Where to go in México

On October 4, 2025 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Of all the places we’ve been, we probably get the most questions about Mexico, which makes sense because Mexico is such a beautiful country, and anyone would be lucky to spend time there. However, I do sometimes get a little sad when people tell me they only plan to visit (and often re-visit) one of the same three places: Cancún, Cabo, or Puerto Vallarta. I mean, to some extent, I get it. Those are the most well-known beach cities in the country, but imagine if someone wanted to see the US, and then just repeatedly visited LA. What about the Grand Canyon? What about New York? What about Yellowstone? Mexico is every bit as diverse as the US, which is why I wanted to highlight some other amazing destinations for anyone who wants to see more of what Mexico has to offer.

La Paz

First off, we’ll start with my favorite beaches in Mexico. Located on the eastern side of Baja California, La Paz has some of the prettiest seascapes I’ve ever seen (and I’ve seen some stunners). If you’re looking for the most tranquilo place to vacation, this might just be it. La Paz is known for its beautiful sunsets, delicious seafood, and diverse sea life. We swam with the sea lions there, but you can also see whales, rays, and thousands of tropical fish. And if you don’t want to get in the water, there are plenty of catamaran, kayak, and glass-bottom boat options too. There are also nature preserves on either side of the city where you can hike, picnic, sand surf, ride ATVs, and so much more. In short, La Paz deserves more attention.

Chihuahua

When you think of Mexico do you think of steep, red canyons and scenic train rides through the mountains? Well, I do when I think about Chihuahua and its Copper Canyon. This is a part of Mexico that any self-respecting nature-lover would drool over. Chihuahua might be more famous for the dog breed that originated there, but it’s also Mexico’s largest estado and has a vast number of amazing landscapes and exciting activities. Between riding the infamous El Chepe train through the mountains, rappelling down one of the rock faces of the canyon, and standing awestruck at the base of one of Mexico’s tallest waterfalls, I couldn’t believe I had never heard of any of these places prior to living in Mexico!

Monterrey

If sleek cities and big events are more your speed, then Monterrey might be perfect for you! Monterrey is big, modern, and just a short flight away from many major US cities, which is why there’s a lot of international business that takes place here. There’s also one of the coolest stadiums in the world, so if you want to catch a soccer game (or a concert), Monterrey is a great place to do it! And just because it’s a major city doesn’t mean you can’t get your dose of nature while you’re there because the city is surrounded by the beautiful Sierra Madres, giving the city stunning views, but also offering nearby hiking and climbing options. Oh, and be sure to check out the thermal pools while you’re there – simplemente mágico!

San Luis Potosí

Rather than another week at the beach, you could choose to spend your time chasing waterfalls in San Luis Potosí instead. On the eastern side of this state, you’ll find the Huasteca Potosina, which is a region known for its abundance of waterfalls, turquoise rivers, and other unique natural features. There are a ton of itineraries for this part of Mexico because there is so much to see here! I took my parents on a road trip throughout this area, and we had the best time jumping from natural wonder to natural wonder. There aren’t so many large cities out this way, and you’ll definitely feel the jungle vibes, so if you like that kind of adventure, I can’t recommend San Luis Potosí enough.

Guadalajara

Ah, Guadalajara: one of my homes, and easily my favorite place in Mexico. Okay, yes, I’m aware I’m a little biased when it comes to this particular city, but I love it precisely because I know it so well! There’s so much fun to be had in GDL, and the food here is beyond incredible (perhaps only riveled by CDMX). In addition to the amazing city scene, there are several great day trips (less than an hour away) that you can easily fit into your trip as well, namely, Chapala, Tlaquepaque, and Tequila. There might not be a beach, but Chapala lies on a gorgeous lake not so far from the airport. Plus, Mexico’s pueblos mágicos are always fun, and Tlaquepaque and Tequila are two of the best. I mean, who doesn’t want to take a 45-minute all-you-can-drink train tour to the city where tequila was invented?

Querétaro

Another draw of Mexico’s interior is its colonial cities like Querétaro. With its gorgeous architecture, rich history, and cooler temperatures thanks to Central Mexico’s higher elevation – you really can’t go wrong! Querétaro is a picture-perfect city, and it, too, has a plethora of lovely day trip options. One of my favorites was the magic city Bernal, which is home to one of the largest monoliths in the world. Or if you’re a wine-lover, Querétaro is one of Mexico’s most famous wine regions. And if those things don’t draw you in, then maybe the name will because it has got to be the most fun state name to pronounce!

Mexico City (CDMX)

CDMX (or DF if you’re old enough) is La Capital, and rightfully so. Effortlessly cool with more to do than you could ever possibly manage on a vacation, and although I feel a rivalry of sorts due to my love of Guadalajara, even I can’t deny that CDMX is an amazing place to visit. Don’t let the size of the city scare you because that’s what allows you to do and see so much in a single city: massive plazas, gorgeous galleries, and the coolest museums, just to name a few of them. Nearby, you can also see what was the old Aztec capital, Teotihuacan, which will definitely leave an impression as well. Or equally memorable would be a trip out to El Rosario to see where millions of monarch butterflies overwinter every year. Honestly, so many things you can’t see on the beach!

Oaxaca

Or maybe witnessing one of Mexico’s many vibrant festivals like Día de Muertos or Día de la Independencia would be the way to go? Well, for that (and many other reasons) Oaxaca is another excellent choice. Oaxaca is located in southern Mexico, and if you just have to get to a beach (I hope you can hear my eyes roll as I type this) then you’re actually not too far from some of the best in Mexico. But beaches or no beaches, Oaxaca has a lot to offer as well. There’s an amazing mix of indigenous cultures there, which means an abundance of incredible festivals, bustling markets, and traditional food. Oaxaca is also the main producer of mezcal, so you can try just about any variety you can imagine. Definitely a great place for a fiesta!

Mérida

If you just can’t bear to part from your precious Cancún, then maybe you can at least divide your time between Quintana Roo and Yucatán. Mérida is the capital city of Yucatán, and it’s one of the most beautiful cities in the country. Mayan culture abounds here, and the best of all the Mayan ruins are nearby. If you haven’t seen at least Chichen Itza and Uxmal, then those should be your priority. Make sure you also try all the traditional Yucatán dishes like cochinita pibil, poc chuc, and papadzules. I promise, you will fall in love! And if you do choose to go to Mérida, you’ll only be short drive away from Riviera Maya and all the places that made it famous. Just make sure you save some time for the cenotes (they are far superior to the beach in my book).

Bacalar

Last but not least, I recommend beautiful Bacalar, another of the most peaceful places I’ve even been. Located on a crystal-clear lagoon, Bacalar is closer to Belize than it is to Cancún, but it’s still fairly close to the Caribbean coast. In fact, the lagoon looks a lot like the Caribbean and is famous for its shades of blue. To me, Bacalar is what Tulum was 20 years ago. Mass tourism hasn’t spoiled it yet, and I hope it never does because what makes Bacalar so amazing is its tranquility. If you want to relax in a hammock suspended over gorgeous blue water while a gentle breeze ruffles your hair, Bacalar is waiting.

Of course, these ten places only scratch the surface of what all Mexico has to offer, but I do hope that this gave you some idea as to the massive variety there is to be seen South of the Border. Cancún, Cabo, and Puerto Vallarta are nice in their own ways, but there’s truly so much more to discover!

Our Top Picks for the Prettiest Places We’ve Visited (so far!)

On October 22, 2024October 22, 2024 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

October in Ottawa is absolutely stunning, but I think regardless of the season, Ottawa might just be the prettiest place we’ve ever lived! But what about all the places we’ve visited over the years? To answer this extremely important question, Tucker and I scrolled through my Facebook albums to come up with our gut-reaction, top 10 prettiest places we’ve been list (in rough geographical order). It wasn’t an easy task, but somebody’s got to do it, right? Okay, maybe not, but it was still fun to do!

