Somehow this month marks ten years since Tucker and I first sold most of our belongings and moved abroad. We really had no idea what we were getting into or how we were going to maintain the kind of life we knew we wanted, and even now, I’m not sure I could tell you how exactly we’ve managed to continue moving abroad again and again. I think it’s mostly been an experiment in just how flexible we can be, which is fitting because that’s one of the first skills you develop when you move abroad!
Over the past ten years, we went from the US to Poland and back to the US (to pay off all our student loans), and then we headed to China for a few years and then back to the US (this time for global lockdown), and then onto Mexico, and now Canada. It’s been a crazy decade to say the least, but the places we’ve lived and the people we’ve met have continued to shape us year after year in innumerable ways. And for this month’s somewhat reflective post, I want to share some of the many ways we’ve changed and grown as a result of our expat ways.
Not so young anymore!
We’ve become flexible to the extreme
As I alluded to earlier, when I think of the many skills we’ve developed as a result of moving abroad, flexibility has to be at the top of the list. Whether it’s little things like using Celsius with some people and Fahrenheit with others or big things like not knowing where we’ll be living next year, we’ve gotten incredibly good at going with the flow. When I look back at my early observations from our first year abroad, it always makes me laugh at how hard it was for me to relinquish control. Now I feel like I struggle when I have too much control! It seems I’ve really grown to love letting the universe decide for me.
We’re totally fine with ambiguity
Another early observation I often made had to do with not always understanding what was going on around me. In unfamiliar places with new languages and customs, the level of ambiguity you experience on a daily basis skyrockets. Are we supposed to do something here? Should we ask about that? What does this mean? Questions like these and general uncertainty used to plague us. Until they didn’t. Until we learned that there’s really no wrong way, only different ways. Eventually, we also learned the difference between being expats as opposed to pioneers. Expats get to rely on the experiences of those who came before them, and we definitely do. But if/when that fails, we’ve also learned to simply accept not knowing.
Blissfully unaware as usual
We’re stoic bureaucracy-handlers
One of the most taxing parts of maintaining legal status as an expat has to be all the paperwork: visas, residencies, IDs, taxes, health cards, driver’s licenses, bank accounts, etc. The list is never-ending. After so many years and so many forms and appointments, I can very confidently say that bureaucracy is messy and incredibly frustrating everywhere. We now just assume every process will take a few attempts and several months (if not years) of our lives, which has really helped set expectations and allowed us to remain stoic and unfeeling while jumping through hoop after hoop after hoop. Government office waiting rooms are great places for mindful meditation, you know.
We’re accidental minimalists
In addition to becoming masters at handling immigration processes, we’ve also become expert movers. We know exactly what we need and want in our homes, and over the years, we’ve shed all the fluff. And whenever we happen to collect additional fluff, we’re systematic and unsentimental in removing it before the next move. People are often surprised that we’ve moved countries so many times with nothing but suitcases. Quite a few suitcases, but still. It’s actually pretty easy to do when I remember all the things we took on our first move that we never used. Or when I remember all the things we’ve used in a particular place that wouldn’t make sense anywhere else. These days we tend to take a lot more art with us and a lot fewer dead appliances.
We’re expert home-makers
Speaking of homes though, we’ve had a lot of them over the years. From country to country or even apartment to apartment, every place we’ve lived has always felt like home. Early on in our expat experience, someone advised me to prioritize setting up our home because we’d be surprised at how quickly “later” becomes “never”. Well, we took that to heart and always make sure our apartment is set up before tackling other tasks. We also work really hard to make sure we feel at home in the community as well, which means joining groups, meeting neighbors, learning names and faces. It can be difficult being the new people in town, but we’ve found the quicker we reach out, the quicker we feel at home.
We’re nothing if not adaptable
Another skill that makes itself known every time someone visits one of our far-flung homes is our adaptability. No dishwasher? No problem. Drinking hot water in summer? Sure, why not? Have to do everything over the phone? Got it. Everywhere we’ve called home has changed us in so many ways. Sometimes we forget what was normal for us before moving abroad because we’ve so strongly adapted to several different lifestyles now. This is how I know it doesn’t really matter where we live or what we do because the skill of adaptability is such a broad and encompassing one, that I know we’ll be just fine anywhere.
We’re always adopting new habits
Likely due to all the adapting we’ve had to do over the years, we’ve also gained quite an assortment of international habits. For example, at some point, we became a strict no-shoes-inside household, and when I think back to all the shoes that walked across our carpeted US apartment floors, I shudder. I also can’t believe we lived 25 years without an electric kettle! You’ll have to pry that out of our cold, dead hands now. Similarly, after living in both tea and coffee cultures, we now find ourselves enjoying both regularly. We also find ourselves checking sunset/sunrise times, the weather, and the air quality index more than most, which are all habits we picked up in different places at different times. It’s interesting to note which things stay behind in the places we leave versus which ones we take with us as the ghosts of homes’ past.
