Marvelous Morocco

Time seems to be flying as we scramble to catch up after our last whirlwind trip! Last month, we had the absolute privilege of spending almost two weeks in beautiful Morocco. This was our first time to Morocco, and actually our first time in Africa, so we were beyond excited and hyper-focused on doing and seeing as much as we could. To that end, we set out on completing a somewhat ambitious loop from Casablanca to Fes to Merzouga (and the desert) to Marrakesh and finally back to Casablanca. Whew, even typing it all out is a bit much! Anyway, here’s a little recap of what we did and what I would recommend to anyone traveling to Morocco for the first time. 

Casablanca

We didn’t choose to start and end in Casablanca for any reason other than that’s where the cheapest flights from Québec happened to be. But, of course, once we knew we were heading to Casablanca, we promptly watched the 1942 classic! Spoiler alert: modern-day Casablanca is absolutely nothing like the movie. Since we only had a couple of days planned here, we focused on hitting the highlights: Hassan II Mosque, Central Market, the port, Arab League Park etc.

I feel like Casablanca is the sort of city that would be great to live in, but not so great for tourists. It’s the biggest city in Morocco, and we totally felt that as we trekked from site to site. If you are touristing in Casablanca, however, I would definitely recommend Sky 28 bar. It’s at the top of the Kenzi Tower Hotel and gives you amazing views of the city and the coastline. We went at sunset, and it was such a great way to see all that city sprawl!

Another Casablanca recommendation I would readily give is the restaurant Le Cuistot Traditionnel. It might have been our favorite of the trip, mostly because of the amazing Moroccan food and beautiful décor, but also in part because of the amazing owner and chef. He actually used to work for the king of Morocco and had such an amazing collection of photos, mementos, and stories from that time – really such a cool guy and place!

Fes

The next stop on our itinerary was Fes (or Fez), which is one of the oldest cities in Morocco. I think this was the city I was most looking forward to before our trip because I was so excited to experience the medina. The medina refers to some 9,000 streets and alleyways that make up what I can only compare to a massive hedge maze, except these walls are stone, several stories high, and about 800 years old. “Bustling” just isn’t a strong enough word to describe the medina, which is home to approximately 100,000 people, most of whom must be merchants of some sort given the insane number of markets, shops, and stalls!

Walking around the medina was chaotic in the absolute best way. There are souvenirs, snacks, businesses, and historic sites all crammed into the narrowest of spaces, not to mention all the people shopping, taking photos, transporting goods, etc. Unfortunately, Google Maps is almost no help in navigating since the vast majority of the streets in the medina are too small to be on the map. For that reason and so many others, walking around Fes felt a lot like traveling back in time. Of course, eventually you’d spot some stainless-steel water bottles or personalized power banks and instantly be back in the 2020s.

In my opinion, the absolute best thing to do in Fes is to wander. Just walk around, get lost, find your way back again by recognizing some sign or stall, and ultimately soak up the chaos. I also think staying in a dar (a room in a local house) or a riad (an inn) is essential in Fes. Hearing families eating dinner, buying your water at a little window shop, and feeling the warmth of Moroccan hospitality was such a great part of our stay in one of the most unique places we’ve ever been. Oh, and remember to prepare yourself mentally for bargaining at the markets, you absolutely have to have your head in the game for that!  

To/From the Desert

The next part of our trip was a bit out of the ordinary for us. When we were planning everything, we knew we wanted to get out to the dunes, but we weren’t sure the best way to do that. Renting a car our first time on the continent seemed challenging, but doing a multi-day tour had us wary as well. In the end, we decided on a tour that doubled as transportation between two of the cities we wanted to see, and included most meals, tickets to the various sites, and lodging for the two nights. Given how cheap it was and the huge number of different companies and individuals offering something oddly similar, we were a little worried it was all a big scam…

But nope, it was just as amazing as all the reviews said it would be! Of course, I was still very nervous when we hadn’t heard from them by the night before out 7am departure, but once we were put into contact with our driver/guide, Mahmoud, I was completely at ease. He was so skilled at giving us the right amount of time in each place, sharing enough information to keep us interested and entertained, and juggling all the logistical tasks it required to transport 10 foreigners across the country and into the desert for three days and two nights.

