Time seems to be flying as we scramble to catch up after our last whirlwind trip! Last month, we had the absolute privilege of spending almost two weeks in beautiful Morocco. This was our first time to Morocco, and actually our first time in Africa, so we were beyond excited and hyper-focused on doing and seeing as much as we could. To that end, we set out on completing a somewhat ambitious loop from Casablanca to Fes to Merzouga (and the desert) to Marrakesh and finally back to Casablanca. Whew, even typing it all out is a bit much! Anyway, here’s a little recap of what we did and what I would recommend to anyone traveling to Morocco for the first time.
Casablanca
We didn’t choose to start and end in Casablanca for any reason other than that’s where the cheapest flights from Québec happened to be. But, of course, once we knew we were heading to Casablanca, we promptly watched the 1942 classic! Spoiler alert: modern-day Casablanca is absolutely nothing like the movie. Since we only had a couple of days planned here, we focused on hitting the highlights: Hassan II Mosque, Central Market, the port, Arab League Park etc.
I feel like Casablanca is the sort of city that would be great to live in, but not so great for tourists. It’s the biggest city in Morocco, and we totally felt that as we trekked from site to site. If you are touristing in Casablanca, however, I would definitely recommend Sky 28 bar. It’s at the top of the Kenzi Tower Hotel and gives you amazing views of the city and the coastline. We went at sunset, and it was such a great way to see all that city sprawl!
Another Casablanca recommendation I would readily give is the restaurant Le Cuistot Traditionnel. It might have been our favorite of the trip, mostly because of the amazing Moroccan food and beautiful décor, but also in part because of the amazing owner and chef. He actually used to work for the king of Morocco and had such an amazing collection of photos, mementos, and stories from that time – really such a cool guy and place!
Fes
The next stop on our itinerary was Fes (or Fez), which is one of the oldest cities in Morocco. I think this was the city I was most looking forward to before our trip because I was so excited to experience the medina. The medina refers to some 9,000 streets and alleyways that make up what I can only compare to a massive hedge maze, except these walls are stone, several stories high, and about 800 years old. “Bustling” just isn’t a strong enough word to describe the medina, which is home to approximately 100,000 people, most of whom must be merchants of some sort given the insane number of markets, shops, and stalls!
Walking around the medina was chaotic in the absolute best way. There are souvenirs, snacks, businesses, and historic sites all crammed into the narrowest of spaces, not to mention all the people shopping, taking photos, transporting goods, etc. Unfortunately, Google Maps is almost no help in navigating since the vast majority of the streets in the medina are too small to be on the map. For that reason and so many others, walking around Fes felt a lot like traveling back in time. Of course, eventually you’d spot some stainless-steel water bottles or personalized power banks and instantly be back in the 2020s.
In my opinion, the absolute best thing to do in Fes is to wander. Just walk around, get lost, find your way back again by recognizing some sign or stall, and ultimately soak up the chaos. I also think staying in a dar (a room in a local house) or a riad (an inn) is essential in Fes. Hearing families eating dinner, buying your water at a little window shop, and feeling the warmth of Moroccan hospitality was such a great part of our stay in one of the most unique places we’ve ever been. Oh, and remember to prepare yourself mentally for bargaining at the markets, you absolutely have to have your head in the game for that!
To/From the Desert
The next part of our trip was a bit out of the ordinary for us. When we were planning everything, we knew we wanted to get out to the dunes, but we weren’t sure the best way to do that. Renting a car our first time on the continent seemed challenging, but doing a multi-day tour had us wary as well. In the end, we decided on a tour that doubled as transportation between two of the cities we wanted to see, and included most meals, tickets to the various sites, and lodging for the two nights. Given how cheap it was and the huge number of different companies and individuals offering something oddly similar, we were a little worried it was all a big scam…
But nope, it was just as amazing as all the reviews said it would be! Of course, I was still very nervous when we hadn’t heard from them by the night before out 7am departure, but once we were put into contact with our driver/guide, Mahmoud, I was completely at ease. He was so skilled at giving us the right amount of time in each place, sharing enough information to keep us interested and entertained, and juggling all the logistical tasks it required to transport 10 foreigners across the country and into the desert for three days and two nights.
It takes 7 hours to get to Merzouga (and the Chebbi dunes) from Fes and another 9 hours to get to Marrakesh, so we covered a lot of ground and a lot of points of interest, including some of my favorite: the monkeys in Ifrane, the Todgha gorge, the random espresso bar van in the middle of nowhere, and the ancient city of Aït Benhaddou. But of course, the highlight of this adventure was our time in the dunes. Riding the camels, watching the sunset and sunrise, sandboarding, a bonfire, drinks shared with new friends, star gazing – it was one of those travel experiences that seems totally unreal, and I can’t recommend it enough.
Marrakesh
Honestly, you’re probably thinking, how could we possibly top what we’d already enjoyed thus far in Morocco, and we were a bit worried about that too, especially since we were told by almost everyone we talked to that Marrakesh was their least favorite city in Morocco. We had heard Marrakesh was noisy and dirty and that the people there were pushy and impatient, etc. Well, I don’t know if we’re just weird, but Marrakesh was our favorite of the cities we visited, pretty much precisely because it was all those things and more! To me, it felt so utterly authentic in its own ancient-trading-center-turned-major-tourist-destination sort of way.
Much like Fes, Marrakesh also has a medina, but it’s actually much larger and thankfully fully mapped on Google Maps (plus one for navigation)! However, the medina in Marrakesh hasn’t banned motorcycles like Fes has, so it was a bit louder and dirtier. Of course, I found that more fun and probably more convenient for locals. We also found the people of Marrakesh to be super likeable! Maybe they seem pushy or impatient to some, but as city-people ourselves, we totally got it. We knew almost instantly that if we ever choose to move to Morocco, Marrakesh is the place for us.
Hopefully, we’ve already done our part in hyping up Marrakesh, but for some more specific recommendations, I’d say first, make sure you walk through Jemaa el-Fnaa (the main square) often and at all times of day. You’ll see so many things you’ve never seen before and might never see anywhere else! But if you don’t like people hawking their goods/services, then I advise you walk with purpose lol. You should also go to a hammam and get scrubbed down. You might feel awkward or unsure, but it won’t last long. Just take it all in and think of the stories you’ll have to tell afterwards. Other highlights for us in Marrakesh were the Marrakesh Museum, MK Rooftop, and basically any supermarket (their Carrefour is *chef’s kiss*).
As is always the case with our trip recap posts, there’s just so much I want to share, but then, I’d really rather you go out there and experience it for yourself! Morocco might seem daunting at first; I know there’s a lot of information online about it (particularly a lot of cautionary tales), but we found it to be a very welcoming place that really puts a lot of effort into making sure tourists are well taken care of! It’s simply marvelous really! Shukran, Maroc – until next time!
Language is a funny thing. You never really think about just how many words and phrases there are in any given language (to say nothing of all the grammar features, pronunciation rules, and cultural nuances), but every time I find myself switching to a different daily-use language, I am always inundated with new (or sometimes, forgotten) vocabulary. Even with something like French, which I’ve definitely studied before and which has quite a lot in common with both English and Spanish, there is still SO MUCH to learn (and remember).
So, for this month’s post, I thought I’d share a few of the many entertaining direct translations that are living rent free in my mind now that I’ve gotten back into using français au quotidien. Amusez-vous bien!
Poules en liberté – literal meaning: “hens at liberty” – real meaning: “free run chickens”
This makes me laugh every time I buy eggs because I can’t help but picture chickens reenacting the French Revolution or something. Liberty, Fraternity, Egg-quality!