We’re an interesting mix of cultures to say the least
Similar to our eclectic mix of habits picked up from around the world, I would say that we ourselves have ended up a strange mix of all our homes. It’s rare that someone immediately places us as American. Even when hearing us speak, our accents don’t give much away, especially when speaking something other than English (you’re likely to hear a very strange combination of linguistic features depending on the day). We also have very strong inclinations toward European showerheads, the use of chopsticks, and what should and should not go on a taco. We self-identify as Polish-American-Canadian-Tapatío laowais, and we’ll happily talk your ear off about life in Poland, the US, Canada, Mexico, and/or China because each of those places is a part of us and always will be.
We’re excited to make every day an adventure
All these fun little quirks keep us tied to the places we used to call home, but one of the best parts of being a perpetual expat (no matter where we are) is the fact that every day becomes an adventure. The smallest tasks are new and exciting, and we never know what we’re going to learn. This is really why we keep doing it; why we haven’t “settled down” yet. We’ve learned to love the daily micro-adventures and mini-challenges that keep us on our toes and forever entertained. Every time we start over in a new place, we get to experience so many firsts again. We get to find a new set of favorites and develop new habits that only enhance our lives. An adventure a day certainly keeps the boredom away!
Definitely never boring!
We’re constantly learning and reflecting
And last, but not least, all this moving and growing and changing allows us to continually learn and reflect. Before each move, we get to look back at our time in a given place and reflect on everything we did, all the changes we experienced, and what we could or should have done differently if given the chance. And then…we get another chance! I sometimes refer to Poland as our “first pancake” because with hindsight, it’s easy to see how we’ve continually gotten better at being expats. All these skills (and more) have been honed over the years, and we’ve learned how to make the most of our time in the places we call home. Of course, we also realize just how lucky we are, so to all our homes: thank you, dziękuję, xièxie, gracias, and merci for the best decade of our lives!
Now that I’m an official Québec City tour guide, I’ve realized that in-person walking tours can be a little overwhelming — in the best possible way, of course! There are so many names, dates, stories, and details coming at you all at once. So, I created this virtual tour as a way for people to revisit the incredible history that makes Québec City such a unique place to explore. But even if you haven’t taken the tour yourself, I hope you’ll still enjoy discovering these stories and learning more about the history behind my adoptive home.
Stop 1: Parc des Gouverneurs
I like to start our tour at the Parc des Gouverneurs, which sits right next to the famous Château Frontenac and has a beautiful view of the Saint Lawrence River. I think this is a great place to begin because from here, you can see both sides of the river and Île d’Olréans, which is the official start of one of the largest estuaries in the world. An estuary is where a river turns into an ocean, and this particular narrowing is precisely why Québec City is where it is, and it’s also how the city (and the province) got its name. Quebec means “where the river narrows” in Algonquin, highlighting the first group of people who called this region home.
Of course, it didn’t take long for other groups to see the potential of Quebec, starting with the French in the 1500s. Due to its strategic location and striking natural features, early explorers found Quebec to be the perfect place to stake a claim. Here, they had access to the already-established trade routes, and they were in the most easily-defensible position in the region. Jacques Cartier was the first to come and go a few times, staying just long enough to NOT find any diamonds, yet name the rocky cliff Cap Diamant anyway, but it was Samuel de Champlain, who really stuck it out and is credited with the official founding of Québec City in 1608.
Along with a small group of initial settlers, Champlain built the first habitations in Québec and quickly became known as the Father of New France, which is why we see his face everywhere around the city. Well, not his face exactly. Unfortunately, Champlain never had a portrait done, so we don’t actually know what he looked like. When the city started putting up statues of Champlain, they had to model them after another noble-looking French guy instead, so in all the artwork, statues, and history books, the man you’re looking at is not actually Champlain, but at least they’ve mostly stayed consistent with the image!
Of course, one of the most striking elements in Governor’s Park has to be the Wolfe-Montcalm monument. The second-oldest war monument in all of Canada, this impressive obelisk commemorates, arguably, the most important battle in Canadian history: the Battle of the Plains of Abraham (1759). This was such an important battle because it was the catalyst that led to British, as opposed to French, rule in Canada. Interestingly, for such an important battle, it didn’t actually last very long, only about 20 minutes from the point at which the two sides met on the battlefield. However, regardless of the outcome, both Wolfe (the English general) and Montcalm (the French general) were highly regarded by their men, and both are well-represented throughout the city today.
Stop 2: Château Frontenac & Dufferin Terrace
Okay, our next stop, of course, has to include the infamous Château Frontenac, allegedly the most-photographed hotel in the world! The oldest sections of the Château Frontenac were built in 1893, and despite the name, it has always been a hotel, never a true castle. Like the Château Lake Louise in Banff and many others across the country, the Château Frontenac is a Canadian Pacific Railway Hotel, all of which are incredible pieces of architecture initially built to generate passenger traffic for the transcontinental railway network that was completed in 1885.
Like many of these grand hotels, the Château Frontenac was built in several stages, and interestingly, the main tower (arguably its most distinguishing feature) was not included in the original section. It was added to the structure in 1924. The most recent addition to the hotel took place in the 1990s with the addition of the pool, spa, and fitness center because modern amenities are a must for that coveted 5-star status! As you can imagine, many famous people have graced the halls of this amazing building over the years: Queen Elizabeth II, Winston Churchill, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Princess Grace of Monaco, Charlie Chaplin, Céline Dion, and Paul McCartney, just to name a few.