#1 Banff, Canada

As I think will become quite clear as this lists progresses, we love a good mountain scene, especially in fall/winter, which is why Banff had to be mentioned. Even before stepping foot into Alberta, we knew Banff was going to be pretty based on all the media constantly swirling around this vacation destination, but we were still absolutely blown away by the dynamic beauty of the Canadian Rockies.

#2 Moab, USA

If you’ve known me for any length of time, you know my favorite place in the United States is Arches National Park, located in Moab, Utah. I don’t know exactly what it is that I love so much, but ever since I first laid eyes on it (around 20 years ago, mind you), it has been one of my favorite landscapes in the world.

#3 Quintana Roo, Mexico

Although not usually beach people, Tucker and I have to concede that the beaches along Mexico’s Caribbean coast are simply on another level. Of course, it’s not just the beaches that we found so alluring – the cliffs, the cenotes, the lagoons, all of the nature and even some human-made structures in Quintana Roo really stand out to us on the prettiness scale.

#4 Cotopaxi, Ecuador

For pure, rugged beauty, there might not be a better example than Ecuador’s Cotopaxi National Park. Volcanos, calderas, pampas – even if you’re not a geologist, you can easily see the beauty these amazing natural features bring to the table.

#5 Ushuaia, Argentina

With beautiful snowy mountains, clear waters, and pink skies, Ushuaia is the closet you can get to Antarctica without a boat, and not only is it pretty, it’s pretty freaking awesome. Known as the “End of the World”, the remoteness only added to the beauty of this far-flung location.

#6 Bergen, Norway

Tired of snowy mountains yet? Well, what if we add fjords to the mix? Bergen is another place we’ll always mention when talking about gorgeous surroundings. Of course, we loved it in winter, but I have friends who visited in summer, and their photos also took my breath away!

#7 Skopje, North Macedonia

North Macedonia surprised us from the moment we landed. We ended up in Skopje because it was one of the cheapest places we could fly to at the time, and I’m so glad it was! The city is full of beautiful architecture, and with Matka Canyon only a short bus ride away, I’m continually surprised that it isn’t yet packed with tourists!

#8 Gorkhi-Terelj, Mongolia

Another one for the “rugged beauty” column, Mongolia is truly in a world of its own. More wide-open spaces than I’ve ever seen in my life and the bluest of blue skies gave us such a pretty picture of a place we never imagined we’d be able to see in person.

#9 Yunnan, China

As with several countries already on this list, sometimes we found it difficult to narrow down to just one region. China has a lot of extremely beautiful places, but the one that tops the list for us (excluding any biases, of course) is Yunnan. A province in the southwest corner of the country, it is blessed with an abundance of flora and fauna, and its capital is known as the “City of Eternal Spring” – it doesn’t get much prettier than that!

#10 Brisbane, Australia

And last but not least, Brisbane, Australia rounds out our list! It’s located between Sunshine Coast and Gold Coast, which even sounds pretty, but what struck us even more than the beautiful beaches nearby was the city itself. Gorgeous skylines, quirky architecture, and the only (and therefore most beautiful) “city beach” we’ve ever seen. Definitely worth the long trip Down Under!

Honestly, getting this list down to just 10 was really tricky, but in the end, I feel good about our choices. Of course, the pictures never really do the places justice, so if you can, I highly recommend seeing these beauties in person some day! If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a trip must be worth a million.

Things We’ll Miss About Mexico

On May 20, 2023May 20, 2023 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Another international move is on our horizon (and fast approaching), so, of course, I find myself reminiscing and thinking about what an amazing 2+ years we’ve had en México. As I did with both China and Poland, I felt the urge to record some of our favorite things about living here in the form of an A-Z list of what we think we’ll miss most when we leave. Things like:

Amigos – Without a doubt, the hardest part of any move is leaving behind our friends, and I don’t know if it’s because we were here longer or because we found our friendship medias naranjas (soulmates), but this time it’s even harder. 🥹

Bebidas – Where do I even begin with all the drinks we’ll miss! Cantaritos, cazuelas, carajillos…hey, maybe this should have been “c”! Pre-Mexico, I didn’t think I was a fan of fruity drinks or coffee, but I clearly had no idea what I was missing!

Comida – Fittingly, right after bebidas is another, equally important category: la comida or the food. Even before we stepped foot into Mexico, I knew this was my favorite cuisine. Tacos are life as far as I’m concerned, and it should be no surprise that by far the best tacos (and every other Mexican dish) I’ve had has been right here.

Day of the Dead – I’m not into creepy or scary things, so I wasn’t sure what to expect with Día de Muertos, but after celebrating it in both GDL and Oaxaca, I absolutely love it! I’m taking my Day of the Dead decorations with me to Canada, so let the celebrations continue!

Español – This is another big one. I put so much time and energy into learning Spanish over the past three years that it really pains me knowing it’s already starting to deteriorate. I also know I’m really going to miss all the friendly “buen día”s and general ease and openness that comes with español.

Futbol – Tucker loves his sports, particularly local sports, so we had amazing luck moving to GDL, choosing to support Atlas, and then watching them win back-to-back championships! But really, you don’t have to win or even like soccer to enjoy the excitement you can hear literally everywhere in the city when someone scores a ¡GOOOOLLLL!

Guadalajara – Of course, “g” is for the city itself. We chose Guadalajara specifically, which was new for us. I wasn’t assigned to a posting here, we personally decided that GDL had the vibes we wanted (and maybe needed) in the uncertain pandemic times. And honestly, I don’t think we could have possibly made a better choice. In another life, we were definitely Tapatíos.

Handicrafts – I thought China had the handicraft market cornered, but I was so wrong! Mexico also has an incredibly vibrant and varied collection of things ranging from jaguar whistles to braided bags. I will, of course, be bringing many things with me when I go, but I’ll also miss seeing what all is out there!

Ice cream – Or more specifically, nieves de garrafa, is one of the main sweet treats we know we’ll miss (especially Tucker). I mean, ice cream is always good, but when it’s tequila or Ferrero Rocher flavored, that’s really something special.

Jacarandas – I’ll likely never have my own garden (for so many reasons, worms being just one of them), and maybe this is why I was completely entranced by the flowers of Mexico. Even in the cities, there are tons and tons of flowers all year round, my favorite of which are undoubtedly the absolutely gorgeous jacarandas.

Knife sharpeners – This one really represents all the sounds we’ll miss when we leave Mexico. The pan flute whistle of the knife sharpeners, the garbagemen and their cow bells, and the daily shouts of “AGUA” just to name a few.

Limones – Tucker thinks I have a limón problem. If they’re offered as a food or drink accompaniment, I usually take several and douse whatever I have. I have absolutely become a limón convert during our time here, and I know I’ll miss having them as often as I’d like.

Molletes – A dish I had never heard of quickly became one of my favorites in Mexico, the humble mollete. Toasted bread covered in a variety of amazing combinations from the more traditional: melted cheese, refried beans, and salsa Mexicana (my favorite), to the more modern, eggs Benedict, not to mention all the dulce options like lechera or cajeta and fruit, all of which I miss already!

Nature – Stereotypes have a way of getting into your head without you even realizing it, and for me, one that I had prior to our time in Mexico was that it was all deserts down here, which is absolutely not the case. I rarely saw the deserts of the North, but I will certainly miss the agave fields, the waterfalls, the forests, the beaches, and really all the amazing nature Mexico has to offer.

Our neighborhood – As much as I love GDL, what I love most is probably our neighborhood: Colonia Americana. It was recently voted as one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world, and we couldn’t agree more.

Pueblos mágicos – Someone had an amazing idea to boost tourism in some of the random smaller towns across Mexico by creating a pueblos mágicos (or magic towns) list. Visiting these places felt a little like collecting Pokémon, but it also allowed us to see so many different sides to this beautiful country.