Nid-de-poule – literal meaning: “hen’s nest” – real meaning: “pothole”
Speaking of cultural nuances, chickens are super engrained in Francophone culture, which is clearly evidenced by the cute French name for this annoying modern-day obstacle.
Jaunes – literal meaning: “yellows” – real meaning: “yolks”
In English, we say “egg whites”, but “egg yellows” sounds ridiculous, non? Well, “yolks” actually comes from an Old English word meaning “yellow”, so maybe we’re the ridiculous ones.
Papillon de nuit – literal meaning: “butterfly of the night” – real meaning: “moth”
Another hauntingly beautiful (and delightfully descriptive) French noun! Of course moths should be called butterflies of the night! That’s exactly what they are, and it sounds très cool.
Porc-épic – meaning: “porcupine” (originally from Greek, meaning “spiny pig”)
Okay, this one is similar in English, but the way it’s written in French makes my franglais brain think “epic pork”, which I think really paints porcupines in a whole new light, don’t you?
Chauve-souris – literal meaning: “bald mouse” – real meaning: “bat”
What I want to know is who hated bats enough to stick them with this completely unfair name for the rest of éternité. I mean, even if you felt really strongly about their baldness and/or mousiness, what about the wings?!
Cerf-volant – literal meaning: “flying deer” – real meaning: “kite”
Another bizarre animal description here because I can’t really see a lot of similarities between kites and deer. What exactly was going on with the kites and deer of early France?
Barbe à papa – literal meaning: “dad’s beard” – real meaning: “cotton candy”
Explaining this to non-French speakers is always a little awkward. I’m aware that “cotton candy” doesn’t sound that appetizing either, but thinking about your father’s beard hair as a snack is just a bit étrange.
Pissenlit – literal meaning: “piss-in-bed” – real meaning: “dandelion”
I absolutely love that this name survived into modern times because what a cool way to learn that dandelions are diuretics!
Cul-de-sac – meaning, well, “cul-de-sac” or “dead end”, but the literal translation is “ass of the bag”
We all know the word “cul-de-sac”, but I bet now you have a whole new visual to associate with it! I love when languages use profanity to make a point.
Nez qui coule – literal meaning: “nose that flows” – real meaning: “runny nose”
This phrase is immediately clear upon first encounter, which I love, but what I now find disappointing is that English missed out on this glorious rhyming opportunity!
Oui, oui, “pouce” can mean either “thumb” or “inch”, but I first learned it as “thumb”; therefore, I now measure TVs in thumbs rather than inches. Honestly, I wish we’d just use centimeters anyway!
Pomme de terre – literal meaning: “apple of the Earth” – real meaning: “potato”
An oldie, but a goodie. This poetic way of naming the most basic of things is what I always associate with French. However, Canada is a bit more efficiency-based, which is why I see “patates” a lot now too.
Pommettes – literal meaning: “little apples” – real meaning: “cheekbones”
Another example of French flair contrasted with English frankness; one of which I love as a linguist, the other, I prefer as a student. Thank God for Google Translate though.
Et c’est tout! I hope you enjoyed these fun little tidbits about some common French and English words! Until next time, à bientôt!
It’s summertime, which can mean only one thing: it’s time for Tucker and Dani to hop on down to the southern hemisphere because one can never have too many winters! Of course, our destination didn’t feel very wintery at all this time because for this trip, we chose to go to beautiful Rio de Janeiro, Brazil! Here’s a recap of what we did, how we did it, and most importantly, a list of the best foods we had while we were there.
Sugarloaf Mountain
The first thing we did after dropping our bags off at the Airbnb was head to Sugarloaf Mountain for a couple of cable car rides and gorgeous views of the city. We opted to take an Uber as we had just arrived and didn’t have much time before sunset, and I think that ended up being a good choice. Ubers are fairly inexpensive and easy to use in Rio, just know that you might have a few cancelations before getting one that sticks. Also, like most major cities, traffic can be…difficult, so be ready for that as well.
Sugarloaf Mountain is a major tourist attraction, so everything was in English, Spanish, and Portuguese, making the ticket-buying process super simple. The cable car rides were quick and efficient, and the views at the top were absolutely breathtaking. But what surprised us most was definitely how much there was to do at the halfway point (Morro da Urca). There are shops, restaurants, a mini-brewery, helicopter rides (for a price, of course), and tons of marmosets to watch! This was our first reminder that we were in a very lush land, full of all sorts of flora and fauna, even in the most populous parts of the city.
Copacabana & Ipanema
Next, we went to the beach, and actually, we found ourselves in and around both Copacabana Beach and Ipanema Beach a lot during the week. The beaches are absolutely massive, and there were so many people swimming, sunbathing, running, eating, drinking, playing games, taking pictures, doing anything and everything it seemed, which makes sense because once you’re on the beach, you’ll want for nothing because there is a constant stream of vendors selling everything from popsicles and steamed corn to bathing suits and hard drugs. Seriously, there was something for everyone!
Copacabana Beach
You can take your time in the sand, or you can walk along the wide, tiled sidewalks literally for miles along all the beaches. There are plenty of beachside cabanas to choose from as well if you want a little treat with a nice view and some shade. And if you don’t feel like walking, there are lots of shared bikes (which can be rented through Uber) or scooters (which have their own app) that you can rent instead, and with as many times as we ended up going to the far ends of the beaches, I was very thankful for those options! The neighborhoods in this part of the city have tons of cafes and restaurants to choose from as well, which were very lively even in the off season. It was actually really hard to narrow down all the choices here!
Centro
Prior to our visit, I was a definitely a little wary of spending a lot of time walking around Rio’s Centro. This part of the city doesn’t exactly have a squeaky-clean reputation, so I was wondering just how rough it would feel. Fortunately, we didn’t have any issues at all, but there were definitely some areas that felt a little less safe than Copacabana or Ipanema. As you always should when traveling, make sure you’re completely aware of your surroundings, and if possible, try to stick to the more populated streets. Safety in numbers (at least in this instance).
Some of my highlights from our day in Centro would be the Santa Teresa tram ride, the Metropolitan Cathedral, and the Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading. I knew I wanted to at least see the old tram, but once we were there, we decided we might as well take the ride even though we had no idea where it was going, and I am SO glad we did because it was an incredible (round)trip through the heart of the city. The Metropolitan Cathedral is essentially the center of Centro, so you can’t miss it. Definitely check out the inside too though because it’s one of the most unique churches I’ve ever seen. And the Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading was also just spectacular! I mean, free entry and tons of books? How could you go wrong?
Metropolitan CathedralRoyal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading
Christ the Redeemer
And finally, the symbol of Rio: Cristo Redentor (or Christ the Redeemer). For this particular sight, we had actually bought tickets for the scenic train ride up and down, but we had to choose a day at random, and when that day came, it was stormy. Needless to say, there would be no view of the city nor of Cristo himself as he was well and fully in the clouds that day. Luckily, they let us change our date and time, which still felt like a bit of a gamble, but the second time, it worked out for us. I would still recommend buying the tickets in advance though, because when we did show up on that sunny day, the line for buying tickets was hours long.
The train ride was nowhere near as nice as the Santa Teresa tram, so now you know which to skip if it comes down to it. You can also get up to the statue by van or by walking (although some people advise not to walk due to some sketchy areas). I also wouldn’t allot a ton of time for this particular activity because there’s not a whole lot of space up at the top, and once you get your selfie with Jesus, there’s not much to do besides wait in line to go back down. All that to say, I’m still super glad we got to see this New World Wonder up close and in person because it truly is a wonder.