But what about the “Frontenac” part of the hotel’s name? Where does that come from? Well, Louis de Buade de Frontenac was a former Governor General of New France, and he was the one in charge when the city faced one of its first major attacks in 1690. Frontenac knew the young colony wasn’t fully prepared to take on the English at this point, so when one of their ships pulled up, he used a bit of psychological warfare to win the day. He gave his iconic “I’ll answer the with the mouths of my cannons” line after blind-folding and tricking their envoy into thinking Québec was much more battle-ready than it actually was. Frontenac’s bold actions and pivotal role in early New France made him a fitting namesake of such an impressive hotel.
Right in front of the Château Frontenac is where you’ll find Dufferin Terrace, a 430m (1400ft) long boardwalk that runs along the edge of Cap Diamant. From here, you can see the Citadel perched even higher on the cape as well as the only still-functioning cannon in the city, which is fired every day at noon, so be sure to listen out for it! From here, you can also see the city’s beloved toboggan slide. Built in 1884, the slide is open all winter long, and thanks to its steep angle and long icy track, riders can reach speeds of up to 70 km/h (45mph)! The slide is super popular during Winter Carnival, which happens every year in February, and if you like ice castles, ice sculptures, ice canoe races, and/or signature cocktails, you absolutely have to come back and experience it all for yourself!
Also, along the boardwalk are a series of glass skylights, where you can catch glimpses of what is left of the original Fort/Château St-Louis, some of the first constructions built on the cliff. And at the other end of Dufferin Terrace, near the top of the funicular, there’s a large statue of Samuel de Champlain (well, at least one representation of him). This statue was added to the boardwalk in 1898 and was designed by an architect who survived the Titanic disaster. Lucky guy! The stone that makes up the base of the statue actually comes from the same quarry as the stone used to build the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and the woman kneeling there is actually a personification of Québec City itself. If you look closely, you can see her crown is made up of the city’s famous walls.
Stop 3: École des Ursulines
Our next stop is the École des Ursulines, which began as a monastery that was founded in 1639, making it the oldest educational institution for girls in North America. One of the founders was Marie Guyart (aka Marie de I’Incarnation), a French widow turned nun, who came to Québec to educate young girls in the new colony. Because she had been married before and still had a son in France, she wrote thousands of letters about anything and everything that pertained to her daily life in New France: her work at the school, the indigenous girls she met, the battles that took place, and many other events that historians are still pouring over. For her contributions, she has also been memorialized across the city and beyond.
The school that the Ursulines started way back in 1639 is still a functioning school today, and in 2010, it started accepting boys as well as girls into its ranks. Throughout its history, the Ursulines’ school has always been known to be quite progressive. The early nuns learned many indigenous languages themselves, and they were among some of the first to teach girls subjects like arithmetic, astronomy, and chemistry. While the school is still going strong, the monastery is actually undergoing some major changes. The last of the remaining nuns, who are all quite long in the tooth now, officially moved into an assisted-living facility in 2018, and the complex is now in the process of becoming an archive of all the documents, artwork, and artifacts that have been collected by the nuns throughout the years. During this shift, there was one other important change to be made: the relocation of General Montcalm’s body.
Although the Battle of the Plains of Abraham was brief, it had a tremendous effect on Québec. During the battle, General Wolfe died on the Plains right after finding out the English had succeeded. General Montcalm was also shot during the battle, but his men were able to retreat with him back into the city. Unfortunately, he wouldn’t survive either, and the French had to quickly find a way to protect his corpse and his memory amid the British takeover. This is how he came to be buried beneath the floors of the Ursuline Monastery. That is, until 2001 when the city decided to relocate his remains to the cemetery where all his soldiers were buried, rightfully reuniting the general and his men almost 250 years later.
Stop 4: City Hall
Now we’re at Hôtel de Ville de Québec otherwise known as City Hall. Originally, there was a Jesuit College here, but after the British took over, it was converted into a military barracks. In the late 1800s, the building had been left abandoned, and the city chose to demolish it and build anew. From here, you can also see many different flags, such as the Canadian Maple Leaf, the Quebec flag, known as the fleurdelisé, and the flag of Québec City, which is dark blue with a golden ship (Champlain’s “Don de Dieu”) surrounded in the city’s fortifications. Across the square, you can see another series of flags representing the different Francophone groups of Canada: Acadians, Quebecers, Franco-Ontarians, etc.
It’s here that I often get questions like “If the British took over 250+ years ago, why is Quebec still so French today?” Well, I’m glad you asked! Surprisingly, it’s because of the US. In the 1760s, the British had just taken control of Quebec, and they were so afraid the French would join the Americans in their quest to kick the Crown out of North America that they signed something called the Quebec Act, which was essentially a pact allowing Quebec to keep their language, religion, and local laws so long as they didn’t fight against the British. Well, they never did and have kept their French-ness ever since! Vive la difference!
