing the region’s traditional music, the French language, and other cultural cornerstones. It’s also the unofficial start of summer, so pretty much everyone will be outside in one way or another, enjoying the festivities, a freshly grilled meal, and/or a cold boisson or two out on a patio. Any way you look at it, c’est une bonne fête!     

Día de la Independencia

As Americans, we often celebrate Cinco de Mayo, which irritates a lot of Mexicans because the 5th of May is NOT Mexican Independence Day! It’s actually not much of a holiday there at all, so stopping tagging your Mexican friends when you’re eating tacos on what is basically just another US holiday. Instead, you should tag them on September 15th/16th, which is Mexico’s actual Día de la Independencia. Okay, so I know this is the second holiday in a row where I’ve included two dates of celebration, and that’s actually more common than you might think. In Mexico’s case, it’s because the celebrations actually start at night with the Grito de Dolores, which commemorates the historic call to arms that began the Mexican War of Independence. Of course, after the historic speech, patriotic chants, and some bell ringing, modern celebrations generally conclude with a fireworks show and a big fiesta! ¡Viva México!

(Canadian) Thanksgiving

Okay, back to Canada for the next one because the second Monday of October is Thanksgiving here. Did you know Canada celebrated Thanksgiving? And that it takes place over a month earlier than in the US? Well, this was news to us when we first moved here, but since this is one of my favorite holidays, we happily celebrate both every year! Feasts associated with giving thanks were quite common in both Europe and the New World, and because different groups were thankful for different things that happened on different days, the continent actually ended up with a few such holidays. In Canada, Thanksgiving was officially declared a national holiday in 1879, but the fixed date we have now wasn’t actually standardized until 1957. These days, Canadian Thanksgiving tends to lean heavily into the harvest festival vibes. For example, this is when we start seeing a lot more pumpkins, both for decoration and for the big meal that usually takes place the weekend before the day off. But to me, the best thing about celebrating Thanksgiving in October is the fact that there’s absolutely no interference with Christmas decorations!

Día de Muertos

Easily one of the most unique holidays we get to celebrate every year, Día de Muertos is so much more than the brief glimpse you get in the movie Coco. It’s celebrated on November 1st and 2nd, but much like Christmas, there’s a long period of preparation and decoration beforehand. In short, these festive days are a celebration of the spirits of people who have passed away (the first is specifically for children, and the second for adults). As part of the celebration, you’ll see millions of cempasúchil (marigolds), papel picado (colorful banners), and ofrendas (altars) all meant to guide, welcome, and celebrate those not with us anymore. Unlike most remembrance holidays though, Día de Muertos isn’t a somber event at all – it’s another fiesta! It’s a time for family and friends to come together and celebrate life with all the classics: music, games, and plenty of food and drink!  

Double 11

Going in a wildly different direction, on November 11th each year, we also get to take part in Double 11. Sometimes referred to as Singles Day, Double 11 is a holiday (of sorts) that’s celebrated in China and now, beyond. It originated as a sort of anti-Valentine’s Day, a day in which you treated yourself to something special regardless of your relationship status. A common, funny treat would often be Pocky as they resemble the date: 11/11, but eventually, other companies caught on to the trend, and now Double 11 is the largest online shopping “holiday” in the world. You can find deals on just about every major online retailer, and much like on Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and Boxing Day, every year, companies try to outdo themselves, essentially creating an entire month of shopping frenzy!   

Andrzejki Day

Andrzejki Day (or Saint Andrew’s Day) is a curious little holiday that we first celebrated in Poland. It takes place on the evening of November 29th, and is one of the witchiest holidays I’ve ever celebrated, which makes sense because its origins date back to medieval Europe when fortune telling was all the rage. Essentially, Andrzejki Day is a time for young people to conduct a series of activities meant to give them a glimpse into their future. One of the most common methods is pouring hot wax through an old key into cold water and interpreting the shapes that form, but my favorite is peeling an apple, throwing the peel over your shoulder, and deciphering the letter it most resembles (which is naturally going to be the first letter of your future spouse’s name). These days, it’s not taken very seriously, but what a great excuse to gather and do something fun and unique! Even though it’s been more than a decade since my first Andrzejki Day, I still like to peel an apple every once and a while because somehow, I have yet to get a W or a T!  

Chinese New Year

Skipping over all the holidays that take place in December (since I’ve already written about Christmastime in Poland, China, and Mexico), we’ll jump right into Chinese New Year. Chinese New Year, which is China’s celebration of the Lunar New Year, starts on the first day of the first month of the lunar calendar (generally in late January/early February). When people say this is the biggest and most important holiday in China, they absolutely mean it because the celebrations are multi-faceted, and they last for weeks! There’s the annual cleaning to start the year off right; the colorful decorations (like the fu symbols, couplets, lanterns, etc.) which bring good luck and fortune; the televised gala that everyone watches; the red packets full of money that you get and give all week long; the acrobatic lion dances that seem impossible but also so fun, and, of course, tons of incredible holiday food. The more I write here, the more I want to write an entire post about Chinese New Year! Maybe next year, which is the Year of the Sheep by the way.  

Pączki Day

I promise Poland has a lot of serious holidays too, but those are not the ones I chose for this particular list lol! The last holiday I want to shed some light on here is one that I think we can all get behind, and that is Pączki Day. Pączki are Polish donuts, and they enjoy a special day on what a lot of people call Fat Tuesday (of course, in Poland they actually celebrate it on the Thursday, but if you want to eat donuts all week, I won’t judge). Like Fat Tuesday (or Mardi Gras or Shrove Tuesday or whatever you want to call it), Pączki Day falls before the traditional fasting season of Lent; therefore, historically, this was the day to eat all sorts of fatty, sugary treats before being good for the next forty days. Of course, there’s no rule that says you have to fast in order to enjoy a pączek on this day, and thanks to Poland’s wide diaspora, you might even be able to find pączki in your city. We’ve found them in Chicago, Orlando, and Ottawa, but in the spirit of international holiday celebration, I think any donut will do!

So happy holidays everyone!

Peruvian Adventure

On By Dani Francuz Rose1 Comment

We just got back from another incredible trip, which means it’s time to reflect and reminisce. This trip was unlike many others because it required a lot more prep than we’re used to, so if you’re planning a trip to Peru, hopefully I can help you out a little with my breakdown of some of our plans and experiences. And if you’re not planning a trip to Peru, here’s your sign to start!

The Preparations

As I mentioned, we actually had to do quite a few things well in advance for this trip. Generally, we just book our flights and lodging and let the rest of the trip unfold in real time; however, there are two things about Peru that forced us to think ahead a bit more: 1, we knew we’d be at elevation again, and 2, Machu Picchu is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world.

For the elevation issue, we decided to play it safe and get a prescription for Acetazolamide from our local pharmacy. Here in Québec, we didn’t need to see a doctor, we just had to talk to the pharmacist about our trip (how long it was, what the elevation would be, etc.), and he gave us a week’s worth of a medication that we started to take a couple of days before we left. This medication works by helping your blood carry more oxygen, which can prevent the symptoms of altitude sickness (known in Peru as “soroche”). 

The other challenge we faced months before our trip was booking everything for Machu Picchu. To say there are a lot of options would be a gross understatement. You can take weeks and hike in from far away places in almost every direction; you can camp; you can glamp; you can take a scenic train ride; you can stay in Cusco and do a day trip; you can stay at the base of the mountain in Aguas Calientes – really there are so many options, and you basically have to decide all that before you can buy your park tickets for the specific day/time you want. The trickiest part is the fact that those park tickets are released in batches about 5 months in advance, and they get snapped up pretty darn quick!

Cusco

So, we chose Cusco as our main base for this trip because we knew we needed to acclimate to the elevation (Cusco sits at 3,400m or 11,200ft), and it’s such a great jumping off point for things like Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley, and Vinicunca. We totally thought it’d just be a place for us to rest and generally just pass through, but we absolutely LOVED Cusco! It has so much to do and is so beautiful that even when our lungs were screaming after climbing all the stairs, we continued to push through just to see a little more. Everyone we met was extremely friendly, and the food was some of the best we’ve had, so really, I cannot recommend Cusco enough!

One of our favorite things to do in Cusic was to just wander the different neighborhoods. We stayed in San Blas, and it was absolutely beautiful, but there are many points of interest and fun things to see everywhere you turn. We also enjoyed grabbing a coca tea infusion or a coffee at one of the many cafés in the city. The Chocolate Museum was free and definitely worth a pop-in, plus right next door is Cervecería del Valle Sagrado, which had our favorite beers of the trip. Also, I mentioned the food in general was excellent, but our favorite restaurant of the trip was LOCAL where we had their empanadas, grilled fish, ceviche, and lomo saltado (all delicious)!