Cristo Redentor
The Food
And now, everyone’s favorite part! Here’s a list of the foods we made sure to try while in Rio:
Açaí na tigela (a frozen açaí smoothie snack)
Baião de dois (a rice and beans dish from the northeast region of Brazil)
Cassava croquettes
Bob’s (Brazil’s most popular fast-food joint)
Brigadeiro (chocolate sprinkle-covered truffle)
Cassava croquettes (croquettes made from cassava)
Churrasco (an assortment of grilled meats)
Coxinha (a fried dumpling of sorts, similar to a croquette)
Feijoada
Empanadas (no explanation needed)
Farofa (toasted cassava powder)
Feijoada (bean stew)
Pão de queijo (baked cheese balls)
Pastel de Belem (egg/custard tart)
Picanha (steak)
Tapioca crêpe (crêpe made of tapioca flour)
Tapioca dadinhos (delicious little cubes of fried tapioca and parmesan cheese)
And because I can’t leave it off this post entirely, you should also try a caipirinha (or four) when in Brazil. The caipirinha is the country’s signature cocktail and is made with a sugarcane liquor called cachaça and the fruit of your choice. For what it’s worth, I think the traditional lime is BY FAR the best option.
So, who’s ready to go to Brazil now? I know we’re eager to go back already! Rio was so much fun, but Brazil is a huge country with so much to offer! I hope we’ll be saying “bom dia” again before too long! Until then, I’ll just keep dreaming of all that delicious food!
As we settle into our new home, I’ve been busy reading and learning all I can about Québec City and its history. Honestly, I’ve become a little obsessed because there are just so many interesting stories and details, which I’m very excited to share. And since I learned a lot of this information through various walking tours, I decided to organize this into a sort of virtual walking tour for anyone to enjoy! On y va!
Stop 1: Parc des Gouverneurs
I want to start our little tour at the Parc des Gouverneurs, which sits right next to the famous Château Frontenac and has a beautiful view of the Saint Lawrence River. I think this is a great place to begin because from here you can see both sides of the river and Île d’Olréans, which is the official start of one of the largest estuaries in the world. An estuary is where a river turns into an ocean, and this particular narrowing is precisely why Québec City is where it is, and it’s also how the city (and the province) got its name. Québec means “where the river narrows” in Algonquin.
Partly due to its location, Québec City has played an important role in the history of North America. Founded in 1608, it was the first permanent settlement of what was then New France, and like many of Canada’s first cities, it started as a trading center. However, its strategic position and striking natural features are what prompted early explorers and settlers (first Cartier and then Champlain) to develop the area. Cartier couldn’t quite handle the harsh winters here, so he came and went a few times, but it was Samuel de Champlain who decided to buckle down and make Québec City a home.
Along with a small group of initial settlers, Champlain built the first habitation in Québec and quickly became known as the Father of New France, which is why his face is everywhere around the city. Well, not his face exactly. Apparently, Champlain never actually had a portrait done, so we don’t know what he looked like, and when the city started putting up statues of him, they had to just go with another noble-looking French guy instead. So, in all the artwork, statues, and history books, the man you’re looking at is not Champlain, but at least they stayed consistent with the image.
Stop 2: École des Ursulines
Our next stop is the École des Ursulines, which began as a monastery that was founded in 1639, making it the oldest educational institution for women in North America. One of the founders was Marie Guyart (aka Marie de I’Incarnation), a French widow turned nun, who came to Québec to educate young girls in the new colony. Because she had been married before and still had a son in France, she wrote thousands of letters about daily life in New France, the indigenous people of the region, and many other events that historians are still pouring over. For her contributions, she has been memorialized across the city and beyond.
Québec City (and all of its early inhabitants) really saw a lot of important events unfold in what was a fairly turbulent time for North America. Québec City sits on a 300ft cape situated at the narrowest point of a difficult-to-navigate river, meaning it was pretty intimidating even before all the fortifications, which is likely why there have only been a handful of battles fought here. The first battle is one of the most famous (and interesting) because it was won with a bit of psychological warfare. Louis de Baude de Frontenac, the Governor General at the time (1690), gave the iconic “I’ll answer the with the mouths of my cannons” line after blind-folding and tricking a scout into thinking Québec was much more battle-ready than it actually was.
Another famous battle took place here in 1759: the Battle of the Plains of Abraham, which is essentially how the British ended up with all of Canada. Interestingly, although the British won the battle, the generals on both sides, Wolfe (EN) and Montcalm (FR) are still well-represented throughout the city. Also, of interest is the fact that Montcalm’s remains were actually found beneath the floors of the École des Ursulines somewhat recently (2001) because one of the nuns ended up sharing that little piece of history on her deathbed. What a way to go out!
Stop 3: St-Louis Gate
Next, we’ll take a stroll over to the St-Louis Gate, one of the oldest gates in the city. The St-Louis Gate stretches over rue St-Louis, which was one of the first roads in Québec City as it led directly to Fort St-Louis, Champlain’s (and later several other Québec leaders’) official residence. The fortifications around all the city gates weren’t actually completed until a bit later, and the city wasn’t 100% walled-in until after 1820 when British troops finished the job. It was quite a job, too, because the walls stretch over 4.6kms (2.9mi). At one point, there were over 300 cannons lining the walls, which definitely added to Québec’s image as a hard-to-conquer city.
Of course, eventually, the wars ended and things settled down in North America, and Quebecers had to decide what they wanted to do with their fort of a city. Many wanted to tear down the walls and start over with more of an open-concept. However, another Governor General, Lord Dufferin, had a different idea. He had traveled extensively and knew that Québec’s walls were an architectural jewel that needed to be preserved, and thankfully, he was able to persuade everyone else. By preserving the fortifications, enlarging the city gates, and building a massive public boardwalk, Lord Dufferin ensured Québec City would be welcoming tourists long after he was gone.
The city’s infamous walls encircle what is now known as Vieux Québec (Old Québec), and in 1985, this section of the city became a UNESCO World Heritage site, meaning it’s now protected by international law. Lord Dufferin would be happy. However, life goes on and cities grow; therefore, there are a lot of important places outside the walls now too, including the Parliament Building of Québec, which was built in the late 1800s and was inspired by the Louvre – a somewhat obvious nod to France as opposed to Britain. Old habits die hard it seems.
Stop 4: Overlook at St-Jean
Another important part of the city that technically lies outside the fortifications is Basse-Ville (or Lowertown). This part of the city is important for many reasons, one of which is the fact that I live here. 😊 But I’m not the only one! La Basse-Ville was, historically, where the average Quebecers lived, the working-class people, and Haute-Ville (or Uppertown), which is now known as Vieux Québec, was where the upper classes lived: governors, doctors, lawyers, etc. Funny how it still sort of works like that, non? I can attest Basse-Ville is definitely cheaper than Haute-Ville.
And nothing makes me feel the socio-economical difference more than when I have to make the trek up to Vieux Québec. Cape Diamant was great for battles and enemy intimidation, but it’s also tough on the knees! There are approximately 30 staircases throughout the city connecting Basse-Ville to Haute-Ville. Our closest staircase is Lépine, which has 118 stairs going straight up the cliff. Perhaps the most famous staircase though would be Casse-Cou (or “Breakneck”). It’s located in the oldest part of Basse-Ville, and has a bit of a rough history. The stairs, much like the neighborhood itself, were often in disrepair and led to many accidents, thus the name.
Interestingly, you’ll see a lot of buildings high-up on the cape, but you won’t see so many high buildings in general in Québec City. That’s because the two skyscrapers that were built in the Old Town really ticked off the locals at the time, forcing them to enact a law banning any buildings over 7 stories tall. The two buildings in question were allowed to stay, however. One is the Price Building (1929) which was originally a lumber firm’s headquarters, but now houses the Premier of Québec, and the other is an addition to Hôtel-Dieu de Québec (a teaching hospital), which obviously had good intentions, but was really quite ugly.