From City Hall, you also get a great view of the tallest building in Old Québec: the Price Building. Built in 1929 as a paper manufacturing company’s headquarters, it has a bit of a checkered past. Of course, the timing of the build wasn’t great (Stock Market Crash, anyone?), but the building itself was also hated by locals almost immediately. They felt it was incredibly ugly and just out of place in Old Québec, which actually led the city to pass a law banning any buildings over seven stories within the fortifications. Luckily, the city has grown to love the Price Building over time. It now serves mostly as office space, except for the top 2 floors, which is where you can now find the permanent residence of the Premier of Quebec.
Stop 5: Notre-Dame de Québec
Next stop: church. La Notre-Dame de Québec to be exact. Although it’s not the exact church that was built by Champlain, it does sit in the same location, making it the oldest parish in the city (and thus in all of Canada). And with such a long history, Notre-Dame de Québec has a ton of interesting stories and facts surrounding it! First, it has burned down and been rebuilt at least four separate times since its original 1647 construction date, which is pretty impressive in and of itself. You might also notice that there’s only one completed bell tower giving the church a unique, asymmetrical look. Well, that was actually due to a miscalculation on the architect’s part, which resulted in it being deemed unsafe to finish. Oopsies!
And while it might not have all its intended bell towers, it does have something super rare: a Holy Door. There are only a handful of Holy Doors in the world, the vast majority of which being in Italy, so this one (the only one in the Americas) is quite special. What is a Holy Door you ask? Well, it’s a bit like a spiritual carwash, but it’s only opened on jubilees, so we’ll all have to wait a number of years for the chance to walk through it and experience its power firsthand. What I can say is that, currently, it’s sealed very much like the Pope’s door during the conclave, which is still pretty cool to see!
Another prominent feature of Notre-Dame de Québec is the funerary chapel of François de Laval, Quebec’s first bishop. Laval was another highly influential figure in the early days of the colony, and for that reason, his name is another you’ll see all over Quebec. Notre-Dame de Québec is both a cathedral and a basilica, meaning it has a highly important functional role as well as a special, Pope-granted status. It is still the official seat of the Archbishop of the Québec diocese and has been since the 1600s. At its height, the region that was overseen by Notre-Dame de Québec stretched all the way from modern-day Quebec down to Louisiana, which might give a brief glimpse into just how busy (and influential) Laval and his contemporaries were back in the day.
Stop 6: Séminaire de Québec
While we’re on the topic of the city’s religious history, we should also take a look at the Séminaire de Québec, which is right next door to Notre-Dame. The Seminary of Québec is often touted as the oldest institution of higher education in Canada, and its buildings still house several schools today, including many departments of L’Université de Laval, the first French-language university in North America and one of the oldest universities in Canada. Within the original Seminary complex there is also a private high school as well as a significantly smaller, modern seminary, which continues to educate future Roman Catholic priests to this day.
Speaking of priests, I should probably mention that despite all this talk of churches and seminaries, today, Quebec is actually quite a secular place. The region has an extremely Catholic-centered history; however, it also experienced a massive shift in religious identity starting in the 1960s when Quebec went through what is called its “Quiet Revolution”. It was during this time that the populace decided they had had enough of the Church’s influence on things like education, women’s rights, and politics, and instead of violently overthrowing anyone or anything, they opted to quietly step away, creating a variety of different public services and social policies in the process. Today less than 10% of Quebecers are practicing Catholics, which is why a lot of the religious buildings in the city have been repurposed into schools, libraries, and cultural centers.
One other thing of note here in the Old Seminary’s Courtyard is the amazing collection of architectural features on display. Throughout the city, you’ll notice a wide array of different building materials, styles, and structures, and this is partially due to the very distinctive French and British periods. Here, you can see a great example of what the early French period architecture looked like: steeply pitched roofs, unadorned windows and doors with small panes of glass, and natural stone walls covered in a thick white wash that helped to waterproof the structures. You can also see some British additions with their larger, more uniform stone blocks, double-door entryways, larger window panes and architectural details like arches and balconies. As you walk through the city, you’ll see an incredible mix of these features as well as more modern trends, which just goes to show how much change Québec has seen throughout its many years.
Stop 7: Montmorency Park
Now we’ve officially started our decent into Lower Town. From here in Montmorency Park, we have a great view of the Château Frontenac and some of the oldest of the city’s fortifications. The first fortifications of Québec were built in the 1600s, but others weren’t completed until much later. In fact, the city wasn’t 100% walled-in until after 1820 when British troops finished the job. It was quite a job, too, because the walls stretch over 4.5 kilometers (3 miles). At one point, there were over 300 cannons lining the walls, which really highlights the fact that Québec was chosen with defense in mind.
Of course, eventually, the battles came to an end and things started settling down in North America, and Quebecers had to decide what they wanted to do with their fort of a city. Many wanted to tear down the walls and start over with more of an open-concept. However, one of Canada’s early Governor Generals, Lord Dufferin, had a different idea. He had traveled extensively and knew that Québec’s walls were an architectural jewel that needed to be preserved, and thankfully, he was able to persuade everyone else. By preserving the fortifications, enlarging the city gates, and building a massive public boardwalk (one that is now named in his honor), Lord Dufferin ensured Québec City would be welcoming tourists long after he was gone.