It takes 7 hours to get to Merzouga (and the Chebbi dunes) from Fes and another 9 hours to get to Marrakesh, so we covered a lot of ground and a lot of points of interest, including some of my favorite: the monkeys in Ifrane, the Todgha gorge, the random espresso bar van in the middle of nowhere, and the ancient city of Aït Benhaddou. But of course, the highlight of this adventure was our time in the dunes. Riding the camels, watching the sunset and sunrise, sandboarding, a bonfire, drinks shared with new friends, star gazing – it was one of those travel experiences that seems totally unreal, and I can’t recommend it enough.

Marrakesh

Honestly, you’re probably thinking, how could we possibly top what we’d already enjoyed thus far in Morocco, and we were a bit worried about that too, especially since we were told by almost everyone we talked to that Marrakesh was their least favorite city in Morocco. We had heard Marrakesh was noisy and dirty and that the people there were pushy and impatient, etc. Well, I don’t know if we’re just weird, but Marrakesh was our favorite of the cities we visited, pretty much precisely because it was all those things and more! To me, it felt so utterly authentic in its own ancient-trading-center-turned-major-tourist-destination sort of way.

Much like Fes, Marrakesh also has a medina, but it’s actually much larger and thankfully fully mapped on Google Maps (plus one for navigation)! However, the medina in Marrakesh hasn’t banned motorcycles like Fes has, so it was a bit louder and dirtier. Of course, I found that more fun and probably more convenient for locals. We also found the people of Marrakesh to be super likeable! Maybe they seem pushy or impatient to some, but as city-people ourselves, we totally got it. We knew almost instantly that if we ever choose to move to Morocco, Marrakesh is the place for us.

Hopefully, we’ve already done our part in hyping up Marrakesh, but for some more specific recommendations, I’d say first, make sure you walk through Jemaa el-Fnaa (the main square) often and at all times of day. You’ll see so many things you’ve never seen before and might never see anywhere else! But if you don’t like people hawking their goods/services, then I advise you walk with purpose lol. You should also go to a hammam and get scrubbed down. You might feel awkward or unsure, but it won’t last long. Just take it all in and think of the stories you’ll have to tell afterwards. Other highlights for us in Marrakesh were the Marrakesh Museum, MK Rooftop, and basically any supermarket (their Carrefour is *chef’s kiss*).

As is always the case with our trip recap posts, there’s just so much I want to share, but then, I’d really rather you go out there and experience it for yourself! Morocco might seem daunting at first; I know there’s a lot of information online about it (particularly a lot of cautionary tales), but we found it to be a very welcoming place that really puts a lot of effort into making sure tourists are well taken care of! It’s simply marvelous really! Shukran, Maroc – until next time!

Ottawa is NOT Boring

When we first started looking into Canadian cities and where we might want to live, we were a little surprised to find that Ottawa has a reputation for being boring. In fact, one of its less-flattering nicknames is The City Fun Forgot, but over the two years we’ve lived here, I can honestly say I don’t get that at all! There is SO MUCH to do in and around Ottawa, and in order to do my part in shifting this perception, this month, I’ve made a list highlighting just some of the fun you can have in Canada’s capital city.

Food & Drink-related Activities

First up has to be food, right? In a city this diverse, of course there are tons of options. In our neighborhood alone we have not one, not two, but three amazing African grills, several French bistros, at least three fantastic Chinese noodle spots, a couple of taco windows, and more shawarma restaurants than pretty much anywhere else on the continent. But of course, there are plenty of drinks to be had as well! Here are just a few of my many, many food and drink-related suggestions for Ottawa:

Charcuterie at Prohibition
  • Try several of the city’s amazing restaurants. Some of our favorites include Sammi & Soupe Dumpling, Prohibition Public House, Metropolitain Brasserie, The King Eddy, and Bistro Coqlicorne.
  • Grab a drink at a local brewery or pub. Our absolute favorites are Brigid’s (which is located in the basement a beautiful old church), Spark Pizza, Overflow Brewing Company, D’Arcy McGee’s, and Mill Street Brew Pub.
  • Meet new people while on a Thursty Pedaler or Palapa Tour.
  • See the sights and share a snack or drink on a canal cruise.
  • Feel fancy (and productive) at a cocktail-making class.