Stop 5: Morrin Centre
Now onto a few buildings that are anything but ugly, starting with the Morrin Centre. This building has quite a varied history and is so well-hidden in the heart of the city that I might never have known about it if not for the walking tours. It was originally the city’s prison, and despite its stately appearance, you can still pretty easily see where the bars were attached to the windows. Unfortunately, it wasn’t long before the city needed a larger prison (which was built on the Plains of Abraham and is now an art gallery), so the Morrin Centre became an English college. Today, it still functions as an English library and cultural center that has fun events like Victorian-style teatimes and summer reading clubs.
Right next to the Morrin Centre/English library is an old church turned French library, Maison de la Littérature. I absolutely love the relationship between English and French here in Canada, but particularly in Québec, it never ceases to amaze me! Early on in my studies of Canadian history I wondered how Québec remained so French given the fact that the English took over in the 1700s. Surprisingly, it’s because of the US. The British during that time were so afraid the French would swap sides and join the Americans that they signed the Québec Act ensuring Québec could keep their language and local laws as long as they wouldn’t fight against them. Well, they never did and have kept their French-ness ever since.
The Morrin Centre and Maison de la Littérature are great examples of something Québec City has done amazingly well time and time again: historical site conversion. It seems there’s not a building around that doesn’t have an extensive and diverse history, which is why I keep reading every sign and every plaque I come across. There’s a museum that used to be the old city vault, a private club that was once a military barracks, and pretty much every restaurant downtown was someone’s house at some point. 400+ years is a long time for social institutions, but not so long for buildings.
Stop 6: Notre-Dame
Next stop: church. La Notre-Dame de Québec to be exact. While not the oldest church in the city (we’ll get there soon), Notre-Dame de Québec has its fair share of interesting stories and facts as well. First, it has burned down and been rebuilt three times since its original 1647 construction date, which is pretty impressive in and of itself. You might also notice that there’s only one completed bell tower giving the church a unique, asymmetrical look. Well, that was actually due to a miscalculation on the architect’s part, which resulted in it being deemed unsafe to finish. Oopsies!
And while it might not have all its intended bell towers, it does have something super rare: a Holy Door. There are only a handful of Holy Doors in the world, the vast majority of which being in Italy, so this one (the only one in the Americas) is quite special. What is a Holy Door you ask? Well, I’m not quite sure. It’s only opened on jubilees, so I’ll have to wait a number of years for the chance to walk through it and experience its power myself. What I can say is that, currently, it’s sealed very much like the Pope’s door during the Conclave, which is still pretty cool to see.
While we’re on the topic of the city’s religious history, we should also take a look at the Séminaire de Québec, which is right next door to Notre-Dame. The Seminary of Québec is often touted as the oldest educational institution in Canada, and its buildings still house several schools today, including many departments of L’Université de Laval, the first French-language university in North America and the oldest university in Canada. You’ll see and hear the name Laval quite often in Québec because he was New France’s first bishop.
Stop 7: Château Frontenac
It’s finally time for the structure that dominates pretty much any photo of Québec City, Le Château Frontenac! Earlier, I mentioned Fort St-Louis as one of the first buildings in the city (aka Champlain’s home). Well, the Château Frontenac and Lord Dufferin’s boardwalk are actually sitting on top of the ruins of Fort St-Louis. In fact, you can see quite a bit of them on display beneath the boardwalk. Also, on the boardwalk is a massive statue of Champlain (but not his face, remember). Two other interesting facts about this statue: one, it was actually designed by an architect who survived the Titanic, and two, the base is made of the same stone as that of the Arc de Triomphe – connections to France abound!
The Château Frontenac itself wasn’t built until 1893, and despite the name, it isn’t actually a castle. It was built as a hotel, and that’s what it’s always been. Like the Château Laurier in Ottawa, it’s one of the Pacific Railway Hotels, which are all incredible pieces of architecture spread across the whole of Canada. Another interesting fact about the Château Frontenac is that the main tower, arguably its most distinguishing feature, was an afterthought, added in 1924. The hotel has actually had a lot of work done over the years, including the addition of a pool and fitness center, which was done solely to maintain its coveted 5-Star status.
As you can imagine, many famous people have graced the halls of this amazing building: Queen Elizabeth, Winston Churchill, FDR, Princess Grace of Monaco, Charlie Chaplin, Céline Dion, Paul McCartney, and Leonardo DiCaprio, just to name a few. There are 610 rooms/suites in the hotel, and thanks to some progressively-minded designers, there is no hierarchy to the placement of the various rooms and suites. You could book their cheapest room and end up on the top floor with a view of the St-Lawrence. Of course, even the cheapest room is still around $300, but still.
Stop 8: Montmorency Park
Walking down one of the many staircases in the city, we cross Prescott Gate and come to a stop in Montmorency Park. Now a beautiful park somewhat between Basse-Ville and Haute-Ville, Montmorency was first a farm. Actually, the first farm in New France, created by two of the early settlers: Louis Hébert and Marie Rollet. They were one of the first pioneer families in Canada and have come to represent a lot of the early values of the region: perseverance, adaptability, amity, etc. Across from the park, you can see (and smell) Mary’s popcorn, which I think is a lovely connection between the region’s entrepreneurs, both past and present.
As the farm gave way to modern building projects, Montmorency later became the site of one of the first parliament buildings of the United Provinces of Canada. In 1864, the British North America Act, a founding document of modern-day Canada, was actually drafted there. Unfortunately, a fire destroyed the building in 1883, which is when the city decided to move Parliament outside the Old Town (for safety reasons, of course).
From Montmorency Park, you can also see the Casse-Cou stairs, which take you down into Quartier Petit-Champlain. This is the neighborhood I mentioned earlier that has a bit of a rough history. Basse-Ville was where the working class lived, and so there was never a lot of money there. But there has always been an entrepreneurial spirit! Petit-Champlain is often sited as the continent’s first commercial district, and when you look down its bustling streets lined with business after business, that’s really easy to believe.
Stop 9: Place Royale
But the heart of Basse-Ville has to be Place Royale (or Royal Plaza). This was where the first settlers stepped off the boat and began their lives as a new colony. The first permanent buildings were built on this square along with the first church. You can still see the foundation stones for the second habitation among the cobblestones of the square. Also in the square, stands a bust of King Louis XIV, and although it isn’t the same bust from the 1600s, there has almost always been a bust in that exact spot, forever linking the histories of Québec and France.
Interestingly, the king never actually stepped foot in Québec even though he was the lawful ruler, but he did manage to help the colony from afar. In the early days, the colony struggled with population issues. In particular, not enough women were there to ensure the desired population growth, so King Louis started a program where he would give a dowry and land to any females willing to journey to New France and start a family. Usually, these were orphans or widows who felt that this was their best option for a stable future, and so they became known as the King’s Daughters.
The King’s Daughters made up such a large percentage of the early population in Québec that many North American celebrities have been able to trace their lineage back to one of the daughters: Hilary Clinton, Madonna, Angelina Jolie, and Tom Bergeron being among them. Honestly, Québec City has a lot of ties to various celebrities. Since the city basically looks like a movie set and also has the practical, money-saving advantage of being on the same continent as Hollywood, many movies that take place in Europe are actually filmed here. Alfred Hitchcock’s “I Confess!” and Steven Spielberg’s “Catch Me If You Can”, for example.
Stop 10: Royal Battery
And now we’ve come to the last stop on this (maybe not-so-little) tour. The Royal Battery is the end of the line so to say. It’s where the city meets the river. Here you can see the ferry that travels across the St-Lawrence to Lévis, the often-forgotten little brother of Québec City. You can also find fishing expeditions or whale watching tours departing from these quays; this is where the river turns to ocean after all. When there’s no ice in the water, you might also see cruise ships and yachts docking at the Old Port, which I like to imagine is just as exciting as when Champlain and other early explorers rolled up in their ships.