Queso fundido – Another pleasant surprise for us came in the form of queso fundido. We knew we loved the queso you get at Mexican restaurants in the US, but real queso is so much better. Thick and eaten with warm tortillas, why has this version not made it north of the border?!

Rainy season – I am so happy that we already got the first storm of rainy season 2023 (a bit early as they usually start in June) because I LOVE RAINY SEASON. The clouds rolling in, the smell of a storm coming, the ridiculous amounts of rain and lightning and thunder, and even the adrenaline-inducing inundaciones that follow.

Spontaneity – If China taught us to expect the unexpected, Mexico has taught us to stop planning ahead so much. It’s far more fun to just wing it, and trust me, that’s actually much easier to do when literally everyone else is doing it too.

Tacos y Tequila – I couldn’t pick just one! Tacos are my favorite food, and learning the true art of the taco has been a dream come true for me, but tasting the best tequilas in the world from the city where they originate is something I’ll also miss dearly.

Usar esto… and by “esto” I mean the Mexico-specific finger gestures used to indicate “sí” or “no”. After being confused by these finger nods for months, we finally asked what they meant, and then quickly adopted them ourselves. I can’t wait to attempt them in Quebec and see the reactions!

Viajar – Of course, one of the things I always miss when we leave a country is the easy access to domestic travel options. I LOVE seeing parts of a country that usually only locals see, and in Mexico, although it was a bit harder to accomplish, I felt equally if not more excited when I was successful.

Weather – Surprisingly, one of the things we’ll miss most is el clima de GDL. Even though it’s so far south, the high elevation means that it doesn’t get super hot, there’s minimal humidity, and the seasons are the most consistent I’ve ever experienced. We almost forgot that in most places (like Canada), you have to check the weather every day before going out – how weird!

Xolos – Seeing a xolo (or Xoloitzcuintle) in the wild, or you know, just walking down the street with its owner was something like a game for us. “Xolo spotting” we called it, and we’ll definitely miss it as well as the regal, hairless dogs themselves.

Yolo vibes – I didn’t know how else to put this, but one of the things I’ll miss most about our Mexico lives are the “yolo” vibes we’ve experienced. “Social Thursdays”, staying up late and eating tacos well into the madrugada, the calm, good-humored or tranquilo way of handling life’s problems; it felt mentally healthier and at the same time, so much fun!

Zócalos – or plazas, are a bit of a stand-in for all the incredible architecture and history that make up each of Mexico’s many beautiful city-centers. Being from a country that loves to knock things down and build anew, I’ll forever be enamored by pre-1700s buildings, of which Mexico has its fair share.

So that’s our list! As always, I’m excited to see which of these really end up being the things we crave in a year or two, but for the time being, I’m happy to spend our last week here relishing these and many more aspects of Mexican Life as we try to gather the courage to leave it all behind. Thanks again, Mexico, what an amazing experience it has been!

Our Latin American Travels (so far)

On April 18, 2023April 18, 2023 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Once again, the time has come for me to document our travels! This time, specifically in and around Latin America! We’ve been lucky enough to call Guadalajara, Mexico “home” for almost two and a half years now, and even with a global pandemic cramping our style in the beginning, we’ve made it a point to travel as much as possible throughout the region. Of course, we added a few new countries to our growing list over the past two years, but our main priority was definitely to explore the different regions of our home country. Therefore, in addition to the long list of names (and accompanying photos), I’ll also be highlighting our top 5 places to visit in Mexico! Hopefully this will help guide you on any future trips to Mexico because in our opinion, these are truly the best of the best!

Yucatán: Mérida, Chichen Itzá, Uxmal, & Progreso

Guadalajara, Jalisco – There is just no earthly way I could leave OUR city off this list! We have traveled to over half the states of Mexico, to some of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, and there is still nowhere else I’d rather be. Guadalajara has everything we could ever want in a city. Some of the best food in the world, the most friendly, progressive, helpful people, an incredible history, gorgeous architecture, the perfect, high-altitude climate, I really could go on! When I say “en mi corazón, soy una Tapatía”, I truly mean it. And if you ever want to visit GDL, please, please, please reach out! I have so much to share about one of, if not my absolute favorite, city in the world!

Chapala, Jalisco

CDMX & Teotihuacan, México

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato

Ajijic, Jalisco

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco

Teuchitlán, Jalisco

Aguascalientes & Boca de Túnel, Aguascalientes

Sayulita, Nayarit & Islas Marietas

Querétaro & Bernal, Querétaro – Interestingly, most of the places that made this highly exclusive list were places that we had never heard of prior to moving to Mexico. Places like Querétaro. Querétaro is both a city and a state in the very center of Mexico, and it has so much to offer! A historic, colonial city-center, a wine region, and the nearby pueblo mágico, Bernal, which has the third largest monolith in the world jutting out from behind one of the most picturesque towns I’ve ever had the pleasure of photographing. It is what I call “real Mexico”, outside all the tourist hubs, a little bit off the beaten track, thus much richer in charm and Mexican spirit.

Ecuador: Quito, Cotopaxi, & Quilotoa

Tlaquepaque, Tonalá, & Zapopan, Jalisco

Tapalpa, Jalisco

Monterrey, Nuevo León

Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas

Saltillo, Coahuila

Guanajuato, Guanajuato – Another ciudad full of Mexican spirit and history is Guanajuato. Also located in central Mexico, Guanajuato is a true mountain city and is just downright cool. With all its twisting tunnels and spectacular views of the peaks and valleys that make up this city, Guanajuato is such an amazing place to explore some of the lesser-known traditions, dishes, and other elements of Mexican culture. Tucker and I spent Birthdays Week here last year, and we’ve been besotted ever since. It might be one of the best walking cities in the world with the incredibly unique cafes, shops, and historical sites around just about every corner!

Quintana Roo: Cancún, Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Cozumel, Tulum, & Bacalar

Argentina: Buenos Aires & Ushuaia

Uruguay: Montevideo

San Luis Potosí: Ciudad Valles, Tamasopo, Tamul & San Luis Potosí

El Meco, Tamaulipas

Tequila, Jalisco – Ah, Tequila. The word probably brings up fond memories for us all (well, and maybe a few not-so-fond memories too), but the town of Tequila, aka the birthplace of the drink, is good vibes only. It’s one of 40 pueblos mágicos that we happened to visit during our time here, and it’s by far my favorite. Distillery tours, agave fields, markets, cantaritos, shows, and so much more with the absolute BEST atmosphere and a scenic train to boot. This is the side of Mexico that I love. It’s fun, and it’s a party, but it’s also so much more than that. And the best thing is, it’s only 45 minutes from Guadalajara – an easy and obvious day-trip for any future visitors!

Oaxaca: Oaxaca, Monte Albán, Mitla, Tlacolula, & Hierve de Agua

León, Guanajuato

Chihuahua: Chihuahua, Ciudad Cuauhtémoc, Creel, & Las Barrancas del Cobre

Baja California Sur: San José del Cabo, Cabo San Lucas, Todos Santos, La Paz, & Isla Espíritu Santo – And last, but certainly not least, is La Paz, Baja California Sur. Honestly, we weren’t expecting to be impressed with this one as beaches (especially with loads of tourists) aren’t really our thing, but the pure beauty of La Paz absolutely blew us away! If you read all the names on this list, you’ve seen that we’ve been to all the big-hitters: Cancún, Tulum, Cabo, Puerto Vallarta, etc. but let me tell you, none of those compare to the beaches and nature surrounding La Paz! Sea lions, whale sharks, crystal clear water, white sandy beaches, and if you ask me, a slightly more respectful collection of tourists. Other than Guadalajara, La Paz is the only other place in Mexico we’d consider living, and given our love of GDL, that really is saying something!