Machu Picchu

And now for the main event! Of course, one of the main reasons we chose Peru was to visit Machu Picchu, but I’ll be honest, you have to really want it! Since we decided on a day trip from Cusco, we started our morning at 3am by walking to the IncaRail office where we got on shuttle bus (i.e. van) that drove us the 2 hours out to Ollantaytambo. From there, we got on the train that took us another 2 hours through the Sacred Valley to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. Aguas Calientes was another surprise for us – it’s such a cute town with quite a few restaurants/shops and a local flavor of its own. If I were planning this trip again, I think I would have made it an overnight trip to Machu Picchu, staying at least 1 night in Aguas Calientes.

Once at the base of the mountain, we opted for the bus ride to the top. You can hike up, and it apparently only takes an hour or two, but I’m so glad we chose the bus! The buses kick up a lot of dust that the people walking had to battle along the way, not mention the bugs, the sun, and lots and lots of stairs. Once in the park, the “circuits” or paths that you choose from when buying tickets, ended up looking quite similar and even crisscrossed at points, so don’t let that decision haunt you for too long. There are also some additional hikes you can do that take you out of the park, but I felt we got plenty of incredible views and hiking opportunities regardless.

However, I do wish we had taken them up on hiring a guide to accompany us up from Aguas Calientes because unlike any other tourist attraction I’ve ever been to, there were no information signs anywhere on the mountain. We followed our roped path and wondered aloud about everything. Whose llamas are these? When did they begin restoration? How many people lived here? Basically, we had a lot of Googling to do, so if you want real-time commentary, definitely get a guide. The other thing I would make sure to do next time is to book any and all train transport during daylight hours – the train ride in was incredibly beautiful, and it was a shame that we rode back in the dark. I absolutely wanted to see it all again in reverse!

Vinicunca

Our second day trip was down to Vinicunca, also known as Rainbow Mountain. This particular Airbnb Experience also required a very early start as we made our way to a pick-up location in the city, this time to be shuttled 2 hours in the opposite direction of Machu Picchu to Cusipata. There we had a buffet breakfast and guzzled down some more coca tea in preparation for our hike. After another very windy 2 hours in the van, we were at the base of Vinicuna. Here we could opt to either hike on foot, ride a horse, or wild out with some dirt bikes. We went the traditional route even though it was the slowest option, but again, I’m so glad we did. We took our time looking in every direction at the stunning scenery around us, and eventually we summited the 5,0036m (16,500ft) mountain.

We’ve done a few hikes at elevation now, and we’ve always been fine. We take any recommended medication, local remedies, and general acclimation advice, and although we often experience minor symptoms like a headache and breathlessness, we’ve never gotten sick. I will say though that in both Ecuador and Peru, we saw several people being helped down with stretchers, and at Vinicunca, someone left in an ambulance, so I would recommend anyone traveling or hiking in these conditions to do your research and take it easy! That said, Vinicuna has 1,600m (5,000ft) on Machu Picchu, and we absolutely noticed that difference – I’m not sure we felt anything elevation related at Machu Picchu, whereas Vinicunca was tough.

After our gorgeous hike up and down, we went back to Cusipata for another buffet and then napped the rest of the way back to Cusco. This excursion started at 4am and ended at 5pm. Our Machu Picchu day started at 3am and ended at midnight (honestly a day trip and a half). And all of this was after our 24+ hour-long journey just to get to Cusco from Québec City, which is why I’ll say it again, you really have to want it! Of course, I hope it also goes without saying that it was absolutely worth every second of uncomfortable travel, and I’d do it all again in a heartbeat! #YOLO

Lima

After Cusco, we went onto to Lima for a couple of days to recover and reset before the long journey home. Lima is the capital of Peru, and it’s located in a desert on the coast – very different from Cusco or anywhere in the highlands. Lima is huge, and the first decision you have to make is which neighborhood do you want to stay in: Cercado (the historic center), Miraflores (the modern tourist hub), or Barranco (the artsy, bohemian district). We chose Miraflores and were happy to be in the middle, well-positioned to explore all three neighborhoods. We did a walking tour of Cercado, and it was fantastic – my only regret was that we did it on the last day of our stay rather than the first!

Other than the walking tour, we really enjoyed strolling along the malecón (boardwalk) and watching all the paragliders. If we’re ever back in Lima, that’s the first activity I’ll be planning! We also loved sipping our Pisco sours at the Gran Bolivar Hotel, where the drink was allegedly created, and walking through Parque Kennedy and seeing all the cats (and their embassy-sponsored shelters) was also really fun. Despite being the sixth South American country we’ve visited, Peru surprised us at just about every corner, which is, of course, just how I like it!  

The Food

And last but not least, as has become a sort of custom on these posts, I want to end with a list of all the Peruvian dishes we were able to try while there. We always make ourselves a little checklist, and here’s what we had for Peru:

Ají de gallina (chicken stew)

Alpaca meat

Butifarra sandwich (ham, pickled veggies, and chilies)

Causa Limeña (stuffed mashed potatoes)

Ceviche

Chifa (Peruvian-Chinese fusion)

Chica morada (purple corn and fruit drink)

Empandas

Grandma’s soup (chicken noodle soup)

Inca Cola (most popular soft drink)

Lomo saltado (stir-fried beef and veggies)

Native potatoes

Picarones (sweet potato donuts with spiced syrup)

Pisco sour (Peruvian cocktail)

Pollo a la brassa (rotisserie chicken)

Québec City Recommendations

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Restaurants:

  • Les Anciens Canadiens (Uppertown) – traditional Québécois style
  • Le Clan (Uppertown) – elevated local ingredients; tapas-style lunch
  • La Bûche (Uppertown) – modern Québécois style; sugar shack-like experience
  • Au Petit Coin Breton (Uppertown) – classic crêpes & French gratins
  • Chez Ashton (Uppertown) – a Québec favorite for poutine
  • La Pizz Place Royale (Petit-Champlain) – pizzas & pints right on the main square
  • Le Lapin Sauté (Petit-Champlain) – rustic, farm-to-table comfort food
  • Bistro St-Malo (Old Port) – classic French bistro with maritime vibes
  • Le Renversant (Old Port) – casual brasserie with a little bit of everything
  • La Grolla (Côte d’Abraham) – Swiss fondue restaurant
  • St-Hubert (Grande Allée) – beloved QC chain famous for its rotisserie chicken
  • Baloney Sandwicherie (Rue St-Jean) – quirky sandwich shop
  • La Cuisine (Rue St-Vallier E) – retro/homey Québec classics
  • L’Affaire est Ketchup (Rue St-Joseph) – interesting mix of fine-dining and home kitchen
  • Chez Biceps BBQ (Boul. Henri-Bourassa) – incredible BBQ with a French flair

Cafés:

  • Les Brûleries – great coffee, even better spicy hot chocolate
  • Café La Maison Smith – the go-to for most Quebecers
  • Paillard – boulangerie with a fun atmosphere
  • Café Buade – historic and eclectic café and restaurant
  • Café Félin Ma Langue Aux Chats – cat café; need I say more?

Bars/Pubs:

  • Pub St-Patrick – classic Irish pub right downtown
  • Bar Ste-Angèle – old-school bar with live jazz          
  • Pub L’Oncle Antoine – 17th century cellar turned tavern  
  • Vieux Carré – speakeasy-style cocktail lounge
  • Le Ciel! – Revolving bar and restaurant on the 28th floor
  • La Barberie (Microbrasserie) – off-the-beaten track brewery with a great sampler

Quebec specialties to try:

  • Poutine – fries, cheese curds, gravy
  • Tourtière – homemade meat pie
  • Soup aux pois – yellow pea soup
  • Pouding Chômeur – maple syrup bread pudding
  • Sortilège – sweet, whisky-based maple liqueur
  • Tire d’érable – maple taffy

Things to see in Vieux Québec:

  • Dufferin Terrace & Château Frontenac (boardwalk and famous hotel)
  • Citadel & Plains of Abraham (military base/museum and massive park)
  • The Fortifications (4.5km/3mi defensive walls surrounding the city)
  • Morrin Centre & Maison de la littérature (two very unique libraries)
  • Rue St-Louis & Rue St-Jean (shopping/snacking streets)
  • Notre-Dame de Québec (stunning basilica-cathedral)
  • Séminaire de Québec Courtyard (beautiful and original French architecture)
  • Montmorency Park (great views of both Uppertown and Lowertown)
  • Quartier Petit-Champlain (shopping/snacking area)
  • The Old Port (views of the river, marina, and the city above)

Things to see outside Vieux Québec:

  • Ferry to Lévis ($4 boat ride across the river)
  • Montmorency Falls (nearby falls taller than Niagara!)
  • Île d’Orléans (island known for its produce, boutiques, and vineyards)
  • Wendake (First Nations traditional site)
  • Jacques-Cartier National Park (over 100km of hiking trails)
  • Le Grand Marché (large, indoor market)
  • Cuivres d’Art (copper art museum, workshop, and boutique)

Indoor activities:

  • Parliament Tour (free!)
  • MNBAQ (art gallery)
  • Museums: Museum of Civilization, Morrin Centre, The Plains of Abraham Museum, etc.
  • Strøm Spa Nordique
  • La Revanche (board game resto-pub)

Family/kid-friendly activities:

  • Observatoire de la Capitale (part observation tower, part museum)
  • Le Grand Mini-golf (Québec-themed!)         
  • Aquarium du Québec
  • Mega Parc at les Galeries de la Capitale (indoor theme park in a mall)
  • Bora Parc Valcartier (indoor waterpark)

Summertime Fun:

  • La Cale du Port de Québec (terrace with foot pools)
  • Umbrella Alley (Instagram famous!)
  • Baseball game (see the Capitales play at Canac Stadium)
  • Outdoor concert (check the Old Port Agora for shows/events)
  • Picnic in the park (Pierre-Dugua-de-Mons Terrace has great views)

The Things We Really Miss

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

In one of the classes I’m teaching this semester, we’re reading a book called The Culture Map, which discusses various cultural differences by comparing some of the norms and expectations that can be seen across different countries. Unsurprisingly, reading and talking about what it’s like to live and work in places like the US, Poland, China, and Mexico has me reminiscing a whole lot!

In fact, I recently took a look back at some of the posts I wrote about my experiences living and working in these countries, which got me thinking about the things we miss most about each of them, and I started wondering if those A-Z lists I made near the end of our time in Poland (2016), China (2019), and Mexico (2023) ended up being correct, or if there are other things we miss that I didn’t even think of at the time. So, for this month’s post, take a walk with me down Memory Lane as I delve into what we REALLY miss about some of our first homes abroad.

But first, a disclaimer: each of my original lists had some form of “our home”, “our apartment”, or “our neighborhood”, the cities we lived in: Łódź, Hefei, Guadalajara, and their respective languages: Polish, Mandarin, and Spanish on them, and those would easily make it on any list I were to make today because, well, those were our homes and communities, and I simply love language! But for this post, rather than sentimentality, I’m hoping to narrow down all the other features of each place as objectively as possible. Maybe one day I can use this to find the perfect hybrid of a future home country. You never know!

Poland

When thinking about our time Poland, the first thing that comes to mind, which is, in fact, on my original list, is Ryan Air. Although now I’d probably just say “budget airlines” in general as I have no specific allegiance to Ryan Air over Whizz Air or Easy Jet, the concept as a whole is absolutely one of the things we miss most. In 2016, we took a €30 flight from Warsaw to Porto, Portugal. Can you imagine?! A similar distance here would be for us to go to Winnipeg (not even international), and it would cost at least $400. Of course, digging a little deeper, it’s not just the cost, but the variety and closeness that Poland/Europe provided us. We could and did take a bus to four of Poland’s neighboring countries and a local train to several others in the region, and that’s really what we miss: close international options.

Next up would be the grocery stores, which isn’t on the list exactly, but the idea is there in “chleb” (bread), “kiełbasa” (sausage), and “kartofel” (potatoes). We miss the quality and the freshness of Polish products. At first, I remember lamenting the fact that we had to make so many things (like sauces and salad dressings) from scratch, but now I wish we had fostered those skills a bit more. Thankfully, we did learn some lessons and still habitually make our own bread and pickles, but it feels less purposeful and more avoidance strategy here. I also really miss having a huge variety of all the foods I grew up on. Only in Chicago am I able to find several, authentic varieties of my beloved kabanosy and homemade pierogi (although Ottawa gave us a smaller, but still respectable selection as well), but nothing compares to Poland!

And rounding out the podium of things we miss most about Poland has to be the architecture, which is also on the original list. Honestly, that was one of the things that immediately struck me about living in Łódź, and I never grew tired of staring at all the incredible buildings around me. I’m sure this is partially why we keep choosing historical cities like Guadalajara and Québec because I love being even just a small part of the incredible history of the spaces I inhabit. We don’t often find ourselves re-visiting places, but when we do, by far our favorite pastime is to see how the city has changed because even more impressive than the architecture itself is how it’s adapted again and again. Through its factories turned malls and power stations turned cultural centers, Łódź taught us to look a little deeper at the architecture around us, and I sincerely miss seeing those impressive transformations and how they’ve shaped and re-shaped the city.

China

The first thing we miss about China is so obvious because we bring it up all the time: QR-code payment (represented by “WeChat Pay” on the list). We didn’t use cash at all while we were living in China, and that was close to a decade ago! Stores, restaurants, street vendors, farmers selling produce out of the backs of their trucks – literally everyone used digital forms of payment, and I miss it so much. Not only was it way faster and easier for us linguistically-challenged foreigners, but think of all the paper we saved by avoiding all those receipts! Related to the use of digital payment, I also miss the fact that I could go anywhere with just my phone in my pocket. In China, I almost never bothered with a purse or a bag because everything I needed was on my phone. I’m not generally a huge fan of technology, but that’s absolutely one piece of tech I wish was the norm everywhere.  

Next up for China has to be the fast trains (or the “gāotiě”). Similar to the budget airlines in Poland, I miss the extensive, cheap, and super-easy-to-use train system of China. I often say you can get anywhere in China without a car, which isn’t exactly accurate, but that’s definitely what it felt like. We never worried about getting from city to city or even planning our trips much in advance because there was always another train. In addition to the plentiful (and affordable) travel options the train system gave us, I straight up just miss taking the train. It’s easily my favorite method of transport, and I’m sad that options for it are limited (to say the least) in North America. There’s simply nothing quite like casually slurping up some ramen while the vastness of China zooms by at 200km/h.

The third thing for China has to be some of my favorite Chinese dishes, which is hilarious because I actually struggled with eating nothing but Chinese food for months after we first arrived. I initially found real Chinese food to be altogether too different from what I was used to, and I just couldn’t get over the lack of familiarity. That is until I found my favorites and learned how to ask for what I wanted, essentially creating a new level of familiarity. And now that we can’t get real Chinese food regularly, I find myself making those things myself (which if you know me, you know is a huge deal because as a general rule, I don’t cook). There’s just something so utterly unique about authentic Chinese food, and once you find what you love (which for me includes but is not limited to Chongqing noodles and jianbing, both of which are on the list), it’s hard to live without it. Of course, it’s also hard to live without Ele.me and free tea everywhere we go too, but I’ll save those for another list…  

Mexico

I knew without a doubt that I would miss rainy season when we left Mexico. The US is blessed with an abundance of regular storms, and that was something I quickly came to miss when we first moved abroad. But Mexico upped the ante, and now I miss having a whole season of daily storms and crazy weather. There’s just something about a storm that is so exciting, yet calming at the same time, and being able to set your watch by that phenomenon every day for three months is magical. I know rainy season can actually be dangerous for many people and places around the world, but from my home office in Guadalajara, it was beautiful. And the fact that it brought cooler temperatures every year only added to its appeal. I’m probably one of only a few people in the world aiming for rainy season when I travel, but hey, I knew that about myself then, and it’s still true now!

Another thing we really miss about Mexico was summed up pretty nicely with “spontaneity”, but I don’t think we realized just how much we’d miss it in basically every aspect of life. It could be due to the huge swing back into a super schedule-oriented country like Canada, but we definitely struggled at first getting back into the habit of making reservations and planning things out months in advance. Even now, I sorely miss the ahorita of it all! Nothing felt as rushed or as imperative, and yet everything still got done. When I find myself worrying about things piling up and deadlines fast approaching, I try to channel our GDL years and the tranquilo way of life that everyone loves about Mexico, and rather than making a plan to do something fun next weekend, we’ll up and go right then instead. ¿Por qué no?

And last but not least for Mexico is, of course, the cuisine. Are you sensing a theme? We miss the high-quality groceries of Poland, the unique foods we came to love in China, and for Mexico, it’s all about the perfect collection of ingredients which have come together to make the most delicious cuisine in the world, and you can fight me on that! Tacos – perfect. Molletes – perfect. Palomas – perfect. You name it, I love it. And much like finding authentic Chinese food, the further away you get from Mexico, the less likely you are to find it (especially at a reasonable price). But again, as I reflect, I feel like it’s not just the food that I miss, but the way it was enjoyed. 3am tacos after a night out; molletes for a quick-and-easy breakfast on the go; palomas sipped on a sunny rooftop terrace – the food is incredible, but the atmosphere is even more so!