Looking around Montmorency Park, it’s not too hard to imagine it as it was in the past, a blank canvas of farmland. This is actually where the first farm in New France was located, which was created by two of the early settlers: Louis Hébert and Marie Rollet (other famous names of Québec). As the farm gave way to more modern building projects, Montmorency later became the site of the first parliament buildings of Quebec and later Lower Canada. In 1864, the British North America Act, a founding document of modern-day Canada, was actually drafted here. Unfortunately, a fire destroyed the last of the buildings in 1883, which is when the city decided to move Parliament outside the Old Town, a little further from the cannon fire (better safe than sorry, non?).
Stop 8: Casse-Cou Stairs
As we continue to make our way down, you really get to feel the immensity of Cap Diamant! Upper Town sits about 60 meters (200 feet) above Lower Town, which is why there are approximately 30 staircases throughout the city connecting the two. The oldest and most famous staircase is actually the one we just passed: Escalier Casse-Cou (or “Breakneck Stairs”). This staircase is located in the oldest part of the city and actually has a bit of a rough history. The stairs, much like the neighborhood itself, were often left in disrepair, which led to many accidents, thus the name. It’s hard to imagine now, but this neighborhood, Quartier Petit-Champlain, used to be the bad side of town. After the ship yards died out, all that was left was a bunch of brothels and bars, which is exactly why most Québec moms told their kids to stay away from this area!
That is, until the 1970s when a group of local entrepreneurs saw the potential and decided to take on the challenge. They bought up several buildings in the area, refurbished them, and started a co-op that invited local artists and artisans to live and work here in an effort to highlight Québec culture and revitalize an important and historical part of the city. They were extremely successful, and eventually the city joined in by refurbishing other parts of Petit-Champlain, making it a must-see part of the city today. I always recommend this area for its shops, restaurants, cafés, etc. Rue Petit Champlain is often said to be the first commercial district of North America, and looking at all the businesses here today, that’s easy to believe!
Speaking of businesses, another quite lucrative one can be found right at the base of Casse-Cou Stairs, and that’s the funicular (or inclined elevator). If you don’t want to take the stairs all the way back up, you can always let your wallet do the work for you! It’s up to $7 a person now, but at least you can rest easy in knowing you’re also experiencing a bit of history because the funicular dates back to 1879. It’s also located in another famous person’s house: Louis Joliet. If that name sounds familiar to you, that’s probably because he has cities named for him all over the US and Canada because he was one of the first to map the Mississippi River, and he grew up right down the street! How cool is that?!
Stop 9: Place Royale
But the heart of Lower Town has to be Place Royale (or Royal Plaza). This was where the first settlers stepped off the boat and began their lives as a new colony. The first permanent buildings (or habitations) were built on this square along with the first church of Lower Town (another one of the oldest churches in the country). Also in the square, stands a bust of King Louis XIV, and although it isn’t the same bust from the 1600s, there has almost always been a bust in that exact spot, forever linking the histories of Quebec and France.
Interestingly, the king never actually stepped foot in Quebec even though he was the lawful ruler during much of its early history, but he did manage to help the colony from afar. In those early days, the colony struggled with population issues. In particular, not enough women were there to ensure the desired population growth, so King Louis put his money where is mouth was and offered to give a sizeable dowry, free transport, and pieces of land to any women willing to journey to New France and start a family. About 800 women took him up on his offer, the majority of which being orphans, widows, or women of the lower classes who felt that this was their best option for a stable future. Over time, they became known as Les filles du roi (or the Daughters of the King).
These Daughters of the King made up such a large percentage of the early population in Quebec that approximately 2/3 of modern-day Quebecers can trace their linage back to one of these brave women. Many North American celebrities can do the same: Hillary Clinton, Angelina Jolie, and Madonna being among them. Honestly, Québec City has a lot of ties to various celebrities. Since the city looks so much like a movie set and also has the practical, money-saving advantage of being on the same continent as Hollywood, many movies have been filmed here over the years. Alfred Hitchcock’s “I Confess!” and Steven Spielberg’s “Catch Me If You Can”, for example.
Another standout feature of this square is the series of buildings all with different roofs. These were actually added during a reconstruction phase to show the evolution of changes the colonists experienced as they learned what worked and didn’t work in Quebec. You see, we get an average of 3 meters (10 feet) of snow every winter and temperatures regularly drop below -20°C (-5°F), which means in the early days, fireplaces were essential. Unfortunately, that also meant that fires were commonplace. Due to the compounding challenges of lots of snow, very cold temperatures, and the regularity of fires, there was a lot of trial and error needed, particularly with the roofs: cedar was too flammable, slate was too brittle, but it turns out, tin was just right, which is why it’s still one of the most common roofing materials in Quebec today.