Michoacán: Morelia & El Rosario

Bogotá, Colombia

And that’s the list! So many incredible places that we’ve had the privilege to see in person! I know some people wonder why we do it; why we uproot our lives and leave our families and friends behind every few years, well, this is it. Because every section of the world has so much to offer, and as long as I’m able to, I will do everything in my power to continue exploring it and learning everything I can along the way! Gracias, México, for one heck of a good journey!

Cosas que amo del español

On March 30, 2023March 30, 2023 By Dani Francuz Rose1 Comment

For over two and a half years now, I’ve been learning (and using) Spanish on a daily basis, and I think it’s safe to say that it’s officially one of my favorite languages in the world. Beautiful and expressive, but also pretty straightforward and más o menos consistent, there’s really a lot to love (especially from a student’s perspective)! So, this month, I’d like to honor español and share some of my favorite things about este idioma super chido. ¡Disfruta! Enjoy!

#1 The ability to make things cuter with “-ito”

English occasionally has this ability with things like “duck” and “ducking”, but en español you can add “-ito” or “-ita” to any noun if you want to make it smaller and, therefore, cuter. For example, “engrapadora” means “stapler”, and “engrapadorita” means “tiny, adorable, little stapler”. See how fun?! Of course, it can also be used to differentiate meaning, which is just as cool! For example, “golf” and “golfito”, which would be “golf” and “putt-putt” respectively. Animals also get the “-ito” treatment when they’re babies, as with “gato” and “gatito” (“cat” and “kitten”). However, my all-time favorite will always be “caballito de mar” (“little horse of the sea”) – so cute!

# 2 The super fun pronunciations

I could talk about Spanish pronunciation and why I love it for much longer than most people would care to listen; however, I added this to my list not to discuss how amazingly consistent the pronunciation is, but, instead, just how fun it can be! The high tendency of consonant, vowel, consonant patterns means you get a lot of syllables that (usually) roll pretty effortlessly off the tongue. Sometimes these are just Spanish-ified English cognates, like “panqueuques”, which is just so much more fun than “pancakes”. Sometimes they have a Nahuatl flare like Tucker’s favorite: “cacahuate” (or “peanut”). And sometimes they just end up sounding a little bit dangerous, like “murciélago” (or “bat”). All of which make them great candidates for pet names, passwords, and/or expletive alternatives! And since you pretty much have to say these out loud, here are some English-y phonetics: “panqueques” = pan-kay-kays… “cacahuate” = ka-ka-wah-tay… and “murciélago” = moo-er-see-el-ah-go

#3 The usefulness of the accent marks

Lots of languages use diacritic marks. Even English will still throw in a few just for good measure (think café, façade, and piñata), but Spanish uses its accent marks way more often and way more efficiently. Rather than indicating something like foreignness, history, or even a sound change, Spanish accents will either tell you where the stress of a given word falls (super helpful) or if it’s actually a different word entirely. It’s like a little code within the code that language already is! So cool! Here are a few of my favorite examples: with the accent, “inglés” means “English”, but without it, “ingles” means “groins”. While that one can be quite jarring, others are super common like “sí” (“yes”) and “si” (“if”). Somewhat like seeing someone in English write “no” when they mean “know”, you can learn a lot from whether or not someone “nose” when to use accent marks. ;)

I still think about this particular error years later…apostrophes are important too!

#4 Seeing K-words written with Cs

Another thing I love about Spanish is its commitment to consistency. Many languages have both the letters C and K, and very often they sound the same. But somewhere along the line, Spanish was like, “no thanks, you can keep your redundant K”; therefore, there are a lot of quasi-universal K-words that always give me pause in Spanish, no matter how well I know the rules. Those jumpy animals in Australia: “canguros”. The Asian peninsula known for Gangnam Style and Samsung: “Corea”. And the super boring, beige material that a lot of 90s office workers wore, you guessed it: “caqui” (which is really minus K x2). I absolutely love it, but I have to be completely honest and admit that learning Spanish has severely decreased my confidence in English spelling…and that’s probably already saying something.

#5 Things that just make sense

While I’m sometimes confused when I see a random C where a K should totally be, I’ve definitely encountered more things in Spanish that just plain make sense. It happens quite frequently that I come across a new word or phrase, and although I’d never seen it before, I have no difficultly in deciphering its meaning. For example, I once read the phrase “caja torácica” or “thoracic box”- what else could that be besides “rib cage”? Or “telaraña” which is literally “fabric” + “spider”, obviously “spider web”. And finally, there’s the fact that Spanish loves to simply call a spade a spade: “goths” = “darks”, people who love to snack = “gordos”, and elderly people = “ancianos” – simultaneously extremely helpful in building my vocabulary and lessening my fears of offending someone en español, y por eso, ¡gracias!

#6 Things that make me laugh

But perhaps my favorite thing about learning any language is just how much it shows you the depth of which your own language shapes the way you think. I absolutely cannot get over the fact that there is no word for “toes” in Spanish. They are referred to as “dedos de los pies” (or “fingers of the feet”), and no matter how hard I try, I can’t accept that fingers = toes. They just don’t! Another one that never fails to make me laugh is the fact that peacocks are “pavos reales” or “regal turkeys”. This one is easier to understand, but I can’t help but feel like it paints peacocks in a slightly different light…then again, they do have “cock” in their English name, so who am I to judge? Finally, the last word that I can never use with a straight face is “molestar”. Coming from the same root, the English version isn’t that far off, but in Spanish it only means “to bother”, and it is used ALL THE TIME. Hotels even give you “no molestar” signs for the doors, which Tucker and I always make a point to snicker at. Ah, the joys of learning a new language!

So, there are just a handful of the things that I absolutely love about español. I hope you enjoyed them as much as I do! And personally, I can’t wait to revisit this list in a few years just to see if a) I’ve remembered all these details and b) if there’s anything I’d add to the list in hindsight. So stay tuned! Y por último, I just want to say that Spanish really is un idoma divertidísimo, so buena suerte to all those who are learning it and remember that tener otro idioma es posear otra alma. To have another language is to possess another soul. <3

Our Mexico Bucket List

On February 4, 2023January 25, 2023 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

As of this month, we’ve officially been residents de México for over two years! I honestly can’t believe how fast our time here has gone by, but I’m very happy to say that despite the short timeframe (and the global pandemic), Tucker and I were actually able to check loads of things off our Mexico Bucket List. Here are some of my favorite things we’ve done en México, plus a few more to come before we leave:

✓ Listen to Mariachi

Jalisco, the state we live in, is the birthplace of mariachi, so I’d say we’ve checked this one off and then some. We’ve listened to many a mariachi band at restaurants, at hotels, in the main plaza, and even at a mariachi festival. Although still not my favorite style of música (brass instruments can be a little jarring), I will always be transported back to Guadalajara when I hear mariachi, and for that, I am eternally grateful.

✓ Walk the Ruins of Chitchen Itza

Something that should be on everyone’s bucket list is to walk among the many ancient ruins of Mesoamerica, perhaps the most famous being Chitchen Itza. Prior to living in Mexico, this was the only archaeological site on our radar, but we’ve now also seen Uxmal, Tulum, Monte Albán, Teotihuacán, El Cerrito, and los Guachimontones, each one as incredible as the last.

✓ Cheer and Jeer at a Lucha Libre Event

Another event that we just couldn’t miss out on while in Mexico was Lucha Libre. Although I’m not a fan of fighting, even when I know it’s pretend, even I couldn’t help but be entertained by the cheers, the jeers, the theatrics, and the outfits of the luchadores. The crowd also taught me quite a few useful words and phrases for…expressing emotion en español.

✓ Admire Frida Kahlo’s Work

Mexico has so many symbols, but perhaps none will ever be as famous and beloved as Frida Kahlo. Over the years, we’ve learned so much about this incredible artist and have been lucky enough to see her work in person a few times. We even have our very own copy of Las Dos Fridas, so she will likely be accompanying us on our journey post-Mexico.