From the Royal Battery, it’s easy to imagine how tough it would have been to take Québec City by sea. The British only managed a win because they fought on the Plains of Abraham (flat ground beyond the walls of the city). During the Revolutionary War, Generals Benedict Arnold and Richard Montgomery thought they’d give it a shot with the Siege of Québec, but it went very badly for them, and no one has tried since. Thus, Québec City gets to keep its impressive win/loss record.
Near the battery, you’ll also find the funicular, which leads back up to Haute-Ville, where we started this adventure. The funicular entrance is located in a house that dates back to 1682 and used to belong to Louis Jolliet, another famous North American explorer you might have heard of. Really everywhere you look in Québec City there’s another piece of the gigantic puzzle that is our history just waiting to fit into place. One of Québec City’s nicknames is The Old Capital, but I see it more as an entryway. Here you can enter North America, but you can also enter the annals of history. Hope you enjoyed the journey!
Over the years, I have developed a huge admiration for murals. At first, I saw them as purely decorative, something colorful to brighten up a dull corner of any given city, but the more time I spent in different cities, the more I amassed a photographic collection of their murals, and that’s when I started to notice different themes emerging. Whether the artists were telling a story, alluding to history or social issues, or just having fun, as a collective, murals seem to embody the culture around them. Here are a few of my favorite examples from some of my favorite cities:
Québec City
Québec is still new to me, but upon my first observations, I’d say Québec is proud. This city is proud of its unique history, its industrious people, and even its imperfections.
Ottawa, Canada
Ottawa is inclusive. This capital city is basically a microcosm of Canada’s Mosaic – there’s a little something from everyone on display here.
Guadalajara, México
Guadalajara is vibrant. This city, and much of the country really, is so alive and so fun, and that is immediately evident in its street art.
Orlando, Florida
Orlando is colorful. The people here are about as colorful as they come, and all those different cultures and backgrounds come together to make the beautiful rainbow that is Orlando.
Hefei, China
Hefei is prudent. This is a place where art and function collide. Like the city and its inhabitants, the art here is generally purposeful as well as captivating.
Łódź, Poland
Łódź is quirky. The dark events of its past are evident, but the people here are experts at remembering the past while still enjoying the present.
Of course, it’s easier to see these patterns and make these connections when living in the heart of a city, experiencing the culture day after day. But I think if you look carefully, you can pick up the vibes of any city from even just a glance at its art. Here are some more examples of murals that I think capture the spirit of their homes.
Athens, Greece
Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Bogotá, Colombia
Cancún, México
Denver, Colorado
Hong Kong
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Montevideo, Uruguay
Paris, France
Pisa, Italy
Quito, Ecuador
Reykjavík, Iceland
Singapore
Tampa, Florida
Tokyo, Japan
Toronto, Canada
Townsville, Queensland, Australia
So, what do you think? Do the murals match the vibes?
We did it! We took a 4-day trip to Yellowknife, Northwest Territories in February with only a backpack each and the clothes on our backs. Did people question our decision? Yes. Did our friends and family worry about us when checking the weather? Yes. Would we do it all again? Gladly! Yellowknife exceeded every expectation we had for it, and in this month’s post, I’m going to share some of what surprised us so much about this city in the far north of Canada.
The Remoteness
The first surprise actually came when we took a closer look at our flight times. Of course, we know Canada is huge, but we weren’t flying from end to end, more like from east middle to north middle. Regardless, we were in the air for over 7 hours to get from Ottawa to Yellowknife. It would have been faster to fly to Europe! We also flew in on a prop plane, which was another indication that we weren’t headed to a super populous place. And when we looked out the windows of that prop plane and saw literally nothing from Edmonton to Yellowknife (roughly 1,500 km), the message really sank in: we were in the middle of a vastness I’m not sure we’ve ever experienced before.
While we did end up feeling very isolated at first, the longer we were in Yellowknife, the more it felt like, well, Canada. We stopped by a Shopper’s Drug Mart, we got President’s Choice brand snacks, and we still had français to read on all the signage. We were also surprised that the prices of things weren’t as high as we had thought. We had been sure we’d see a crazy increase on all the groceries and food stuffs that had to be shipped in from beyond far away, but it really wasn’t too bad. There were definitely limited options, but overall, not too different from a similar sized city in Ontario or Quebec. The only thing that really stuck out as being outrageously priced was any beer outside of NWT Brewing Co. At one restaurant, we saw $14 Heinekens! Talk about not worth it…
The Cold
We specifically chose to go to Yellowknife in winter because we like the cold, and we wanted to experience the extreme cold of the Canadian hinterland. For weeks ahead of our trip, we tracked Yellowknife’s weather, so we could be as prepared as possible. We had already been to places like Bergen, Norway and Ushuaia, Argentina in their respective cold seasons, and we took those trips without boots or proper winter coats, so all things considered, we were absolutely better equipped for this trip than any that came before it. But did that really matter when we were standing outside in “feels like” -50°F? Not so much lol. We had actually heard several times, from several different people that after you get below -30 or so, it all just feels cold. However, I very much beg to differ; -40 definitely felt much colder than -30.
FahrenheitCelcius
Fortunately, some things did come back to us when dealing with the extreme cold. We remembered the feeling of our eyelashes and nose hairs freezing. We quickly remembered the importance of breathing through your nose only. And once again, we fell back on the age-old lesson: you get what you pay for. Our $30 thermal socks have probably saved a few toes at this point. If I could give any advice to future Canadians or fellow cold weather travelers, you’re absolutely better off buying the expensive gear from the start – it’s expensive because it’s truly the only thing that works.
We learned some new things during our time in Yellowknife as well though. It seems we do, in fact, fear the cold a lot more than the average NWT visitor (let alone resident/native). We opted to take the car pretty much any time we left after dark, mostly because that scene in “To Build a Fire” constantly replayed in our heads every time we took off our gloves! Also, you absolutely cannot function with glasses outdoors in Yellowknife, and even if you don’t need glasses, the cold weather can still really mess with your eyes. Our eyes struggled big time with the cold, the dryness, the ice crystals, the snow blindness, etc. It really felt like everything was out to hurt our eyes in Yellowknife!
The Lights
We have been super lucky with our northern lights sightings in Canada so far. Last May there was a big solar storm, and we actually saw them just about an hour north of Ottawa, so for this trip, we had our fingers crossed, but there wasn’t much pressure on the situation. And maybe that was key, because three of our four nights were full of gorgeous light shows. The colors were so much more vibrant and watching the lights spread out across such an expansive sky was absolutely incredible. Something we didn’t even know to account for in Ottawa were all the mountains and trees that would occasionally block our view of the lights, but we didn’t have that problem when standing on a massive frozen lake!
And just in case I never get around to writing anything about northern lights viewings in general, there are a few things I would have liked to know beforehand. 1) You must let your eyes adjust to the lights. They seem faint at first, but the more you watch, the clearer they become. 2) They move really quickly across the sky and make all sorts of crazy shapes. 3) There is no “peak time” so to say. They’re somewhat like storm clouds; they appear and disappear based on solar activity, so any forecasts are bound to be unreliable at best. 4) The darker it is, the brighter the lights appear, but neither the darkness nor the intensity matter if it’s cloudy, so if you’re hunting northern lights, pick a place known for having an abundance of clear nights. 5) Pictures simply can’t do the lights justice, not even those that have clearly been altered.