Stop 10: Rue Sous-le-Fort
And now we’ve officially come to the last stop on this whirlwind tour: Rue Sous-le-Fort or Under-the-Fort Street. From here, we can see where the city meets the river. The ferry that travels across the St-Lawrence to Lévis (the oft-forgotten little brother of Québec City) is just down the road. Nearby, you can also find sunset cruises or whale watching tours departing from the quays; this is where the river starts opening up to the ocean after all. When there’s no ice in the water, you might also see cruise ships and yachts docking at the Old Port, which I like to imagine is just as exciting as when Champlain and other early explorers turned up in their ships.
From Lower Town, it’s easy to imagine how tough it would have been to take Québec City by sea. The British only managed a win because they fought on the Plains of Abraham (flat ground beyond the walls of the city). During the American Revolutionary War, Generals Benedict Arnold and Richard Montgomery thought they’d give it a shot, but it went very badly for them, and no one has tried since. It’s so amazing that everywhere you look in Québec City there’s another piece of the gigantic puzzle that is our history just waiting to fit into place. One of Québec City’s nicknames is The Old Capital, but I see it as more of an entryway. Here you can enter North America, but you can also enter the annals of history. Hope you enjoyed the journey!
We’re almost halfway through April, and we’ve now officially been living in Québec for six weeks, which is crazy since it feels like the move was just last weekend, but that’s how the first few months always go. We get caught up in a daze of setting things up, collecting documents, making appointments, etc. But luckily, this isn’t our first rodeo! Not only are we completely on top of all our paperwork and logistical tasks, but we’ve also made good progress on our observations list. So how different is Québec from Ottawa? Well, here are the first few things that have caught our attention:
The French
Of course, the absolute first thing on the list has to be the use of French. While Ottawa is fairly bilingual, and we definitely got quite a bit of French exposure there, English was still absolutely the reigning language, sometimes even in Gatineau (which is technically in the province of Quebec). In Québec City, however, we’re not only expected to use French 100% of the time, we’re actually legally required to after six months of living here, which is honestly really great motivation!
The Salutations
Living in multi-story apartment buildings means we tend to have a lot of neighbors, so we’re usually pretty quick to notice how (and how often) acquaintances interact, like in an elevator, the lobby, the parking garage, etc. In Ottawa, most people kept to themselves or smiled politely in passing, but here in Québec, it’s a steady stream of “bonne journées” and “bonne soirées” no matter how brief your interaction is. It reminds me so much of all the “buenos días” and “buenas tardes” we got in Mexico, and it immediately feels so welcoming!
We’re in a Port City
Ottawa is definitely a water city of sorts with two major rivers and a canal running through it, but Québec is even more water-forward. The Québec City icon is fittingly a ship, and with ferries being a common means of transport, international cruise ships docking nearby, and whale watching tours every weekend, we’re not just between rivers anymore, we’re practically seafaring. At least the seagulls make more sense here.
Bizarre Hours
I have no idea if this is a French thing or a Quebec thing or a Québec City thing, but we have noticed that stores, restaurants, and pretty much every kind of business here has bizarre hours. Monday 8:30-4, Tuesday 9-6, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday 10-2…I mean, what? Do they just like to keep us guessing or is there some hidden meaning behind these choices? We definitely need more time to investigate.
Definitely not easy to remember…
Laidback Vibes
This might have more to do with Ottawa being the nation’s capital and less to do with Québec, but we’ve definitely noticed things are a little less official here. Our car registration (ou immatriculation) is printed on regular printer paper rather than fancy cardstock, our lease paperwork was submitted while we were still missing a few things, and we’ve gotten several messages along the lines of “X will be sent to you at a later date”. Definitely feels like a slower pace here in general.
Flashing Green Lights
Another thing we immediately noticed (and subsequently had to google) are the flashing green lights or “advanced greens”. Very often in Québec, you’ll come to a stop light and the green light will be flashing, which we learned means it’s basically both a green light and a green arrow. Apparently, this is common in a lot of Canadian provinces (including Ontario), but we had never seen it or at least not regularly enough to really register a difference.
Pedestrian-friendly
Ottawa is pretty pedestrian-friendly as well, but in Québec (at least downtown) the crosswalks are set up to allow for regular double crossing. Instead of waiting for the lights to change and basically taking your turn to cross when the flow of traffic changes direction, cars will be stopped in all directions allowing people to cross diagonally if they want/need. This and the no-touch crossing sensors make this particular pedestrian so happy!
Vestiges from France
I didn’t know how else to label this one, but smoking is much more common here. And by smoking, I mean cigarettes. We went from smelling a lot of marijuana in Ottawa to smelling a lot of cigarettes in Québec, and I can’t help but feel the cultural influences in that.
Drinking Culture
In a similar vein, Ontario seemed pretty strict when it came to alcohol sales/consumption. It was rare to see alcohol (even beer and wine) sold in stores, but in Quebec, that’s the norm. BYOB is also more frequent here, and it’s custom to bring wine to a park for a picnic.
Food Culture
We’ve also noticed a lot differences when it comes to food. The groceries here are overall cheaper, yet the selection of “fancy” food is definitely wider. There are like three types of caviar sold at the grocery store right next to our building, and if you wanted to try each type of cheese sold there, you’d need a few years. Restaurants here also seem to be a bit fancier – for example, there are fewer fast-casual options than in Ottawa, but way more multi-course menus.