And while we’re full-on reminiscing here, there was one other thing that happened to be on all three of my original lists: “amigos”, “péngyǒu”, or “friends”, and honestly, more than anything else, that’s what we miss the most. Sometimes it’s hard to have our friends spread out all over the world, but it’s also pretty special. So, here’s to the next time we see each other – reminiscing in one of our homes or off exploring another! Either way, you know we’ll be eating something delicious!

Ottawa vs Québec

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

This week, we celebrated the one-year anniversary of our move to Québec, and surprisingly, some of the most regular questions we still get are about the differences between living in Ontario versus Quebec. Of course, comparisons like these are always hard to make because there are so many factors, but now that we have a little more time under our belts, I think I can share some of the bigger differences, or at least the things that have stuck out the most to two random Americans who happened to spend two years in Ottawa followed by a year in Québec City. Differences like:

Taxes

Can you tell it’s tax season? There’s a reason this is at the top of my list. This is our first year doing taxes in Quebec, and it is bringing about a whole new set of challenges. In Ontario, there’s only a federal tax, but in Quebec there’s federal and provincial. Yay! More formulaires to figure out! In general, taxes (sales tax, income tax, etc.) are a bit higher in Quebec, but as far as we can tell, that seems to even out with the cost of living and services provided. Of course, my favorite part of Quebec’s tax system is that they have a high rate of escalation for income tax – essentially, they tax the rich at a higher percentage, bringing equity into the equation, which is très progressif!

Language

I can’t talk about Ottawa vs Québec without mentioning English and French. Both cites have a large number of bilinguals, but the default languages obviously differ, as does the ease of use and readiness to switch. I didn’t hear very much French in Ottawa, and I feel like walking into a Tims there and asking for un café infusé avec une roussette au miel would have been met with blank stares. However, in Québec, it’s quite common to hear both English and French used daily. This disparity is exactly why Quebec has laws to enforce French as the first language of the province, because if not, English might just take over as it has in many other places around the world. Et c’est précisément pour ça que j’apprends le français.

International Influence

Unsurprisingly, Quebec’s French connection has had a lot of influence on the city. Its historical ties to France have shaped the history, culture, and language here, but even today, there are obvious international influences that differ from the rest of Canada. For example, the largest groups of immigrants into Quebec generally come from other francophone countries, which can be seen very clearly in Québec’s restaurant scene. Ottawa has lots of Chinese, Indian, and Iranian restaurants, not to mention shawarma on just about every other street. On the other hand, in Québec, we have way more French, African, and Caribbean options.   

Names

Another difference we’ve noticed has been the names of things. There’s a pharmacy in Ontario called Shoppers, but here it’s Pharmaprix. KFC is PFK; Staples is Bureau en gros; Loblaw’s is Provigo, etc. A combination of language, branding, and company mergers has given us several “hey-I-know-this-place” surprises over the last year. Perhaps even more strangely though, our own names also changed upon moving to Quebec, well, mine did anyway. In Quebec, you don’t take the name of your spouse, so very often for provincial things (like my health card), I’m asked for my nom de naissance or “birth name”, which for me is different than my official/government name. And that’s how I ended up with yet another alias…good luck identity thieves!

Identity

Speaking of identity, we’ve also noticed that Quebecers are not as concerned with the rest of Canada as the rest of Canada is with Quebec. We heard all sorts of things about Quebec and Quebecers prior to living here, and even now when I talk to Canadians in other parts of the country, they have a lot to say about Quebec. On the other hand, I don’t hear Quebecers talk much about the other provinces and territories. I liken it to New Yorkers. Yeah, New Yorkers are technically Americans, but they’re also their own thing, and Quebecers are very similar. They are Québécois first and Canadien second.  

Services/Community

Another thing we’ve been able to take advantage of here in Québec is the huge number of amazing services and community building activities, which have all been free (thus the higher taxes). We recently went snowshoeing, attended a lecture about the history of Québec, received materials that helped us apply for all our provincial IDs, etc. There are free French and English classes, meet-up groups, game nights, and so much more that has allowed us to meet so many people who call Québec home, and we’ve only scratched the surface! There is really an incredible amount of free and/or affordable services for all sorts of needs. Another good example is daycare. Here, you can find subsidized daycares for around $10 per day. Can you imagine?

Cost of Living

This is another one that’s hard to nail down exactly because, of course, it ultimately depends on what you choose to spend your money on. There are some things that might be more expensive here and others, less, but the biggest thing for us has been rent. We rented two very similar apartments in Ottawa and Québec. Both were two bedrooms, a few blocks away from downtown, all utilities included. Our apartment in Québec is 40+ years newer and a little bigger, yet it’s more than $500 cheaper per month. That cost differential will absolutely be worth the small increase we’ll see in taxes this year.

Driving

Somehow driving always seems to be a category in my country/city comparisons, and Ottawa vs Québec is no different! We lived in Ottawa for two years and never got a ticket. Not for driving, parking, or anything. In less than six months, we got two speeding tickets in Québec. I say “we”, but I wasn’t driving either time… Anyway, the point is, there are WAY more traffic cameras in Québec, and they absolutely work. Oddly, with that said, I also feel it’s more common here to come across a person making a U-turn in the middle of the road and/or ignoring any lane markers (if they can even be seen), so maybe there’s a good reason for all the cameras. Ottawa seems to follow the rules without being watched, and Québec seems to skirt the rules, until there’s photo evidence, of course.

Winter Prep

I’m pretty sure I’ve mentioned this in a previous post, but I just can’t get over how different the two cities handle winter. Ottawa LOVES salt. Everything is super well-salted; I couldn’t have slipped on a sidewalk even if I had wanted to, but Québec uses a mixture of gravel and salt, which is probably cheaper and better for our boots and car but definitely means there’s more opportunity for slippage. Case in point: Tucker and I have each fallen two times in our Canadian years, and all of them happened in Quebec. With the gravel and salt mixture also comes a lot of slush, which can get a little messy. Cue the abri tempos! Another feature of Quebec winters is the appearance of tents. Tents everywhere! Temporary garages, doorway covers, walkway covers, etc. For half the year, there are pop-ups all over the place making for another difference that is super noticeable.

Joie de Vivre

And last, but not least is the infamous joie de vivre. Literally translated to “joy of living”, joie de vivre has such a palpable presence in Quebec. Ottawa (and much of the rest of North America) has such a hustle culture that is completely missing from Québec. Here it’s still common to take a bottle of wine and have a picnic in the park on a random weekday. Or to enjoy one of the many weeks-long festivals we have here in every season. It seems time with family and friends will always win out over work, and no one ever seems to be in much of a rush. Of course, the architecture, cuisine, and language all make Quebec feel more like Europe, but I think it’s really the joie de vivre that draws people in. C’est magnifique!

And there you have it! Just a few of the many differences between life in Ottawa, Ontario and Québec, Quebec. Personally, I would be extremely happy to live in either city, and as is always the case, there are pros and cons to both. What else is there to say except vive la différence! ;)

Québé-Quoi?

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Learning another language is truly a challenge like no other! It’s all-encompassing and never-ending, and if you choose to learn a non-standard variety, like, say, Quebec French for example, it can sometimes feel like you’re learning two languages at once. For example, in class, I was taught words like “chaussure” (shoe) and “portable” (cellphone), but in the streets of Québec City, I hear “soulier” (shoe) and “cellulaire” (cellphone). Of course, I’m all for linguistic choice, but as a proud Quebec resident, I feel the need to learn, use, and share the dialect of my new home, so with that in mind, I give you a few of my favorite Quebecisms: 

Notre char:)

Char

Standard French: voiture

English translation: car

First up is the use of “char” for “car”, and I know what you’re thinking, this has to be English influence at work, but no! “Char” was actually used in Old French to refer to chariots, horse-drawn carriages, two-wheeled carts, and the like. In Quebec, “char” happened to stick around, whereas in France people started using “voiture” for wheeled vehicles and “char” specifically for heavy-duty vehicles like tanks. I’ll be honest though, even our little Ford Focus feels a bit like a tank when busting through the snow banks of Québec City! Maybe it’s not such a big difference after all.

Blonde/chum

Standard French: copine/copain

English translation: girlfriend/boyfriend

Another Quebec classic is the use of “blonde” (regardless of actual hair color) and/or “chum” to refer to your significant other. I say “significant other” because most of the time they’re used for girlfriend/boyfriend, but there’s actually some flexibility there; your fiancé or even your husband could be “ton chum”. Of course, “chum” can also refer to just a friend (of any gender), which isn’t confusing at all, n’est-ce pas?

Très frette…

Il fait frette

Standard French: Il fait très froid

English translation: It’s really cold

Sometimes, necessity is the mother of invention, and in French Canada, the harsh climate has led to many inventions, including some of the linguistic sort. Here, we often experience stretches of -20° temperatures, where “cold” doesn’t quite cut it. So, when it’s Quebec cold aka really cold, we can say “il fait frette”, which means you had better be wearing multiple layers!