The Dettah Ice Road
One of the most surprising experiences of this trip was our time on the Dettah Ice Road. When doing some research on Yellowknife, I came across the Dettah Ice Road listed as a tourist attraction and thought it sounded cool, but actually experiencing it and realizing that it’s not really a tourist attraction at all put it at the top of my list of reasons to visit Yellowknife in winter. The Dettah ice road is exactly what it sounds like: a road made of ice that leads to Dettah, a village southeast of Yellowknife. Usually, you have to drive about 27 km (17 miles) around Yellowknife Bay to get to Dettah, but in winter, since the Great Slave Lake completely freezes over, you can cut right across the bay and drive straight there (only 6.5 km/4 miles). The road itself is amazing! It looks like it’d be slippery or somehow feel different from a normal road, but no, it was business as usual driving across. Well, except for the blinding sun reflecting off the ice and all the cool photo ops along the way. Another incredible thing to experience!
The Yellowknives Dene
As part of our on-going comparison between Canada’s provinces and territories, we were excited to see the influence of the various indigenous groups of Yellowknife as well. Like a lot of Canadian cities, the name Yellowknife comes from a name given to a specific First Nations group, but unlike other Canadian cities, that First Nations group still makes up a considerable portion of the city’s population. Interestingly, the “city” of Yellowknife didn’t really exist until the gold rush of 1934, but the Yellowknives Dene had been settled there for hundreds of years; therefore, the majority of the region’s history revolves around these indigenous groups and how they helped outsiders acclimate to the extremes of the Northwest Territories. Today, their influence can easily be seen in the government, language, and culture of the region.
The Variety
When I shared our Yellowknife photos on social media, there were so many people who said things like “better you than me” or “too cold for me”, but I think the extremes are part of what makes Yellowknife such an intriguing destination. It was perfect for us, cold-loving freaks, but if you visit in August, you could be swimming in the lake rather than driving across it. The variety of activities Yellowknife has to offer is absolutely amazing, and that’s in each and every season. It’s not too often that Tucker and I make it back to a destination (at least not without many years in between), but Yellowknife might just be one we HAVE to see in another season. It also compelled me to move Whitehorse and Iqaluit (the capitals of the other two Canadian territories) up on our to-visit list, so stay tuned!
This was definitely a trip to remember, and for that, all I can say is a huge thank you to Yellowknife for treating us so well and an additional shoutout to all the winter gear we’ve been collecting over the last two years – it really came in clutch here!
When we first started looking into Canadian cities and where we might want to live, we were a little surprised to find that Ottawa has a reputation for being boring. In fact, one of its less-flattering nicknames is The City Fun Forgot, but over the two years we’ve lived here, I can honestly say I don’t get that at all! There is SO MUCH to do in and around Ottawa, and in order to do my part in shifting this perception, this month, I’ve made a list highlighting just some of the fun you can have in Canada’s capital city.
Food & Drink-related Activities
First up has to be food, right? In a city this diverse, of course there are tons of options. In our neighborhood alone we have not one, not two, but three amazing African grills, several French bistros, at least three fantastic Chinese noodle spots, a couple of taco windows, and more shawarma restaurants than pretty much anywhere else on the continent. But of course, there are plenty of drinks to be had as well! Here are just a few of my many, many food and drink-related suggestions for Ottawa:
Charcuterie at Prohibition
Try several of the city’s amazing restaurants. Some of our favorites include Sammi & Soupe Dumpling, Prohibition Public House, Metropolitain Brasserie, The King Eddy, and Bistro Coqlicorne.
Grab a drink at a local brewery or pub. Our absolute favorites are Brigid’s (which is located in the basement a beautiful old church), Spark Pizza, Overflow Brewing Company, D’Arcy McGee’s, and Mill Street Brew Pub.
Meet new people while on a Thursty Pedaler or Palapa Tour.
See the sights and share a snack or drink on a canal cruise.
Feel fancy (and productive) at a cocktail-making class.
Outdoorsy Activities
Canada, in general, is known for its great outdoors. Even in the city, there are tons of outdoor adventures you can have, and if you’re willing to drive (or ride) just a little outside of the city, these options truly multiply. Here are some of the most famous (and fun) outdoor activities you can do in and around Ottawa:
Drive, bike, or walk around Gatineau Park.
Complete a ropes course or simply zip-line from Ontario to Quebec.
Go skiing or snowboarding at one of five resorts all within an hour of downtown Ottawa.
Get out on the water (i.e. go rafting, kayaking, paddle boarding, sailing, skating, swimming, something!)
Take a hike. In the city, we love the Rideau River Trail, the Rockcliffe Rockeries, and Hog’s Back Park. Outside the city, it’s tough to beat Eagle’s Nest in Calabogie, but there are plenty of other, even closer trails that rival it.
Cultural Activities
If adventure sports aren’t really your thing, maybe you’d prefer to do something a little more cultural. Ottawa has you covered there as well. Ottawa has the most museums of any Canadian city, and as the country’s capital, there are more festivals, exhibits, shows, and other amazing events rolling through here than anyone could ever hope to keep up with! Here’s a quick look at some of the more cultural things you can do:
Enjoying Winterlude 2024
Attend a festival, such as Winterlude, the Tulip Festival, Bluesfest, Capital Pride, or any of the other countless festivals that are now synonymous with Ottawa. There’s actually a whole Wikipedia page dedicated to Ottawa’s Festivals, check it out!
Visit a museum or gallery. Our favorites are the National Gallery of Canada, the Canadian Museum of History, and the Canadian Museum of Nature, and the best part is these and many of the other larger museums/galleries have free admission hours each week.
Watch a live Art Battle.
Do some crafts or else buy some at one of the many local markets.
Participate in a community event. If you find a place you like in Ottawa, follow them on social media, and I guarantee at some point they’ll share an event that interests you. This is how we found ourselves eating pierogi and making pisanki at Wedel in Westboro last Easter.
Game-like Activities
If you know me, you know I love games, and luckily, we’ve found a plethora of game-like activities in Ottawa as well. One of the many upsides to long winters is that people have to get more creative with their indoor time, and that is super obvious when it comes to indoor entertainment in Ottawa. Here are some of our favorite things to do when we want to play (or watch others play):
We ❤️ pub trivia!
See how much you know at pub trivia.
Escape from one of the many escape rooms in the city. I personally love Escape Manor because they have a super cool speakeasy-type bar and other fun games and activities like bocce ball and interactive darts.
Play one of the thousands of games (both tabletop and video) that they have at Level One Game Pub.
Watch a sports game. Extra points if you support the Ottawa Senators, Redblacks, or Titans because we do too!
Enjoy a round of Bingo or two.
Just-plain-fun Activities
If you’ve already had your fill of all the food/drink, outdoorsy, cultural, and game-like activities on offer, might I suggest a few more things that might not fit neatly into one of those categories, but are still so much fun to do in and around Ottawa:
Head to a sugar shack for an incredibly unique Canadian experience.
Relax at a nature spa.
Drive through Park Omega.
Interact with a movie at Bytowne Cinema. Drunken Cinema Night is so much fun, but they also have High Tea Sundays, Sing-a-longs, Sleep-overs, and other fun events every month!
Take a free city walking tour or a DIY city murals tour.
I hope this is enough to prove to anyone that Ottawa is absolutely NOT boring. But if you still have doubts, I invite you here to see for yourself. I promise, you won’t regret it!