✓ Drink Tequila in Tequila

By far one of my favorite experiences we’ve had in Mexico was the Tequila train tour. Tequila is the town where the drink originates, and we happen to live about 45 minutes away from it. The town, the agave fields, and the distilleries are all equally amazing, but taking it all in via scenic train with all-you-care-to-enjoy Tequila drinks is pure perfection.

✓ See Axolotls in the Flesh

Some animals are just cooler than others, and the axolotl (or ajolote) has to be one of the coolest. However, they are also, unfortunately, critically endangered. Therefore, we were extremely lucky to get the chance to not only see them in person, but to learn more about their continued struggle and even be a part of the conservation effort.

✓ Yell “Gol” at a Fútbol Match

Tucker loves sports of all kinds, so, of course, we had to attend a football match in Mexico. And while I have no idea who we played or whether or not we won, I’ll never forget the Atlas chants and the whimsical red and black stadium snacks we enjoyed. Not to mention the sheer mania that ensues when there’s a “GOOOOOOOOOL”!

✓ Swim in a Cenote

Visiting a cenote is absolutely another thing that should be on everyone’s bucket list. They’re incredibly cool, natural swimming holes that are all extremely unique and beautiful. Whether you want to float through an ancient cave system, splash around in crystal clear waters, or listen to stories of Mayan sacrifice, there is literally a cenote for everyone.

✓ Share Roscas de Reyes and the Subsequent Tamales

Some of the most important items on our list had more to do with customs than tourism, for example, the sharing of a Rosca de Reyes on Three Kings’ Day and tamales on Candelaria. It was so fun to see who got the baby (spoiler: it was me), and to then shoulder the responsibility of sourcing tamales on the hottest tamale day of the year – something I’ll never forget.

✓ Revel in the Rainy Season

Then there are things on the list that we had no idea would or should be on a Mexico bucket list, such as experiencing the rainy season. When we first read about Guadalajara’s climate, we learned that it would rain basically every day for three months during the summer, but we had no idea how much that would change our daily routines. From the most hail we’ve ever seen to crazy flash floods, we have realized that rainy season is truly something to behold.

✓ Celebrate Día de Muertos

Another celebration that I would definitely recommend to anyone interested in Mexican culture, is Día de Muertos. There’s really nothing like it anywhere else in the world, and it’s just such a great window into what makes Mexico Mexico. It’s colorful, energetic, and happy – just an incredibly fun celebration of life that anyone would be lucky to experience firsthand.

✓ Shop at a Tianguis

A tianguis is a local, generally weekly pop-up market that is absolutely an experience in and of itself. They can be quite sprawling as they take up alleyway after alleyway, and it seems there is something new to discover around every corner: snacks, clothing, home décor; basically, if you can name it, you can find it in a tianguis.

✓ Find the Hidden Beach

One of the most Instagram-worthy places we were able to visit during the last two years was definitely the Hidden Beach in the Islas Mariettas, about 36 kms (22 miles) off the coast of Puerto Vallarta. It’s essentially a beach surrounded by land on all sides that can only be accessed by swimming through a cave. And as if the beach wasn’t amazing enough, seeing all the blue-footed boobies on the island really made the excursion unforgettable.

✓ Cross the Border on Foot

Another experience that I count among one of my favorites in Mexico was crossing the border by foot. Before moving to Mexico, the border was a shadowy, mysterious place, but now we’ve been back and forth in a variety of manners, and I have to say walking across the Rio Grande (or Río Bravo as it’s known en México) was superbly cool.

✓ Perfect our Taco Order

You will never truly know tacos until you have them from a taco stand at 3am in Mexico. Over the last couple of years, we’ve done this more times than I can count, thus we each now have our perfect late-night taco order. But more than that, we are also now experts in differentiating tacos, gringas, quesadillas, gorditas, huaraches, and all the other taco/taco-like options, which I think will serve us very well for years to come.

✓ Survive some Earthquakes

Sometimes you just have to wait for a bucket list item to unexpectedly hit, as was the case for our first earthquake in Mexico. For much of Mexico it’s such a common occurrence that there are regular safety drills and a plethora of memes; however, it’s not so common in Guadalajara. Nevertheless, we were lucky enough to experience and survive a series of moderate quakes that shook western Mexico in 2022.

✓ Try Grasshoppers

Mexican food is one of, if not my absolute favorite of all the world’s cuisines; however, there are still a few delicacies that I thought I’d try to avoid entirely. One of such delicacies are the infamous chapulines (or grasshoppers). But as it turns out, I actually did try a roasted and seasoned chapulín while in Oaxaca, and I’m happy to report that it wasn’t that bad! Seriously, try them!

Now onto the last few things on our list that we haven’t quite done yet, but have plans to do in the next few months!

☐ Snorkel in the Sea of Cortez

Jacques Cousteau once called the Sea of Cortez the “Aquarium of the World”, and that sounds like something I have to see for myself. Dolphins, whales, sea lions, and an incredible array of tropical fish and coral all wait for us in one of the most beautiful regions of Mexico. Stay tuned because depending on when you’re reading this, we might even already be there.

☐ See Masses of Monarchs

The monarch butterfly migration is another amazing feat of nature that happens to take place right on our Mexican doorstep, and it is something that I will be doing everything I can to make happen before we leave! Millions of butterflies in a magical Michoacán forest, yes please.

☐ Make Tortillas from Scratch

Everyone knows I hate cooking, but one of my fondest memories of China was learning how to make handmade dumplings, which is what prompted me to add this particular item to our list. It’s not exactly surprising that this should be the last thing I hope to do before we leave, but no matter where it falls on the list, I know it’ll be a worthwhile experience!

So that’s my round-up of just some of the incredible things we’ve been able to do and see over these last two amazing years in Mexico. Whenever I take a look back like this, I can’t help but feel incredibly grateful and insanely lucky. ¡Gracias, México, por todo!

Holiday Season in Mexico

On December 10, 2022December 8, 2022 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

It’s the most wonderful time of the year! 🎶 Which is my musical way of stating the obvious: another holiday season is here! And this year, I thought I’d really get myself into the spirit by chronicling all the upcoming días festivos that I have to look forward to. Interestingly, seven years ago, I wrote something quite similar about celebrating Christmas in Poland, and after reading that post again, I was amazed at just how many parallels there happen to be, particularly in the number of holidays celebrated on either side of the big day. So, if you find yourself in need of more holidays/international celebrations, here’s what Christmastime looks like en México:

Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe

The first true holiday of the festive season falls on December 12th, but like any other Christmas-celebrating country, the decorations and festivities really start well before December. In fact, since Thanksgiving isn’t really a thing south of the border, there aren’t as many quarrels about when to start decorating; anything after Día de Muertos (November 2^nd) is fair game. Of course, one of the first and most ubiquitous Christmas decorations you’re likely to see are the nochebuenas (or poinsettias). Nochebuenas are indigenous to Mexico and Guatemala and were used for wintertime celebrations even before Christmas was celebrated in the Americas. Actually, a lot of Mexico’s holidays tend to be a mix of customs from various indigenous groups (such as the Aztecs or Mayans) as well as from the colonists/Christians of Spain. And a great example of this is Día de la Virgin de Guadalupe.

La Virgen de Guadalupe is another name for the Virgin Mary, and she just so happens to be the patron saint of Mexico. On Día de la Virgin de Guadalupe there is a huge pilgrimage in her honor to a site of great importance in Mexican history. However, it’s really only the truly devout who partake in this annual event. For most Mexicans, this day is known first and foremost as the official mark of the holiday season, and it often kicks off the fiestas in the form of food, drinks, and posadas. I, personally, have come to associate the word “posada” with “party”, but it actually means “inn”, a nod to the nativity story. In practice though, posadas are very much like the Christmas parties we have in the US. There are generally posadas for every peer group: family, friends, co-workers, etc. and no matter who you’re celebrating with, you’ll likely see piñatas, eat buñuelos (a fried dough treat), and drink ponche (a warm, fruity beverage). Mmm!