Sloche

Standard French: neige fondante

English translation: slush

In addition to the temperature differences between Canada and other Francophone countries, we tend to get a lot more snow over here, and like other snow-dwelling peoples, we need to be able to differentiate between the many different types of snow. Enter the word “sloche”, which refers to the nasty grey sludge that appears after the snow and ice start to melt. Known as “slush” in English, this one probably did come to Quebec via English influence, but the English actually got it from the Scandinavians, so it seems sloche is just a fact of life for all northerners!

Paparmane

Standard French: pastille de menthe

English translation: peppermint

Speaking of English influence, I think one of my favorite examples of phonetic borrowing might just be “paparmane”, which is how Quebecers nativized the English word “peppermint”. I love this for two reasons. For one, I’m always ecstatic when there’s a one-word alternative available in French (somewhat of a rarity!), but I also love it because it highlights just how different the respective orthographies are. If you could only see the way I’ve spelled some Quebec place names prior to seeing them written down… Oof! “Paparmane” is way closer than I ever get!

Jaser

Standard French: bavarder

English translation: to chat

“Jaser” is another Old French word that simply went out of favor in Europe, but is still hanging on in Canada. Here it just means “to chat”, but in France, “jaser” is associated with gossiping and has more of a negative connotation. Interestingly, the word used more commonly in France now is “bavarder”, which comes from a word that meant “saliva” or “drool”, which seems a bit negative in its own right, but what can I say? Language is compliquée.

Aweille

Standard French: allez

English translation: let’s go

“Aweille”, which I’ve also seen written as “enweille”, “awèye”, and even “enwoye” is a very useful Quebec creation for whenever I find myself trying to get my dog to hurry up and go pee already! It has such the perfect combination of sounds for whining, which is my preferred usage, but it can also be used in a more encouraging way like “Come on! Let’s go!” Aweille! There are more Quebec expressions to learn!   

Tiguidou

Standard French: parfait

English translation: okey dokey

Another super positive Québécois word is Tiguidou – positive and extremely fun to say, I might add! The origins of “tiguidou” are somewhat contested, but many believe it’s a borrowing from the British/Scottish expression “tickety-boo”, which honestly doesn’t help much for the Anglophones on this side of the Atlantic because what the heck is “tickety-boo”? Anyway, in Quebec, “tiguidou” is just a fun way to say “A-OK”. Et c’est tiguidou!  

Tabarnak

Standard French: putain

English translation: holy shit

Of course, I can’t have a list of Quebecisms and not include the most famous of them all! A little warning though, if you’re not a fan of profanity, better skip to the next word because it’s impossible to talk about “Tabarnak” without swearing in multiple languages… To those still here, Quebec has a whole set of unique swear words that all have to do with the church, such as “Tabarnak” (which literally means “tabernacle”). Why is that a swear here? Good question! Unfortunately, this is the kind of thing that needs its own post entirely, so for now, you can just think of “Tabarnak” as a multifaceted, catch-all exclamation, not all that unlike the English “holy shit”! 

Attache ta tuque

Attache-la! Attache-la!

Standard French: accroche-toi

English translation: buckle up

Thankfully, I had already bolstered my Canadian vocabulary in Ottawa before relocating to Québec City, otherwise I might have been a little more confused upon first hearing “attache ta tuque”. Tuques are winter hats, so the phrase is literally saying “attach your winter hat”, but it’s used a lot like “buckle up”, as in, we’re in for something crazy here! Hang on your hats!  

Tire-toi une bûche

Standard French: installe-toi

English translation: pull up a chair

I love this expression because it just feels so…colonial. It literally means “pull up a log” as in find an unoccupied stump and have a seat. It’s so easy to imagine early settlers, sitting around a fire in a circle made up of nature’s chairs coining words like “tiguidou” and “paparmane”. There’s definitely an ease to modern-day Quebec culture as well, and I think that’s why a phrase like this still exists. Tire-toi une bûche and let’s just jaser the night away!  

L’affaire est ketchup

Standard French: c’est nickel

English translation: It’s all good

Last but not least, a phrase that I, as a ketchup-lover, just can’t get enough of! “L’affaire est ketchup” literally means something like “the thing is ketchup”, but it’s used as an idiom for “done deal” or “it’s all good”. The idea is that once the final touch of a little ketchup has been added, we’re all set; we’re good to go, which if you’ve ever seen me eat a hotdog, is a sentiment you know I take to heart!

So, there you have it! Just a few of the many colorful words and expressions that I’ve been learning as I strive to become one with La Belle Province! I hope you enjoyed them too! À la prochaine!

Winter Wonders

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

As I sit here listening to the squall winds roar, swirling the snow around and darkening our already shortened day, I am so happy. I know I’ll have to put several layers of clothes on both me and the dog before we brave the cold and the wet for another trip outside, but somehow, I enjoy that too. I often try to share the beauty I see in winter through my photos and memories, but this month, I want to share my feelings through my words as well. Ultimately, I just want people to give winter a chance! It’s so much more than the sum of its parts, but honestly, I think even those are to be enjoyed. So here it goes, my ode to winter wonders.

The Snow

The first thing I love about winter is the possibility of snow. Fresh snow is so magical! It changes everything: how things look, how they sound, how they feel. It brightens, quiets, and softens even the harshest of winter climates. And even if you live in a place that doesn’t get much snow or doesn’t get any snow at all, there’s still the anticipation. Is it going to snow? Will we get a day off? I’ve have friends from tropical countries who were forever intrigued by snow, wondering when they would see and touch it for the first time. It’s certainly one of the more romantic weather phenomena, right? I mean, there are countless songs and poems written about it; millions of paintings that try to capture its essence; it’s the plotline of at least a dozen Hallmark movies – clearly, it’s something special.   

Winter sports

Some people need more than just weather to excite them though, and that’s where winter sports come in! Winter allows for a plethora of seasonal activities that often make you feel like a kid again, think sledding, ice skating, snow tubing, and building snowmen. Nothing but smiles when you’re flying down a mountain in a gigantic innertube, am I right? Plus, who doesn’t like variety in their choice of exercise: skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, shoveling, etc. Honestly, I’m much more active in winter because when it’s hot outside, I feel sluggish and gross, but when it’s cold, all that generated body heat comes in handy! Winter also offers its own selection of more exotic options like ice climbing, dog-sledding, and snowmobiling – truly so much variety to be had!

The Cold

Okay, so I know the cold is one of the main reasons people don’t like winter, but hear me out. Do you like mosquitos? Of course you don’t. Well, they die in the cold, which is reason enough for me to like it! But more than that, cold weather can be so refreshing! Invigorating, even. Most people sleep better when it’s cold, and cold weather is said to improve heart health, brain function, and metabolic rates, so even if all those winter sports don’t help you out, apparently just being cold every now and then will. I mean, some people pay hundreds of dollars for “cold therapy” or Cryotherapy treatments for better skin, pain relief, and mood enhancement, but winter gives you all those benefits for free! Also, I’d just like to add something pretty much every Canadian has told us: there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. As long as you have the right clothes, you shouldn’t even feel the cold!  

Cozy clothing

And while we’re on the subject of clothes… don’t you just love when you get home and switch your jeans out for sweatpants? Or when you put on your favorite pair of pajamas and hop on the couch? What if you could wear pjs, sweats, and all sorts of soft, comfy items no matter where you’re going? Well, that’s much more feasible in winter given all the outerwear that likely means people will never even see what you have on underneath. I seriously get so excited every year when I get to break out all my cozy clothing: the warm, fuzzy sweaters, the fleecy thermals, my giant sweatpants, and thick, fluffy socks. I’ve definitely never been that excited to put on a pair of shorts or a tank top, and I can’t be the only one either because who feels more comfortable sleeping without a blanket or laying on a hardwood floor without a rug? Only psychopaths, obviously. Comfy is king!

The Holidays

If you’re not on board yet, maybe the holidays will remind you of the magic of winter. Sorry to those of you who grew up in the Southern Hemisphere because holidays like Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year are all infinitely better celebrated in winter, and I feel like the vast majority of holiday media backs me up on this. Imagine singing, “Oh, the weather outside is delightful, but the horde of insects is frightful”. And can you imagine if Home Alone took place in summer? It would totally lose its heart-warming, “appreciate your family” vibe! Plus, what about the horror of putting on a few holiday pounds while also having swim practice and/or trips to the beach to think about. No, absolutely not. The holidays are meant to be spent holed up inside with family and friends eating all the things and not feeling bad about it because, hey, we’re hibernating here!