Outdoorsy Activities

Canada, in general, is known for its great outdoors. Even in the city, there are tons of outdoor adventures you can have, and if you’re willing to drive (or ride) just a little outside of the city, these options truly multiply. Here are some of the most famous (and fun) outdoor activities you can do in and around Ottawa:

  • Drive, bike, or walk around Gatineau Park.
  • Complete a ropes course or simply zip-line from Ontario to Quebec.
  • Go skiing or snowboarding at one of five resorts all within an hour of downtown Ottawa.
  • Get out on the water (i.e. go rafting, kayaking, paddle boarding, sailing, skating, swimming, something!)
  • Take a hike. In the city, we love the Rideau River Trail, the Rockcliffe Rockeries, and Hog’s Back Park. Outside the city, it’s tough to beat Eagle’s Nest in Calabogie, but there are plenty of other, even closer trails that rival it.

Cultural Activities

If adventure sports aren’t really your thing, maybe you’d prefer to do something a little more cultural. Ottawa has you covered there as well. Ottawa has the most museums of any Canadian city, and as the country’s capital, there are more festivals, exhibits, shows, and other amazing events rolling through here than anyone could ever hope to keep up with! Here’s a quick look at some of the more cultural things you can do:

Enjoying Winterlude 2024
  • Attend a festival, such as Winterlude, the Tulip Festival, Bluesfest, Capital Pride, or any of the other countless festivals that are now synonymous with Ottawa. There’s actually a whole Wikipedia page dedicated to Ottawa’s Festivals, check it out!
  • Visit a museum or gallery. Our favorites are the National Gallery of Canada, the Canadian Museum of History, and the Canadian Museum of Nature, and the best part is these and many of the other larger museums/galleries have free admission hours each week.
  • Watch a live Art Battle.
  • Do some crafts or else buy some at one of the many local markets.
  • Participate in a community event. If you find a place you like in Ottawa, follow them on social media, and I guarantee at some point they’ll share an event that interests you. This is how we found ourselves eating pierogi and making pisanki at Wedel in Westboro last Easter.

Game-like Activities

If you know me, you know I love games, and luckily, we’ve found a plethora of game-like activities in Ottawa as well. One of the many upsides to long winters is that people have to get more creative with their indoor time, and that is super obvious when it comes to indoor entertainment in Ottawa. Here are some of our favorite things to do when we want to play (or watch others play):

We ❤️ pub trivia!
  • See how much you know at pub trivia.
  • Escape from one of the many escape rooms in the city. I personally love Escape Manor because they have a super cool speakeasy-type bar and other fun games and activities like bocce ball and interactive darts.
  • Play one of the thousands of games (both tabletop and video) that they have at Level One Game Pub.
  • Watch a sports game. Extra points if you support the Ottawa Senators, Redblacks, or Titans because we do too!
  • Enjoy a round of Bingo or two.

Just-plain-fun Activities

If you’ve already had your fill of all the food/drink, outdoorsy, cultural, and game-like activities on offer, might I suggest a few more things that might not fit neatly into one of those categories, but are still so much fun to do in and around Ottawa:

  • Head to a sugar shack for an incredibly unique Canadian experience.
  • Relax at a nature spa.
  • Drive through Park Omega.
  • Interact with a movie at Bytowne Cinema. Drunken Cinema Night is so much fun, but they also have High Tea Sundays, Sing-a-longs, Sleep-overs, and other fun events every month!
  • Take a free city walking tour or a DIY city murals tour.

I hope this is enough to prove to anyone that Ottawa is absolutely NOT boring. But if you still have doubts, I invite you here to see for yourself. I promise, you won’t regret it!