Still a hard “no” from me though.
Louder
We lived downtown in both cities, and we’re used to hearing a fair amount of shouting, singing, and laughing (especially on the weekends), but I think Québécois voices are literally just louder. Now we can hear the actual words being said, and even the volume of regular conversations here seems to be louder than what we grew accustomed to in Ottawa. Probably still not as loud as our country of origin, but a noticeable difference from the last two years nonetheless.
Colder, Windier, & More Humid
We had our suspicions about the weather being more extreme in Québec. I mean, we are further north and east, both of which usually get hit pretty hard, but we kind of thought we’d need a few months before we noticed if it was really much different. Turns out, we didn’t need long at all. The added humidity and constant wind means that the same temperature feels quite a bit colder. We keep seeing temperatures slightly above freezing, and then step outside only to realize that the real feel is significantly lower. Damp, windy cold is definitely tougher.
Snow-ready
Of course, both Ottawa and Québec are great at handling large amounts of snow, but it seems that they tackle the problem in different ways. Ottawa LOVES salt. The city and its inhabitants go hard on salting everything. Québec uses a mix of salt and sand, meaning that things are a bit slushier here. And maybe for that reason, it’s really common for buildings and houses here to put up tents in their driveways/entryways to keep the slush (and additional shoveling) at bay.
So that’s what we have on our list so far, but as usual, we plan to keep learning and sharing as we go. I’m sure by now it’s pretty apparent that these little differences are one of our favorite things about moving to a new place. Even one province over, there are just so many things to observe! How cool is that?
We did it! We took a 4-day trip to Yellowknife, Northwest Territories in February with only a backpack each and the clothes on our backs. Did people question our decision? Yes. Did our friends and family worry about us when checking the weather? Yes. Would we do it all again? Gladly! Yellowknife exceeded every expectation we had for it, and in this month’s post, I’m going to share some of what surprised us so much about this city in the far north of Canada.
The Remoteness
The first surprise actually came when we took a closer look at our flight times. Of course, we know Canada is huge, but we weren’t flying from end to end, more like from east middle to north middle. Regardless, we were in the air for over 7 hours to get from Ottawa to Yellowknife. It would have been faster to fly to Europe! We also flew in on a prop plane, which was another indication that we weren’t headed to a super populous place. And when we looked out the windows of that prop plane and saw literally nothing from Edmonton to Yellowknife (roughly 1,500 km), the message really sank in: we were in the middle of a vastness I’m not sure we’ve ever experienced before.
While we did end up feeling very isolated at first, the longer we were in Yellowknife, the more it felt like, well, Canada. We stopped by a Shopper’s Drug Mart, we got President’s Choice brand snacks, and we still had français to read on all the signage. We were also surprised that the prices of things weren’t as high as we had thought. We had been sure we’d see a crazy increase on all the groceries and food stuffs that had to be shipped in from beyond far away, but it really wasn’t too bad. There were definitely limited options, but overall, not too different from a similar sized city in Ontario or Quebec. The only thing that really stuck out as being outrageously priced was any beer outside of NWT Brewing Co. At one restaurant, we saw $14 Heinekens! Talk about not worth it…
The Cold
We specifically chose to go to Yellowknife in winter because we like the cold, and we wanted to experience the extreme cold of the Canadian hinterland. For weeks ahead of our trip, we tracked Yellowknife’s weather, so we could be as prepared as possible. We had already been to places like Bergen, Norway and Ushuaia, Argentina in their respective cold seasons, and we took those trips without boots or proper winter coats, so all things considered, we were absolutely better equipped for this trip than any that came before it. But did that really matter when we were standing outside in “feels like” -50°F? Not so much lol. We had actually heard several times, from several different people that after you get below -30 or so, it all just feels cold. However, I very much beg to differ; -40 definitely felt much colder than -30.
FahrenheitCelcius
Fortunately, some things did come back to us when dealing with the extreme cold. We remembered the feeling of our eyelashes and nose hairs freezing. We quickly remembered the importance of breathing through your nose only. And once again, we fell back on the age-old lesson: you get what you pay for. Our $30 thermal socks have probably saved a few toes at this point. If I could give any advice to future Canadians or fellow cold weather travelers, you’re absolutely better off buying the expensive gear from the start – it’s expensive because it’s truly the only thing that works.
We learned some new things during our time in Yellowknife as well though. It seems we do, in fact, fear the cold a lot more than the average NWT visitor (let alone resident/native). We opted to take the car pretty much any time we left after dark, mostly because that scene in “To Build a Fire” constantly replayed in our heads every time we took off our gloves! Also, you absolutely cannot function with glasses outdoors in Yellowknife, and even if you don’t need glasses, the cold weather can still really mess with your eyes. Our eyes struggled big time with the cold, the dryness, the ice crystals, the snow blindness, etc. It really felt like everything was out to hurt our eyes in Yellowknife!