Ah, December. The pinnacle of the holiday season, the last month of the year, and the official start of winter – yay! Last winter was our first in Canada, and we gleaned so much information. For example, we know that the first snow Ottawa had last year was on October 30th, and the last snow of the season was on April 24th. The coldest day was January 19th at -20°C (approximately -5°F), but overall, it was really a very mild winter. I, personally, hope this year we get a lot more snow and a much longer stretch of extremely low temperatures. How else will I put all our new northern climate knowledge to the test? Knowledge like:
Preparation is Key
One of the first surprises we encountered last winter was just how much preparation both the city and its inhabitants have to do before winter. Everyone started putting out salt chests and snow markers well before the first snowstorm. Businesses added tents and flaps to entranceways; boot trays and coat racks were everywhere, and we even saw insulated porta-potties at nearby construction sites. For our part, we were focused on acquiring all the right winter clothing, which I’m happy to say was well worth whatever we paid for it all! We also had to buy quite a few car accessories, such as shovels, scrapers, sand, winter tires, and non-freezing windshield wiper fluid. This time around, it has been less buying and more restocking, but still, the preparation really makes for a smoother transition.
Probably still quite cold…These things are everywhere!Time for the seasonal tire switchNow we have quite the collectionGreat for keeping the salt and any Amazon packages dry lol
Everything Takes a Little Longer
So many layers!
Even after all the preparation was taken care of, we were still surprised by how much longer literally everything takes in winter! Getting dressed, lacing up boots multiple times a day, warming up the car, walking carefully on the ice – it all adds up like we couldn’t believe! Maybe this year I’ll time how long it takes to get the three of us dressed and ready to go outside because I’d guess it’s an extra 10-15 minutes every time. The other time-suck that I didn’t even think about prior to having such long winters was how much more laundry we have. When you’re wearing so many more layers every day, it really turns into a mountain of laundry after just a couple of days.
Winter is Kinda Messy
This is why Canada is shoes off.
Having only lived in northern climates as a child (and/or for short periods of time), I was completely unaware of just how messy snowy winters can be. Everyone walks inside constantly dripping on the floor – the floors of restaurants, our building’s lobby, and worst of all, the entryway of our apartment. It didn’t take long for me to put an extra mat and towels by the door (yay, more laundry), but it doesn’t matter because there’s no containing it all. And you might be thinking, “hey, no big deal, water dries”, which is true, except this isn’t just water. It’s salted, which means everything gets a nice crusty white layer of salt even after it’s dry. The salt and sludge obviously got to the car as well, and we ended up having to get a carwash halfway through last winter because we literally couldn’t see out of the windows. I’m pretty sure I could count on one hand the number of times we’ve ever washed our car, and I would have never thought we’d have to wash it in the dead of winter!
There’s Quite a Bit of Extra Work
Okay, so we learned you have to prepare in advance, spend more time than usual, and always expect a mess, which, of course, requires some extra work, but the amount of extra work really kept surprising us! Scrape this, shovel that, clear a path for the dog to get to the “grass” because the snow walls are taller than she is! On and on it goes! Jenn, too, has to put a bit more effort into her daily tasks. She has to endure the multiple layers of clothing, scale snowdrifts when looking for a place to pee, and get wiped down whenever she comes back inside – all to her chagrin. On the bright side, I do feel like we still meet our exercise quotas because walking in the snow and scraping ice are definitely high calorie-burning activities!
So much fun!Good thing she’s adaptable!
So Many New Tricks to Learn
Another huge positive is that we developed a whole new set of skills. The best way to stomp excess snow off your boots? We know it. The best way to layer for easy transitioning between indoors and out? We’ve got it down. We’re also now very attuned to the sounds of the snow plows, which comes in handy, and I’m very happy to report that I didn’t fall on the ice even once last year (which I cannot say about our first Polish winter). I’d also add that we’re now very good at switching between Fahrenheit and Celsius, and we’re pretty much experts in interpreting the various weather alerts and winter vocabulary, regardless of the source. If you want to know more about the difference between hail, freezing rain, and sleet, I got you fam.
Lots of Surprises
All in all, I think we took everything pretty well in stride last year, but there were still a few things that we just didn’t believe until we experienced them ourselves. For example, our neighbors told us to watch out for the sunny days because they’re often the coldest, and wow, they were absolutely right! Apparently, clouds signal warmer temperatures – who knew?! We were also extremely surprised by how quick and easy it was to do some of the winter challenges, like freezing ramen noodles in mid-air. It took less than ten minutes! Another thing we didn’t think much about was how gas mileage would be affected, nor did we think we’d even notice if it was. Spoiler, we absolutely did. And perhaps most surprisingly, it didn’t take long at all for 0°C (32°F) to not really feel all that cold. After a week at -10°C (15°F), hovering right around freezing felt downright balmy.
Luckily, It’s Incredibly Fun and Beautiful!
I know most people reading this will say things like “that’s why I hate winter” or “I never want to live somewhere like that”, but even with these added challenges, we had an absolute blast last winter and are so eager to do it all again (hopefully just a little more efficiently this time). Winter is definitely still my favorite season even if it does require a bit more effort up here. In fact, I’d say we actually enjoyed it more because of those extra efforts. Ultimately, it was fun to slow down, get a little messy, and learn a plethora of new things. For me, winters like these are so fun and so beautiful that I quickly forget about any negatives. So, who wants to come visit us in January and see for yourselves? Our winter wonderland will be waiting!
It’s officially November, which means we’re situated about halfway between the two Thanksgivings, and I think that calls for another food-related post! About this time last year, I wrote about some of our most memorable meals, which was fun and nostalgic, but this year, I wanted a challenge. For this month’s post, Tucker and I debated long and hard to come up with a list of the top ten best things we’ve ever eaten (in no particular order).
Sounds easy, doesn’t it? It was NOT. We struggled with remembering, with choosing, and ultimately with agreeing on a mere ten dishes out of the thousands of meals we’ve enjoyed over the years. But the hardest part, by far, was realizing it’ll be years and years before we can taste all these things again! Ugh! Oh well, let’s all make ourselves hungry, starting with…
Chongqing noodles from pretty much any noodle shop in Chongqing, China
I am borderline obsessed with noodles. I eat them several times a week in one form or another, so of course, a noodle dish had to be on this list. Surprisingly, I didn’t have too much trouble in choosing my absolute favorite noodles I’ve ever had. Probably because I had them every day for about a week while visiting Western China. What makes them so special? If I had to guess, I’d say it’s a few thousand years of practice. But it might also just be the perfect combination of thick noodles, spicy sauce, and crunchy toppings.
La Sauvagine Fondant from St Hubert in Gatineau, Québec
A somewhat surprising and recent addition to our list is an appetizer we ordered on a whim just last month. We were at one of our favorite restaurants here in Canada and happened to see a melted cheese dish that looked intriguing. Well, not only was it intriguing, it was absolutely addictive! We actually went back and had it again the very next week, which if you know Tucker, you know how big a deal that is. La Sauvagine, the main component, is a soft cheese from Québec to which they add dried cranberries, bacon, pumpkin seeds, green onions, and maple syrup all melted together in a skillet and served with grilled ciabatta. Oh mon dieu!
Sonoran specialties from Mochomos in Aguascalientes, México
Next up is really more of the entire menu than one specific dish, but if we had to choose just one, we could and it would still be on this list. Mochomos is a Sonoran-style restaurant with several branches in North and Central Mexico. Their concept is “Requeza Sonorense” or Sonoran Wealth, which means they highlight the best ingredients from the region in a simple but elegant way. The cortes, or cuts of meat, are the biggest draw, and they are done to perfection, but the sweet and spicy sesame panela is the dish we found ourselves going back for.
Zupy i kotlety from Gospoda Koko in Kraków, Poland
This was one dish we had a little trouble naming, but it stood out so clearly in our minds that we had to put it on the list. Tucked away on one of the many side streets of Kraków’s Old Town, there’s a rustic-looking restaurant (think hay and chickens) that’s still using handwritten menus, and they make the most delicious, homey Polish dishes that we’ve ever had outside of a Polish home. Both times we were there we shared a bowl of rosół (chicken noodle soup) and a plate of meat, sauce, and potatoes, which we’re still trying to recreate at home…to no avail, of course.