Comfort foods

And speaking of the food… I just don’t think we’d enjoy all our hearty soups, cheesy casseroles, and warm, freshly baked cookies near as much if it wasn’t winter. The cold, the dark, the challenging weather – all of that is part of why the foods we eat in winter are so comforting! They stick to your ribs, which is something you definitely wouldn’t want if it was hot, sunny, and you were already sweating, right? I mean, who wants to turn on the oven in summer? But when it’s below freezing… yes, please! Winter also gives us a chance to eat different things. We might never have discovered the delight of pumpkin spice or peppermint drinks if the seasons hadn’t changed. Maybe we’d have never looked twice at gourds or lentils if our go-to vegetables were as cheap and plentiful as they are in the warmer months. Think of all the different flavors and nutrients we might have missed out on!

The Dark

Alright, the shorter days are another difficult one for some of you, and I get it, but I think the real culprit here is Daylight Savings Time (let’s save that rant for another time though). For my pro-darkness argument, I’ll start off with the coziness factor again, which for me is generally brought about by early evenings, twinkling lights, and flickering candles. Ahh! In wintertime, my apartment generally gives off calming, resort spa vibes, and I absolutely love it. Another great thing about it getting dark early is we tend to spend more time at home, which isn’t a bad thing. Winter is a great time to catch up on your reading list or clean out your closets or simply stay-in and save money – the sanctuary of your hearth and home is your oyster!  

Hygge

A lot of what I love about winter is a little hard to pin down, but the Danes use the word “hygge” to sum up the comfortable coziness that I keep trying to describe. Hygge is all about taking the time to enjoy life’s little pleasures. The time spent chatting after or between meals, a warm fireplace on a cold night, a hot chocolate enjoyed in bed, listening to the crunching snow as you walk the dog – these are some of the many little joys we often take for granted; however, I find that I can usually pinpoint and enjoy these moments a bit more easily in winter. Maybe it’s the shorter days or the holiday celebrations or even the starkness of winter landscapes, but something about winter allows for a different kind of focus, and it’s one that I absolutely love!

Slow down 

Another great feature of winter is its ability to slow us down. Everything quite literally takes longer in winter: putting on extra layers, driving more carefully, heating up the house or car – it all forces us to slow down, and it’s not just us. Trees and plants go dormant, many animals hibernate, even our pets tend to sleep more in winter, which should be our sign to do the same! Winter is the best (and longest) excuse we have to take our time, enjoy the temporary calm, and just rest. I love to use the dark and the cold to my advantage and simply do less and relax more – something my usual go-go-go self definitely appreciates! The best part of having all the holidays at the beginning of winter is that once they’re over, we still have months left to focus on other things or nothing at all before the warm weather calls our attention elsewhere.  

Reset

And my final, favorite thing about winter… it’s the perfect time to reset. Whether you’re a New-Year-new-you kind of person or just an avid spring cleaner, this season has always been associated with change. If there’s something new you want to try, winter is a great time to do it. The year starts over, the seasons start over, you can start over. Winter is the perfect time to plan ahead, but even if you don’t have any changes or plans you want to make, I find that winter is also a great time for reflection. Take a look back and see how far you’ve come since the previous winter or the winter of 2020, for example – hard to believe that was over 5 years ago now! Regardless of how you feel about the idea of winter, it will keep coming around, so maybe this year, your goal could be to reset any biases you have about this beloved season of mine. :)

So, what do you think? Can you give it another chance? Can you learn to enjoy winter just a bit more than before? I hope so because as the proverb says, choosing not to find joy in the snow/cold simply means having less joy without changing the amount of snow/cold. So find your joy and relish the wonders of winter! Bon hiver à tous!❄️

Marvelous Morocco

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Time seems to be flying as we scramble to catch up after our last whirlwind trip! Last month, we had the absolute privilege of spending almost two weeks in beautiful Morocco. This was our first time to Morocco, and actually our first time in Africa, so we were beyond excited and hyper-focused on doing and seeing as much as we could. To that end, we set out on completing a somewhat ambitious loop from Casablanca to Fes to Merzouga (and the desert) to Marrakesh and finally back to Casablanca. Whew, even typing it all out is a bit much! Anyway, here’s a little recap of what we did and what I would recommend to anyone traveling to Morocco for the first time. 

Casablanca

We didn’t choose to start and end in Casablanca for any reason other than that’s where the cheapest flights from Québec happened to be. But, of course, once we knew we were heading to Casablanca, we promptly watched the 1942 classic! Spoiler alert: modern-day Casablanca is absolutely nothing like the movie. Since we only had a couple of days planned here, we focused on hitting the highlights: Hassan II Mosque, Central Market, the port, Arab League Park etc.

I feel like Casablanca is the sort of city that would be great to live in, but not so great for tourists. It’s the biggest city in Morocco, and we totally felt that as we trekked from site to site. If you are touristing in Casablanca, however, I would definitely recommend Sky 28 bar. It’s at the top of the Kenzi Tower Hotel and gives you amazing views of the city and the coastline. We went at sunset, and it was such a great way to see all that city sprawl!

Another Casablanca recommendation I would readily give is the restaurant Le Cuistot Traditionnel. It might have been our favorite of the trip, mostly because of the amazing Moroccan food and beautiful décor, but also in part because of the amazing owner and chef. He actually used to work for the king of Morocco and had such an amazing collection of photos, mementos, and stories from that time – really such a cool guy and place!

Fes

The next stop on our itinerary was Fes (or Fez), which is one of the oldest cities in Morocco. I think this was the city I was most looking forward to before our trip because I was so excited to experience the medina. The medina refers to some 9,000 streets and alleyways that make up what I can only compare to a massive hedge maze, except these walls are stone, several stories high, and about 800 years old. “Bustling” just isn’t a strong enough word to describe the medina, which is home to approximately 100,000 people, most of whom must be merchants of some sort given the insane number of markets, shops, and stalls!

Walking around the medina was chaotic in the absolute best way. There are souvenirs, snacks, businesses, and historic sites all crammed into the narrowest of spaces, not to mention all the people shopping, taking photos, transporting goods, etc. Unfortunately, Google Maps is almost no help in navigating since the vast majority of the streets in the medina are too small to be on the map. For that reason and so many others, walking around Fes felt a lot like traveling back in time. Of course, eventually you’d spot some stainless-steel water bottles or personalized power banks and instantly be back in the 2020s.

In my opinion, the absolute best thing to do in Fes is to wander. Just walk around, get lost, find your way back again by recognizing some sign or stall, and ultimately soak up the chaos. I also think staying in a dar (a room in a local house) or a riad (an inn) is essential in Fes. Hearing families eating dinner, buying your water at a little window shop, and feeling the warmth of Moroccan hospitality was such a great part of our stay in one of the most unique places we’ve ever been. Oh, and remember to prepare yourself mentally for bargaining at the markets, you absolutely have to have your head in the game for that!  

To/From the Desert

The next part of our trip was a bit out of the ordinary for us. When we were planning everything, we knew we wanted to get out to the dunes, but we weren’t sure the best way to do that. Renting a car our first time on the continent seemed challenging, but doing a multi-day tour had us wary as well. In the end, we decided on a tour that doubled as transportation between two of the cities we wanted to see, and included most meals, tickets to the various sites, and lodging for the two nights. Given how cheap it was and the huge number of different companies and individuals offering something oddly similar, we were a little worried it was all a big scam…

But nope, it was just as amazing as all the reviews said it would be! Of course, I was still very nervous when we hadn’t heard from them by the night before our 7am departure, but once we were put into contact with our driver/guide, Mahmoud, I was completely at ease. He was so skilled at giving us the right amount of time in each place, sharing enough information to keep us interested and entertained, and juggling all the logistical tasks it required to transport 10 foreigners across the country and into the desert for three days and two nights.

It takes 7 hours to get to Merzouga (and the Chebbi dunes) from Fes and another 9 hours to get to Marrakesh, so we covered a lot of ground and a lot of points of interest, including some of my favorite: the monkeys in Ifrane, the Todgha gorge, the random espresso bar van in the middle of nowhere, and the ancient city of Aït Benhaddou. But of course, the highlight of this adventure was our time in the dunes. Riding the camels, watching the sunset and sunrise, sandboarding, a bonfire, drinks shared with new friends, star gazing – it was one of those travel experiences that seems totally unreal, and I can’t recommend it enough.

Marrakesh

Honestly, you’re probably thinking, how could we possibly top what we’d already enjoyed thus far in Morocco, and we were a bit worried about that too, especially since we were told by almost everyone we talked to that Marrakesh was their least favorite city in Morocco. We had heard Marrakesh was noisy and dirty and that the people there were pushy and impatient, etc. Well, I don’t know if we’re just weird, but Marrakesh was our favorite of the cities we visited, pretty much precisely because it was all those things and more! To me, it felt so utterly authentic in its own ancient-trading-center-turned-major-tourist-destination sort of way.