Noche Buena y Navidad

Next up is Christmas Eve or Noche Buena (not to be confused with nochebuenas the plants or Noche Buenas the beers haha). As a Catholic-majority country, church services are really common on Christmas Eve, including a very special midnight mass, also known as the Rooster’s Mass (it got this name because it is said that the crow of a rooster announced the birth of Christ). After mass, a feast is expected, and yes, that could be in the wee hours of the morning, which is why Christmas Day is seen as a rest and recovery sort of day. Of course, some people end up skipping church on Noche Buena, but the big family meal is rarely missed. Similar to our Thanksgiving, turkey or ham are common center pieces although the more traditional option would be bacalao, an olive and codfish dish. I’ll probably skip that one this year…

Another interesting thing about Christmas Eve night has to do with the all the nativity scenes. Nativity scenes (or Nacimientos) in general are extremely popular here. Like extremely. They feature in the décor of restaurants, banks, apartment buildings, malls, city squares, etc. Some are literally larger than life-sized and some are incredibly creative (we saw one this year made entirely out of poinsettias), but despite all the variety out there, they all have one thing in common: the baby Jesus is missing. That is, he is missing until Christmas Eve night. I absolutely love this detail and can’t believe how everyone pulls this off. Do they set an alarm to remember? Where do they keep the waiting babies? Who gets the placement privilege at the local mall? So many questions!

Día de los Santos Innocentes

Onto my least favorite of the wintertime holidays…Día de los Santos Innocentes is Mexico’s version of April Fool’s Day. It occurs every year on December 28^th and started out as a day in which you could borrow something from someone without having to give it back, a sort of “finders keepers” day. However, over time, it has evolved to include all sorts of pranks pulled by family members, friends, and even news outlets. Basically, don’t trust anything you see or hear on this day, and definitely don’t lend anyone anything you might want back.

Noche Vieja y Año Nuevo

The next set of holidays on the list are, of course, New Years Eve and New Years Day. Celebrated much the same around the world, with food, fireworks, and late-night fun, there are a few Mexican traditions that stood out to me last year. The first being the 12 grapes you eat as the clock strikes midnight. The idea is that you make a wish for each grape (12 representing the 12 months of the New Year), and if you can get ‘em all down be the time the clock is done chiming, your wishes will come true. After trying this last year, I have to say that it is definitely harder than it sounds! Fireworks are another super common tradition, but not just at midnight. In fact, fireworks can be heard pretty much all December and well into January – another vestige of indigenous practices and a popular way of celebrating anything and everything in Mexico.

Día de los Reyes y Candelaria

Finally, we come to the last two holidays of the season Día de los Reyes (January 6^th) and Candelaria (February 2^nd). Día de los Reyes or Day of the Kings (often known as Three Kings Day or Epiphany in the US) is a holiday that is probably more exciting as a child. It’s another day where kids can expect presents, this time from the Wise Men. And while adults might not get any presents, everyone does get to partake in the sharing of the rosca de reyes. A rosca is a ring-shaped pastry that has a hidden figurine of the baby Jesus somewhere inside. Usually, you eat the rosca with family or friends, and whoever gets the baby, then has to buy the tamales the following month on Candelaria. Roscas come in all different shapes and sizes these days (in fact, we got a rosca of tacos last year in addition to a more traditional pastry), but no matter what kind of rosca you eat, just remember to bite carefully! Also, I advise you to order your tamales for Candelaria days in advance – a mistake I won’t make again!

Wow! So many festivities to look forward to in next two months! Honestly, celebrating the local holidays is one of my favorite parts of living abroad, especially because we get to take these customs with us and celebrate them wherever we end up in the future! And now you can too! ¡Felices fiestas a tod@s!

Día de Muertos (and Halloween)

On October 22, 2022October 22, 2022 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Another spooky season is upon us, which, of course, has me reflecting on last year’s festivities, and since last year was our first full year in Mexico, I remember having a lot of questions regarding two very colorful (yet slightly morbid) holidays that happen to take place in the same fun-filled week. Thankfully, we had a brilliant education last year, and now I’m ready to share all that I learned! So, if you’ve ever found yourself wondering how Halloween and Día de Muertos are celebrated south of the border, well, you’re in for a treat (see what I did there?) because this post is about to get frightening(ly in-depth). Mwahaha!

Halloween in Mexico

So, first off, whenever we would ask locals about Halloween in Mexico, they’d typically tell us that it’s not really celebrated…but I beg to disagree. Grocery stores start selling costumes and decorations in September, many restaurants have jack-o-lanterns and spiders welcoming their guests, and last year on Halloween (and several days on either side of it) I witnessed creepy clowns, Squid Game contestants, and many other characters walking down the street. There are also Halloween-themed events advertised for both kids and adults all month long, so whether it’s gimmicky or not, I sense a bit of a celebration. Of course, we’ve also been told that the closer you get to the US border, the more Halloween-y it will feel. Places like Monterrey, Ciudad Juarez, and Tijuana have the most going on, but even down here in GDL, the global holiday influence is still felt. However, I also can’t deny that there is a lot more buzz around the infamous Day of the Dead, and rightly so.

Día de Muertos

With such a sinister sounding name, it’s easy to connect the ghosts and ghouls of Halloween to this particular holiday, but in reality, Día de Muertos seems to have more in common with the All Saints’ Day we experienced in Poland or with China’s Tomb Sweeping Day. The holiday’s purpose is to honor family members who have since passed, much like other memorial holidays around the world. In fact, Día de Muertos is partially connected to Catholicism, thus the same date as All Saints’ Day; however, there’s also an indigenous twist in Mexico’s version of remembrance. Origins and comparisons aside, the first thing that really confused me was actually the name itself. I was constantly hearing and seeing both Día de Muertos and Día de los Muertos…so which should I be using?! Apparently, no importa, both are used, both are correct. It’s a pick your own poison sort of thing.

The next thing we learned was that Día de Muertos is actually días, plural. The holiday consists of two very important days/celebrations, one on November first and one on November second (of course, like other holidays, the celebrating really stretches throughout the whole week), but the significance of these two days is really interesting. November first is the day when the spirits and souls of innocents (or children) are remembered and honored. This day was a bit quieter and included a lot more white flowers (as opposed to the usual gold) and decorations especially for kids. For example, one of the tombs we saw had an array of toy cars and candy set out. The next day, November second, is the big day, the day when all the other ancestors are to be remembered and celebrated, with even more flowers and special treats, of course.

So how does one celebrate Día de Muertos?

Well, like every other major holiday, there are lots of regional differences and personal preferences at play, but a few of the more traditional elements include cleaning and decorating the tombs/graves of your ancestors, making an ofrenda (or alter) in your home for more recently lost family members, and having a party to celebrate the circle of life in general. Last year, Tucker and I visited two cemeteries to see some of the tomb cleaning and decorating for ourselves, and we were absolutely amazed! Even in a large, modern city (which usually has fewer traditionalists) and even with some of the oldest cemeteries (whose descendants might also be gone at this point), not to mention a pandemic to contend with, people really went all out! Famous Jaliscienses (people from Jalisco) had the most going on with elaborate flower carpets, rows and rows of candles, and a huge amount of papel picado (the colorful paper flags), but due to the ongoing Covid battle, former nurses and doctors were also highly celebrated, as were all the other lucky souls who still have devoted family members living in the city.

The tombs are often set up much the same as the alters at home. Flowers are a must, specifically cempasúchiles (marigolds) because their bright color and strong scent help guide spirits back for the night. This is the indigenous twist I was mentioning earlier: the ancient belief was that only on this night and only if your family put up an alter for you could your spirit come back to Earth and enjoy the party. This is also why the alters are often adorned with the favorite foods, drinks, and other preferences of those who have passed – something for them to enjoy on their journey. Sometimes it’s real food and drink left out (which is usually eaten by the living family members at some point), but sometimes the alters are decorated with figurines of all the ancestors’ favorites, which you can find at pop-up markets all month long: tiny plates of tacos el pastor, little bottles of tequila, itty-bitty cigarettes, etc. If someone loved it, you can find it in miniature. Sugar skulls with the names of those who have passed are also common for the ofrendas, but today, kids often want their own names put on them, further emphasizing that this celebration is for both those who are gone and those who remain.