Brisket on weck sandwich from Fat Bob’s Smokehouse in Buffalo, New York
Beef on weck is a Buffalo staple made up of thinly sliced roast beef served on a kummelweck bread roll topped with salt and caraway seeds, and it’s really good! But when a place takes an already delicious traditional dish like that and adds slow-cooked brisket to the mix, well clearly, they make our list of best things we’ve ever eaten! In fact, we’re planning on driving quite a bit out of our way just to get this sandwich the next time we have to go south. And if you’re ever there, don’t forget the extra jus and horseradish! So good!
Cuban plates from Old’s Havana in Miami, Florida
Cuban food, in general, is one of our favorites, so we have it fairly often (definitely every time we’re in Florida), and when thinking of the best plate of Cuban cuisine we’ve ever had, Old’s Havana is what comes to mind! It’s there that we had our favorite vaca frita, which is the most incredible mezcla of shredded and fried flank steak topped with sauteed onions and lime, and, of course, everything there is served with the equally delicious Cuban trifecta: rice, beans, and plantains. Also, I’d be remiss if I didn’t admit that the atmosphere of a place can totally affect how much we enjoy it, and Old’s is truly such a fun place that even if you didn’t like the food, you’d still love the experience!
Katsu from Katsukura in Kyoto, Japan
Japan takes their food seriously, and it definitely shows in their restaurant scene. Just like in Japanese architecture, there seems to be a focus on subtlety and presentation, which we absolutely fell in love with at Katsukura. The first thing we did upon sitting down at this gorgeous restaurant was grind a variety of sesame seeds by hand to make our own individualized dipping sauces. That freshness and attention to detail was also evident in each and every bite of our katsu (a panko-encrusted fried pork cutlet served with shredded cabbage). My mouth is literally watering as I write this…
Khao soi (made by Tucker) at Asia Scenic Thai Cooking School in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Next up is a dish made by Tucker with the help of Asia Scenic Thai Cooking School. For this one, we procured our own ingredients at a local market and followed along as a master Thai chef showed us how it’s done, and by the end of the class, we had one of our favorite dishes in the world made exactly how we like it. Khao soi is a coconut curry-based soup usually made with egg noodles (both boiled and fried), chicken, chilis, and lime. It is an incredibly unique and delicious dish that Tucker, to this day, has never been able to turn down.
Fugazetta from Lunático in Buenos Aires, Argentina
Another somewhat surprising addition to our list is fugazetta. This seemingly simple dish is an Argentine specialty made up of two pizza crusts stuffed with cheese and topped with caramelized onions. I know what you’re thinking, “How can that be special enough to make it onto our top-ten-of-all-time list?” Well, I don’t know what to tell you other than it’s absolutely delicious. The ratio of bread, cheese, and onion is sheer perfection, and the fact that it’s usually made in a woodfire oven, gives it an amazing charred quality as well. ¡Absolutamente delicioso!
Shopska salad from Restaurant Skopski Merak in Skopje, North Macedonia
And last but not least, my beloved shopska salad. I feel like I talk about this salad quite a bit, and I make a North American version of it just about every month, but the original just can’t be beat. The shopska salad originates from Southeastern Europe. We first had it in North Macedonia, and as soon as we did, we were hooked. It’s a mix of fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and sirene cheese (which is kind of like feta) dressed with sunflower oil, vinegar, and salt. It’s incredibly refreshing and is often served with a shot of fruit brandy, so really how could you go wrong?
And that’s it! Our official list of the top ten best things we’ve ever eaten as of November 2024! I really should start keeping a list of all future contenders, so this won’t be quite so hard next time. But honestly, who knows when that’ll be, so until then, bon appétit!
October in Ottawa is absolutely stunning, but I think regardless of the season, Ottawa might just be the prettiest place we’ve ever lived! But what about all the places we’ve visited over the years? To answer this extremely important question, Tucker and I scrolled through my Facebook albums to come up with our gut-reaction, top 10 prettiest places we’ve been list (in rough geographical order). It wasn’t an easy task, but somebody’s got to do it, right? Okay, maybe not, but it was still fun to do!
#1 Banff, Canada
As I think will become quite clear as this lists progresses, we love a good mountain scene, especially in fall/winter, which is why Banff had to be mentioned. Even before stepping foot into Alberta, we knew Banff was going to be pretty based on all the media constantly swirling around this vacation destination, but we were still absolutely blown away by the dynamic beauty of the Canadian Rockies.
#2 Moab, USA
If you’ve known me for any length of time, you know my favorite place in the United States is Arches National Park, located in Moab, Utah. I don’t know exactly what it is that I love so much, but ever since I first laid eyes on it (around 20 years ago, mind you), it has been one of my favorite landscapes in the world.
#3 Quintana Roo, Mexico
Although not usually beach people, Tucker and I have to concede that the beaches along Mexico’s Caribbean coast are simply on another level. Of course, it’s not just the beaches that we found so alluring – the cliffs, the cenotes, the lagoons, all of the nature and even some human-made structures in Quintana Roo really stand out to us on the prettiness scale.
#4 Cotopaxi, Ecuador
For pure, rugged beauty, there might not be a better example than Ecuador’s Cotopaxi National Park. Volcanos, calderas, pampas – even if you’re not a geologist, you can easily see the beauty these amazing natural features bring to the table.
#5 Ushuaia, Argentina
With beautiful snowy mountains, clear waters, and pink skies, Ushuaia is the closet you can get to Antarctica without a boat, and not only is it pretty, it’s pretty freaking awesome. Known as the “End of the World”, the remoteness only added to the beauty of this far-flung location.
#6 Bergen, Norway
Tired of snowy mountains yet? Well, what if we add fjords to the mix? Bergen is another place we’ll always mention when talking about gorgeous surroundings. Of course, we loved it in winter, but I have friends who visited in summer, and their photos also took my breath away!
#7 Skopje, North Macedonia
North Macedonia surprised us from the moment we landed. We ended up in Skopje because it was one of the cheapest places we could fly to at the time, and I’m so glad it was! The city is full of beautiful architecture, and with Matka Canyon only a short bus ride away, I’m continually surprised that it isn’t yet packed with tourists!
#8 Gorkhi-Terelj, Mongolia
Another one for the “rugged beauty” column, Mongolia is truly in a world of its own. More wide-open spaces than I’ve ever seen in my life and the bluest of blue skies gave us such a pretty picture of a place we never imagined we’d be able to see in person.
#9 Yunnan, China
As with several countries already on this list, sometimes we found it difficult to narrow down to just one region. China has a lot of extremely beautiful places, but the one that tops the list for us (excluding any biases, of course) is Yunnan. A province in the southwest corner of the country, it is blessed with an abundance of flora and fauna, and its capital is known as the “City of Eternal Spring” – it doesn’t get much prettier than that!
#10 Brisbane, Australia
And last but not least, Brisbane, Australia rounds out our list! It’s located between Sunshine Coast and Gold Coast, which even sounds pretty, but what struck us even more than the beautiful beaches nearby was the city itself. Gorgeous skylines, quirky architecture, and the only (and therefore most beautiful) “city beach” we’ve ever seen. Definitely worth the long trip Down Under!
Honestly, getting this list down to just 10 was really tricky, but in the end, I feel good about our choices. Of course, the pictures never really do the places justice, so if you can, I highly recommend seeing these beauties in person some day! If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a trip must be worth a million.
Dani Francuz Rose 