Much like Fes, Marrakesh also has a medina, but it’s actually much larger and thankfully fully mapped on Google Maps (plus one for navigation)! However, the medina in Marrakesh hasn’t banned motorcycles like Fes has, so it was a bit louder and dirtier. Of course, I found that more fun and probably more convenient for locals. We also found the people of Marrakesh to be super likeable! Maybe they seem pushy or impatient to some, but as city-people ourselves, we totally got it. We knew almost instantly that if we ever choose to move to Morocco, Marrakesh is the place for us.

Hopefully, we’ve already done our part in hyping up Marrakesh, but for some more specific recommendations, I’d say first, make sure you walk through Jemaa el-Fnaa (the main square) often and at all times of day. You’ll see so many things you’ve never seen before and might never see anywhere else! But if you don’t like people hawking their goods/services, then I advise you walk with purpose lol. You should also go to a hammam and get scrubbed down. You might feel awkward or unsure, but it won’t last long. Just take it all in and think of the stories you’ll have to tell afterwards. Other highlights for us in Marrakesh were the Marrakesh Museum, MK Rooftop, and basically any supermarket (their Carrefour is *chef’s kiss*).

As is always the case with our trip recap posts, there’s just so much I want to share, but then, I’d really rather you go out there and experience it for yourself! Morocco might seem daunting at first; I know there’s a lot of information online about it (particularly a lot of cautionary tales), but we found it to be a very welcoming place that really puts a lot of effort into making sure tourists are well taken care of! It’s simply marvelous really! Shukran, Maroc – until next time!

Interesting Eats

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

You may have noticed over the years that I love writing about food. So far, I’ve covered the best things we’ve ever eaten and lots of things we’ve discovered about the cuisines of the countries we’ve called home (most recently, Canada), but this month, I thought I’d round up a list of the most interesting things we’ve eaten. You know, just in case you were looking to make your next holiday meal a little more adventurous. Bon appétit! 

Aiyu jelly

One of the first things that came to mind when compiling this list was a strange little snack we first sampled in a Taiwanese night market. Of course, I had to search my Facebook archives to find its true name because in our house, we usually refer to it as “that weird jelly stuff we had in Taiwan”, which isn’t the most flattering description, but to be honest, aiyu jelly is tough to describe! I actually also had to re-google what exactly it is because somehow “a clear, plant-based jelly made from the seeds of the creeping fig plant” just didn’t stick. Overall, super interesting texture (sort of like melty Jell-O), efficient form (slurped through a straw out of a plastic bag), and surprisingly familiar taste (somewhat like an Arnold Palmer).

Alligator nuggets

The next item on this objectively, alphabetized list is something we tried out of pandemic boredom. For almost a year, we found ourselves trapped in central Florida in various states of lockdown with one of our only forms of entertainment being our weekly take-out order. We made it a point to try as many different cuisines as possible within an hour drive of our apartment/bunker, and one of the most interesting meals we had came from a Cajun restaurant. There were all sorts of things I’d never seen or tasted on the menu there, but the most interesting dish had to be the fried alligator nuggets. A bit chewy and absolutely nothing like chicken, I can’t say these were my favorite, but at least I can say I tried them.

Chapulines

Chapulines are toasted grasshoppers and are a popular snack in Mexico and Central America. They’re very crispy and well-seasoned, making them a great street food snack or sometimes even offered as a topping for tacos or tlayudas. I think there’s now a stadium in the US that even serves chapulines at its concession stands, which makes sense because they’re super high in protein, extremely sustainable, and actually pretty tasty so long as you can get past the whole “I’m eating bugs” thing. Regardless, they’re a pretty interesting treat that isn’t as hard to find as you might imagine!

Cream egg stuffed cookies

Interesting has so many connotations. There’s interesting as in “huh, I didn’t know that existed”, interesting as in “hmm, no thanks”, and interesting as in “wow, that’s so cool”. I think the Cadbury cream egg stuffed cookies we came across in Newfoundland definitely falls into that last category. The conception was very interesting, the cross section was incredible, and the taste, exactly as you’d expect: delicious. But I think the most surprising thing was the fact that this unhealthy fusion was found in northeastern Canada and not a state fair in the southern US next to the deep-fried Oreos where it clearly belongs.

Czarnina

The next interesting dish on my list is one I’ve talked about before. It lives rent free in our (and several others’) minds since we accidently tricked a few people into enjoying it with us back when we were blissfully unaware. Czarnina is a dark, fruity soup that is commonly enjoyed in Poland. Its name clearly refers to the color of the soup as “czarny” means “black” in Polish, but I think we assumed it was beets or something equally pigmented that made the soup that color. Of course, it didn’t take us long to realize czarnina is actually made of duck’s blood. Surprisingly sweet and velvety smooth, this is another dish that is really more of a mental hurdle, at least for me. Definitely interesting though!

Dadinhos de tapioca

The newest addition to our interesting foods list, dadinhos (or cubes) of tapioca is a snack we recently tried in Brazil. Crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, often made with added cheese and served with a tangy sauce, they were nothing like the only tapioca dish I had for comparison (tapioca pudding, obviously). In fact, without Google, I’d have been really hard-pressed to tell you what exactly was inside the dadinhos we scarfed down with our afternoon coffee. All I knew was that they tasted good, and that was enough for me!

Frog legs

French cuisine is famous for a reason. Their chefs surely know what they’re doing. With enough butter and garlic, anything tastes good. These are the things I told myself as we worked our way through a plate of frog legs, which look strangely similar to chicken wings by the way. The comparison stops there though, because while their flavor was good, the texture was absolutely nothing like chicken (or any meat that I can remember trying). I’m really not a fan of seafood though, and maybe we were just getting a little too close to the water for my tastes. Anyway, another interesting dish checked off my list. 

Hairy tofu

Honestly, this one almost has to be seen to be believed, and oddly enough, it looks exactly as it sounds…like a block of tofu covered in hair, but in this case, the “hair” is actually a fungus. Okay, I know that doesn’t sound very appetizing, but I love mushrooms and blue cheese, and maybe you do too. Sometimes I think it’s just branding that decides whether foods lean interesting-good or interesting-bad, and unfortunately, the name “hairy tofu” definitely skews bad. In reality, the taste is pretty mild, a lot like a cheese actually, and so incredibly organic, which has to be a plus, right?

Happy pizza

On our very first night in Cambodia, after a long day of travel, we decided to pick up a pizza on the way to the hotel for a relaxing, dinner-in sort of evening. The place we went to was called Happy Pizza, and as Tucker usually does, he got the dish they were proud enough to put their name on. But then they started asking questions about the amount of “happy” we wanted, which definitely threw us off. Turns out, “happy pizza” is pizza with cannabis added among the various toppings. While I can’t say the taste was everything I wanted and more, it was definitely an interesting pizza experience to say the least!  

Hot chocolate with cheese

We had our first hot chocolate served with cheese cubes in Quito, Ecuador, but it’s actually pretty common in Colombia and other South American countries as well. As I deeply love both chocolate and cheese, I was very excited to try this combination; however, my brain just couldn’t compute. Was it sweet or savory? Dessert or salty snack? Drink or food? In the end, we were left saying “that was interesting”, and so it makes the list. I do feel like this one has the potential for a lot of variation though, so we might just need to try again with different chocolates and cheeses.

Huitlacoche

Time for another round of fungi! Huitlacoche is a fungus we encountered regularly while living in Mexico. In fact, it’s so common, they sell it at Walmart! Huitlacoche has a lot of similarities to mushrooms, and you’ll typically find it in the same sorts of dishes: soups, omelets, tacos, etc. Again, I can’t help but think about branding here because a lot of gringos shy away from huitlacoche, but maybe that has less to do with the taste and more to do with the fact that it’s called “corn smut” in English. Or maybe it’s the bulbous-y, blueish-green lobes that turn people off…I guess we’ll never know.   

Pastitsio

Two words: Greek lasagna. Already interested, aren’t you? I can tell you I certainly was after reading the description of pastitsio: pasta, cheese, beef, tomato sauce, cinnamon, clove, and a thick top layer of béchamel. It’s everything I love about lasagna plus a few really interesting additions. After having several versions of this homey dish, I’m not really sure why it hasn’t made it to the top of the Greek food pantheon (with the likes of gyros and spanakopita) because I found it to be much more interesting and easily just as tasty!