While the decorations and alters might be the most eye-catching parts of Día de Muertos celebrations, the most memorable part, for me, was the party atmosphere. There is nothing creepy or sad about this particular holiday. It is all joy; music is everywhere, families hugging, kids playing, even in the cemeteries themselves. And once the alters and ancestors are taken care of, more partying takes place in the form of parades, mariachi performances, and snacks for all (including the infamous pan de muerto, a sweet bread in the shape of crossbones). Sometimes in pictures, Día de Muertos can look like an homage to death with all the skeletons and tombs, but in reality, it is a celebration of life and family, and it’s something I’m very much looking forward to celebrating in person once again.

Road Trips en México

On September 17, 2022December 12, 2023 By Dani Francuz RoseLeave a comment

Our time in Mexico has been unique for several reasons (global pandemic anyone?), but honestly, one of the most notable differences is the fact that this is our first time living abroad with a car. While it seems like such a small thing, it has definitely changed many aspects of our day-to-day life here and has (very fortunately) allowed us to explore Mexico in a new and exciting way. Yay road trips!

Of course, at first, we found the thought of driving our car down to Guadalajara a bit daunting (not to mention keeping up with basic maintenance and handling any issues that cropped up totalmente en español), but after almost two years, I feel like we’ve now got a pretty good idea of what to expect on Mexico’s roadways. So, for this month’s post, I thought I’d share some of the things I wish we had known from the beginning, things that might help anyone else who is planning to drive around Los Estados Unidos Mexicanos.

Rules of the road:

First up, I have to mention some of the different (and sometimes unwritten) rules of the road here in Mexico. When we were first preparing to drive across the border, the main thing everyone kept saying was, “don’t drive at night”. It turns out that most of Mexico’s highways, especially those cross-crossing deserts and jungles, don’t have street lights, so it is really difficult (read: impossible) to see anything that might be in the road (be it half a tire, a pothole, an animal of some sort, whatever). We experienced just how crazy this type of driving can be on one early morning drive from Sayulita to Puerto Vallarta…not a very far drive, but jungle-y, hairpin turns and surprise speedbumps in the pitch-black darkness was not fun at all.

Another thing we learned on the fly was utilizing the phantom third lane. Since a lot of Mexico’s tollways are two-lane roads, which happen to have tons of semis and other big, slow trucks, drivers have come up with a solution, which I call the phantom third lane. Basically, everyone drives straddling the line that designates the shoulder, which creates a lot of space in the center of the road. People that need/want to pass can then use that middle “lane” to get around slower vehicles and then get back to the shoulder, so cars on the other side can have the same opportunity if needed. At first this scared the sh*t out of us, but now we love how efficient and consistent the process really is.

One last thing to mention about road rules in Mexico – pedestrians will be in the roads. In the cities, they’ll be there to clean your windshield, sell or replace your wipers, or entertain you with a bit of fire-dancing. In the countryside they’ll be crossing with a flock of sheep or flagging you down for some fresh fruit or nuts. And on the highways, they’ll be darting across to get to the bus stop or rest area, so be on the lookout for people crossing any and all roads at any and all times.

The roads themselves:

Now onto the types of roads. Immediately upon entering the highway system of Mexico, it becomes evident that there are two sets of roads: cuotas (tollways) and libres (freeways). The cuotas are often much newer, smoother, and in many instances straighter paths to wherever you may be heading, but they do come at a price. All along the tollways of Mexico there are casetas/plazas de cobro (toolbooths) which charge anywhere from 40-300 pesos (approximately $2-15USD). The tollbooths are very clearly marked, with prices listed for each vehicle type, and there are very rarely any issues, lines, etc. However, be prepared to pay in cash. Lots and lots of cash.

This is where a navigator comes in handy!

The good news is, it’s not only tolls that you’ll come across on the road. There is also a plethora of gas stations, rest stops, and roadside stands dotting Mexico’s highways. There are gas stations you’ll recognize (like Shell, BP, and Mobil) and some that are specific to Mexico (like the national chain Pemex). The major chains all have little convenience stores (usually Oxxos) and bathrooms, which are sometimes free and sometimes five pesos or 25 cents. One thing to be aware of, however, is that Mexico is like Oregon or New Jersey in that you can’t pump your own gas. When you pull up to the pump, someone will come over and ask which type and how much you want. They might also clean your windows and check your fluids for a tip.

In addition to the many places you can stop, go to the bathroom, and stretch your legs, Mexico also has several road safety services that you can use if needed. As you drive along, you’ll see emergency service numbers posted everywhere, which is super nice. You’ll also occasionally see the Green Angels themselves, which are roadside assistance vehicles that are supposedly bilingual and free. Thankfully we’ve not needed to use any of these services yet, but just the fact that they’re there makes me feel really good. Another interesting safety feature you can find along Mexican highways would be the water points, or places where you can get free, potable water if you ever run out. Desert driving has lots of potential hazards!

Why we do it:

With all the things that can go wrong on a road trip, especially one in an unforgiving and unknown environment, a lot of people wonder why we do it? Mexico has amazing long-distance bus services as well as super affordable domestic airlines, but no matter where you are, something about road trips just hits differently. Stopping when you want, snacking, blasting music, it’s all about the journey, right? Like most of North America, Mexico has an incredible diversity of things to see and do, and we wouldn’t have seen half of it if we hadn’t chosen to drive to so many places.

So, was there a steep learning curve? Sí. Was it worth every hard-earned lesson? ¡Absolutamente!

Quintana Roo – Mexico’s Caribbean Coast

On May 13, 2022December 12, 2023 By Dani Francuz Rose2 Comments

One of my goals for our time spent living in Mexico is to visit as many of the 31 states as I can. In fact, this lofty goal, coupled with the fact that my mother-in-law loves the beach, is what led us on our most recent adventure to Mexico’s easternmost state, Quintana Roo (pronounced “keen-tah-nah row”). Typically, we don’t spend quite as much time (two weeks!) in one state, nor do we often have the luxury of visiting four separate cities and two islands on one trip; however, we definitely wanted to be thorough here because these are some of the most popular tourist destinations both within Mexico and internationally! So, if you’ve always wanted to head on down to Riviera Maya, here’s my summary of what you can see, do, and expect:

Cancún / Isla Mujeres

Our first stop was in Cancún for many reasons. For one, Cancún International Airport is the second largest in the country, which means there are tons of flights in and out from a huge variety of locales. Another solid, practical reason to start in Cancún is the fact that it’s located at the very tip of the Yucatán peninsula, meaning flights from east of the Mississippi are quite short and very affordable. Personally, I also wanted to start in Cancún because I had (erroneously, as it turns out) thought that Cancún would be my least favorite of the cities on our itinerary, and I’m very much a save-the-best-for-last kind of person.

The Best Parts:

Speaking of bests, one of our favorite experiences in Cancún was kayaking among the mangroves in the Nichupte Lagoon. As a planned city, Cancún has several distinct “zones”, and the Nichupte Lagoon is actually what separates the Hotel Zone from the city center, making it very convenient regardless of where you’re staying. The lagoon is part of a protected reserve and boasts incredibly clear and calm water as well as a plethora of flora and fauna. Another must-do, as far as we’re concerned, is a catamaran ride to Isla Mujeres. On a whim, we booked an all-day package that included a catamaran ride, snorkeling through MUSA (an underwater art museum), an open bar, a buffet, and several hours of free time on the island. It was amazing! Dancing to the macarena with a group of strangers was the cherry on top of the perfect beach day. Of course, all the beaches on Cancún and Isla Mujeres are glorious. I have never felt sand so powdery soft or seen such beautiful water both on the shore and out at sea. I totally get why people fall in love with these beaches.

Things to Note:

For me, Cancún (and really all of Riviera Maya) is not the place to go for true Mexican culture. It is a tourist haven, and there are essentially zero Quintana Roo locals. Cancún, especially, has a bit of a Vegas vibe as the city is divided into the Centro and the somewhat remote Hotel Zone – the Hotel Zone being very much like “The Strip”. We actually learned the hard way that getting around Cancún isn’t as easy as it usually is in Mexico. Ubers are banned from the airport and the Hotel Zone, taxis do everything they can to ensure they’re getting their money’s worth, and the buses (while frequent) are quite crowded and more expensive than usual as well. The resorts can also be a bit of a headache for those who are staying downtown. Although, by law, all beaches in Mexico are open to the public, private hotels can and have put up walls that require a long walk around to specified access points along the Hotel Zone. That said, once you’re on the beach, you can walk anywhere you want, and there’s nothing they can do about it!

Playa del Carmen / Cozumel

Our next stop was Playa del Carmen, another resort-focused city along the coast and without question an integral part of the infamous Riviera Maya. As it’s only about an hour from Cancún, it’s really easy to travel from one to the other, and like Cancún, Playa del Carmen also has a famous island destination right off its shores: Cozumel. Interestingly, I had been to Cozumel as a pre-teen while on a family cruise, but to be honest, my memory of it was almost non-existent…maybe that should have been my first clue as to how I would feel about it as an adult.

The Best Parts:

But first, the positives. The center or anchor of Playa del Carmen is a long shopping/restaurant street called Quinta Avenida (5^th Avenue). Here they have everything from high-end malls to beach trinkets and 5-star dining to taco stands. We ate at Aldea Corazón, which had an absolutely delicious take on modern Mexican cuisine. They also have a waterfall and cenote in the outdoor dining area, so the atmosphere is as excellent as the food. After Cancún, it was nice that everything: hotels, restaurants, shops, etc. were all running parallel to the beach, just one block inland. I appreciated not needing any form of transportation while seeing the sights. Playa del Carmen is also beautifully placed directly between Cancún and Tulum, making it easily accessible from either direction.

Things to Note:

Okay, now I’ll be the first one to admit that sometimes you have bad days or bad experiences while traveling (it has definitely happened to us on more than one occasion), and it doesn’t usually affect how I feel about a particular destination. However, our time in Playa del Carmen, definitely had some extreme travel lows. Tourist scams are abundant, upcharges are frequent, and Cozumel is catered to cruise ships. All I can say, is you’ll have to pay A LOT to see and do things that were honestly better in Cancún and Isla Mujeres. Another thing to note (really in all heavily touristed areas/large cities) is to be aware of your surroundings. While we were in Playa del Carmen, we witnessed a serious street fight that got out of hand and could have easily escalated into something much worse. Remember it’s not only family vacationers that frequent high-end resort areas.

$25, over 45 minutes, blacked out windows…find another way!

Tulum

After our day in Playa del Carmen, we drove down to our next destination: the highly touted, Tulum. If you consume a lot of travel-related media (like I do), Tulum is/was most likely already on your bucket list as well. Mayan ruins on the cliffs, underground rivers and cenotes, eco-tourism at its finest! I think for this particular trip, Tulum was the city I was looking forward to the most.

The Best Parts:

The things that have put Tulum on the map are definitely the main reasons to visit. The Tulum ruins are incredible! There is so much history and beauty in these sites (although I do have to say that Uxmal, which is closer to Mérida in Yucatán, is still my favorite Mayan site. Yes, even over Chichén Itzá.) The cenotes, of which there are so many in this area, are also well worth the trip. Crystal clear freshwater swimming holes that have so many interesting facts and stories surrounding them – what’s not to love? Downtown Tulum isn’t quite as developed as either Playa del Carmen or Cancún, but the number of independently owned, vegan/vegetarian-friendly restaurants is certainly top notch. The main road through the city is the aptly named Avenida Tulum, but I highly recommend walking parallel to the main drag (on either side) to see a little more of the real day-to-day life of Tulum. And if you are planning to stay in Tulum, I cannot recommend Casa Libélula enough – such a beautiful little oasis tucked away in the chaos that is a burgeoning tourism hub.

Things to Note:

As I mentioned, Tulum is still a growing tourist destination, meaning there are some kinks they’re still working out. Sidewalks are mostly present, but not always, and the locals are still figuring out the right prices for their wares…in my opinion, they’re aiming quite high at the moment. Unfortunately, another thing that goes along with these up-and-coming tourist destinations is the yolo mentality (on both sides). The tourists are yolo-ing it up with a lot of noise and trash (and no resort personnel to clean up after them), and the vendors are making the most of a current fad that they know might not last forever by taking advantage when and where they see fit. In addition to the pandemic-related slump that has affected tourism globally, over the past few years, the Caribbean coast of Mexico has also been inundated with sargassum, or seagrass, and Tulum is unfortunately not immune.

Bacalar

Finally, our last stop on this epic journey, the future tourist hot-spot of Bacalar. Bacalar is about 4 hours south of Cancún, an hour north of Belize, and sits on the pristine Bacalar Lagoon. Unlike the other three cities we visited, Bacalar had not been on my radar until after we moved to Mexico. This is a favorite among locals, and anyone who visits can easily understand why. During our time in Bacalar, I actually felt quite sad thinking about whether or not it’s going to become the next Tulum or Playa del Carmen, but I have to think that it will always retain the special type of mágico that exists there now. ¡Ojalá!

The Best Parts:

Immediately, one of the best parts of Bacalar for me was that it felt much more like the Mexico that I have come to know. It is much more laid back (even with the growing tourism industry). Bacalar has a more traditional main square, an old Spanish fort, and plenty of places to just sit and chill out in the shade. Thankfully, price-gauging hasn’t become an issue in the local shops, and here, more than anywhere else on our trip, was my Spanish needed (as it should be!). Then there’s the lagoon itself. 42km by 2km (26mi by 1.2mi) of incredibly clear blue water (in fact, Bacalar Lagoon is known for having 7 distinct shades of blue). As there is a lot of shoreline available along the lagoon, it’s very common and affordable to stay right on the water, which is what we did. We stayed at Seven Blue House and had an amazing time swinging in hammocks on the dock, kayaking in the lagoon, and watching the sun and wind play on the water from our balcony right over the edge of the lagoon.

Things to Note:

Of course, with Bacalar being so much smaller than the other notable cities in Quintana Roo, the amenities are limited (no Señor Frog’s here!). It’s also not on the beach if that’s something you’re looking for. The lagoon is a couple of hours from the nearest Caribbean beach and all that accompanies it (like sand, for instance). Bacalar is also the furthest away from the big airports and most of the famous sites of the Yucatán peninsula, so if you want to do and see it all, Bacalar might not be the best home base for a trip like that.

TL;DR

Ultimately, this was a trip full of surprises for us, which shouldn’t actually be so surprising given all the expectations and preconceived notions we came into it with! In summary, I do feel a little guilty about how hard I was on Cancún (before I even visited) because in reality I enjoyed the variety it had to offer. Playa del Carmen isn’t really my vibe, but I can see the draw. I wish I had traveled to Tulum 10 years ago, but it’s still such a sight to see. And with Bacalar, the baby of Quintana Roo’s tourism industry, all I can do is wish it well, and hope it remains as unique as it is in this moment.

And with that, another extraordinary trip is in the books! Just so everyone knows, I still pinch myself quite often over the fact that we’re able to do and see all these amazing places. What an incredible planet we inhabit! Hopefully everyone reading this is currently planning their next adventure, but if not, I hope you enjoyed living this one through my eyes. Here’s to the next one!

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