Uni (sea urchin)

One of the rarer things we’ve eaten would probably be uni (or sea urchin). It’s a little expensive because, I mean, have you seen the creatures? It doesn’t look there’s much “meat” to be harvested there. But that being said, of all the things I’ve ever eaten from the ocean, for me, this was by far the least offensive. There is absolutely no seafood flavor whatsoever. It’s really more like buttery sea water, which really pushes this one beyond interesting and into bizarre. Sometimes I wonder about the person who first discovered that there were tiny, squishy, edible pieces inside those spiky balls at the bottom of the ocean…

Rainbow corndogs

Japan clearly has a lot of fun with food. If I extended this list, I imagine several more entries would be from Japan, often, like this one, purely for their whimsy. And it doesn’t get much more whimsical than cheesy, rainbow corndogs, does it? As a kid of the 90s, I love me some colorful food (purple ketchup, color-changing milk, etc.), and these corndogs were just as fun! Luckily, they were pretty tasty as well – crispy crust, flaky interior, slappy cheese, even the hotdog paired surprisingly well with the colorful condiments. Overall, a playful take on a fast-food classic.

Yak yogurt

And last but not least, a little dessert in the form of yak yogurt. We had a beautiful bowl of this tart, yet creamy concoction out in Qinghai, one of China’s larger, western provinces. I actually think we had just eaten when we came across these, but they looked so pretty, and there was a line of people eating them on the sidewalk, so we had to have a try. I’m so glad we did too, because they were, as you should be expecting by now, very interesting. It was similar to yogurt, but also not. Maybe like a thicker, sweeter kefir? It actually reminded me more of flan than Yoplait, but however it compares, it was definitely still unexpected and delicious.

And that’s my list! So many interesting finds over the years, and I’m sure there will be plenty more to come! Hope you found something to add to your must-try list, even if only for the experience because honestly, that might just be the best part!

Where to go in México

On By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Of all the places we’ve been, we probably get the most questions about Mexico, which makes sense because Mexico is such a beautiful country, and anyone would be lucky to spend time there. However, I do sometimes get a little sad when people tell me they only plan to visit (and often re-visit) one of the same three places: Cancún, Cabo, or Puerto Vallarta. I mean, to some extent, I get it. Those are the most well-known beach cities in the country, but imagine if someone wanted to see the US, and then just repeatedly visited LA. What about the Grand Canyon? What about New York? What about Yellowstone? Mexico is every bit as diverse as the US, which is why I wanted to highlight some other amazing destinations for anyone who wants to see more of what Mexico has to offer.   

La Paz

First off, we’ll start with my favorite beaches in Mexico. Located on the eastern side of Baja California, La Paz has some of the prettiest seascapes I’ve ever seen (and I’ve seen some stunners). If you’re looking for the most tranquilo place to vacation, this might just be it. La Paz is known for its beautiful sunsets, delicious seafood, and diverse sea life. We swam with the sea lions there, but you can also see whales, rays, and thousands of tropical fish. And if you don’t want to get in the water, there are plenty of catamaran, kayak, and glass-bottom boat options too. There are also nature preserves on either side of the city where you can hike, picnic, sand surf, ride ATVs, and so much more. In short, La Paz deserves more attention.

Chihuahua

When you think of Mexico do you think of steep, red canyons and scenic train rides through the mountains? Well, I do when I think about Chihuahua and its Copper Canyon. This is a part of Mexico that any self-respecting nature-lover would drool over. Chihuahua might be more famous for the dog breed that originated there, but it’s also Mexico’s largest estado and has a vast number of amazing landscapes and exciting activities. Between riding the infamous El Chepe train through the mountains, rappelling down one of the rock faces of the canyon, and standing awestruck at the base of one of Mexico’s tallest waterfalls, I couldn’t believe I had never heard of any of these places prior to living in Mexico!

Monterrey

If sleek cities and big events are more your speed, then Monterrey might be perfect for you! Monterrey is big, modern, and just a short flight away from many major US cities, which is why there’s a lot of international business that takes place here. There’s also one of the coolest stadiums in the world, so if you want to catch a soccer game (or a concert), Monterrey is a great place to do it! And just because it’s a major city doesn’t mean you can’t get your dose of nature while you’re there because the city is surrounded by the beautiful Sierra Madres, giving the city stunning views, but also offering nearby hiking and climbing options. Oh, and be sure to check out the thermal pools while you’re there – simplemente mágico!

San Luis Potosí

Rather than another week at the beach, you could choose to spend your time chasing waterfalls in San Luis Potosí instead. On the eastern side of this state, you’ll find the Huasteca Potosina, which is a region known for its abundance of waterfalls, turquoise rivers, and other unique natural features. There are a ton of itineraries for this part of Mexico because there is so much to see here! I took my parents on a road trip throughout this area, and we had the best time jumping from natural wonder to natural wonder. There aren’t so many large cities out this way, and you’ll definitely feel the jungle vibes, so if you like that kind of adventure, I can’t recommend San Luis Potosí enough.

Guadalajara

Ah, Guadalajara: one of my homes, and easily my favorite place in Mexico. Okay, yes, I’m aware I’m a little biased when it comes to this particular city, but I love it precisely because I know it so well! There’s so much fun to be had in GDL, and the food here is beyond incredible (perhaps only riveled by CDMX). In addition to the amazing city scene, there are several great day trips (less than an hour away) that you can easily fit into your trip as well, namely, Chapala, Tlaquepaque, and Tequila. There might not be a beach, but Chapala lies on a gorgeous lake not so far from the airport. Plus, Mexico’s pueblos mágicos are always fun, and Tlaquepaque and Tequila are two of the best. I mean, who doesn’t want to take a 45-minute all-you-can-drink train tour to the city where tequila was invented?

Querétaro

Another draw of Mexico’s interior is its colonial cities like Querétaro. With its gorgeous architecture, rich history, and cooler temperatures thanks to Central Mexico’s higher elevation – you really can’t go wrong! Querétaro is a picture-perfect city, and it, too, has a plethora of lovely day trip options. One of my favorites was the magic city Bernal, which is home to one of the largest monoliths in the world. Or if you’re a wine-lover, Querétaro is one of Mexico’s most famous wine regions. And if those things don’t draw you in, then maybe the name will because it has got to be the most fun state name to pronounce!

Mexico City (CDMX)

CDMX (or DF if you’re old enough) is La Capital, and rightfully so. Effortlessly cool with more to do than you could ever possibly manage on a vacation, and although I feel a rivalry of sorts due to my love of Guadalajara, even I can’t deny that CDMX is an amazing place to visit. Don’t let the size of the city scare you because that’s what allows you to do and see so much in a single city: massive plazas, gorgeous galleries, and the coolest museums, just to name a few of them. Nearby, you can also see what was the old Aztec capital, Teotihuacan, which will definitely leave an impression as well. Or equally memorable would be a trip out to El Rosario to see where millions of monarch butterflies overwinter every year. Honestly, so many things you can’t see on the beach!

Oaxaca

Or maybe witnessing one of Mexico’s many vibrant festivals like Día de Muertos or Día de la Independencia would be the way to go? Well, for that (and many other reasons) Oaxaca is another excellent choice. Oaxaca is located in southern Mexico, and if you just have to get to a beach (I hope you can hear my eyes roll as I type this) then you’re actually not too far from some of the best in Mexico. But beaches or no beaches, Oaxaca has a lot to offer as well. There’s an amazing mix of indigenous cultures there, which means an abundance of incredible festivals, bustling markets, and traditional food. Oaxaca is also the main producer of mezcal, so you can try just about any variety you can imagine. Definitely a great place for a fiesta!  

Mérida

If you just can’t bear to part from your precious Cancún, then maybe you can at least divide your time between Quintana Roo and Yucatán. Mérida is the capital city of Yucatán, and it’s one of the most beautiful cities in the country. Mayan culture abounds here, and the best of all the Mayan ruins are nearby. If you haven’t seen at least Chichen Itza and Uxmal, then those should be your priority. Make sure you also try all the traditional Yucatán dishes like cochinita pibil, poc chuc, and papadzules. I promise, you will fall in love! And if you do choose to go to Mérida, you’ll only be short drive away from Riviera Maya and all the places that made it famous. Just make sure you save some time for the cenotes (they are far superior to the beach in my book).

Bacalar

Last but not least, I recommend beautiful Bacalar, another of the most peaceful places I’ve even been. Located on a crystal-clear lagoon, Bacalar is closer to Belize than it is to Cancún, but it’s still fairly close to the Caribbean coast. In fact, the lagoon looks a lot like the Caribbean and is famous for its shades of blue. To me, Bacalar is what Tulum was 20 years ago. Mass tourism hasn’t spoiled it yet, and I hope it never does because what makes Bacalar so amazing is its tranquility. If you want to relax in a hammock suspended over gorgeous blue water while a gentle breeze ruffles your hair, Bacalar is waiting.

Of course, these ten places only scratch the surface of what all Mexico has to offer, but I do hope that this gave you some idea as to the massive variety there is to be seen South of the Border. Cancún, Cabo, and Puerto Vallarta are nice in their own ways, but there’s truly so much more to discover!