The Lights
We have been super lucky with our northern lights sightings in Canada so far. Last May there was a big solar storm, and we actually saw them just about an hour north of Ottawa, so for this trip, we had our fingers crossed, but there wasn’t much pressure on the situation. And maybe that was key, because three of our four nights were full of gorgeous light shows. The colors were so much more vibrant and watching the lights spread out across such an expansive sky was absolutely incredible. Something we didn’t even know to account for in Ottawa were all the mountains and trees that would occasionally block our view of the lights, but we didn’t have that problem when standing on a massive frozen lake!
And just in case I never get around to writing anything about northern lights viewings in general, there are a few things I would have liked to know beforehand. 1) You must let your eyes adjust to the lights. They seem faint at first, but the more you watch, the clearer they become. 2) They move really quickly across the sky and make all sorts of crazy shapes. 3) There is no “peak time” so to say. They’re somewhat like storm clouds; they appear and disappear based on solar activity, so any forecasts are bound to be unreliable at best. 4) The darker it is, the brighter the lights appear, but neither the darkness nor the intensity matter if it’s cloudy, so if you’re hunting northern lights, pick a place known for having an abundance of clear nights. 5) Pictures simply can’t do the lights justice, not even those that have clearly been altered.
The Dettah Ice Road
One of the most surprising experiences of this trip was our time on the Dettah Ice Road. When doing some research on Yellowknife, I came across the Dettah Ice Road listed as a tourist attraction and thought it sounded cool, but actually experiencing it and realizing that it’s not really a tourist attraction at all put it at the top of my list of reasons to visit Yellowknife in winter. The Dettah ice road is exactly what it sounds like: a road made of ice that leads to Dettah, a village southeast of Yellowknife. Usually, you have to drive about 27 km (17 miles) around Yellowknife Bay to get to Dettah, but in winter, since the Great Slave Lake completely freezes over, you can cut right across the bay and drive straight there (only 6.5 km/4 miles). The road itself is amazing! It looks like it’d be slippery or somehow feel different from a normal road, but no, it was business as usual driving across. Well, except for the blinding sun reflecting off the ice and all the cool photo ops along the way. Another incredible thing to experience!
The Yellowknives Dene
As part of our on-going comparison between Canada’s provinces and territories, we were excited to see the influence of the various indigenous groups of Yellowknife as well. Like a lot of Canadian cities, the name Yellowknife comes from a name given to a specific First Nations group, but unlike other Canadian cities, that First Nations group still makes up a considerable portion of the city’s population. Interestingly, the “city” of Yellowknife didn’t really exist until the gold rush of 1934, but the Yellowknives Dene had been settled there for hundreds of years; therefore, the majority of the region’s history revolves around these indigenous groups and how they helped outsiders acclimate to the extremes of the Northwest Territories. Today, their influence can easily be seen in the government, language, and culture of the region.
The Variety
When I shared our Yellowknife photos on social media, there were so many people who said things like “better you than me” or “too cold for me”, but I think the extremes are part of what makes Yellowknife such an intriguing destination. It was perfect for us, cold-loving freaks, but if you visit in August, you could be swimming in the lake rather than driving across it. The variety of activities Yellowknife has to offer is absolutely amazing, and that’s in each and every season. It’s not too often that Tucker and I make it back to a destination (at least not without many years in between), but Yellowknife might just be one we HAVE to see in another season. It also compelled me to move Whitehorse and Iqaluit (the capitals of the other two Canadian territories) up on our to-visit list, so stay tuned!
This was definitely a trip to remember, and for that, all I can say is a huge thank you to Yellowknife for treating us so well and an additional shoutout to all the winter gear we’ve been collecting over the last two years – it really came in clutch here!
Happy 2025! How strange to think we’re already a quarter of a century into this millennium. As I’ve shared before, I absolutely love this time of year, not only because I love winter, but also because I love beginnings. I find it really exciting to think about the year ahead and all the things we’ll do and see, and since we’ve got a few bigger changes on the horizon (as well as exciting travel plans, as usual), I thought I’d share a little life update for those who are trying to keep track of us, especially if you want to keep your address book current…which, honestly, good luck! 😆
Our Next Move
So, as you might have deduced, we are in fact moving again! We’ve been in Ottawa for just about two years now, so my feet are definitely starting to itch. Plus, I’ve been feeling extremely lazy as far as my language use is concerned. I mean, I could use French in Ottawa, but English is more common and obviously much less work for me; therefore, in addition to having a new home base to explore, I’m also looking forward to being forced out of my linguistic comfort zone much more frequently. So, with those things in mind, we have chosen to move to…drumroll, please…Québec City!
Look how pretty!
The good news is this move doesn’t feel quite as tricky as past moves because we’re only crossing provincial borders, not international borders, so there’s infinitely less paperwork! Hooray! The bad news is we decided on March 1st as our move-in day, so we only have 50-odd days to make this happen. Oh, and it’s the dead of winter. Good thing I like a challenge!
You might be wondering why we chose Québec City instead of Montreal or pretty much any another city in Quebec since they’d all meet our very basic requirements of A) somewhere we’ve never lived before and B) French-speaking, and, honestly, you wouldn’t be alone in that. Just like when we chose Ottawa over Montreal or Toronto, people were a little confused, and well, I guess we’re doing it again. What can we say other than I think we must just be drawn to over-shadowed cities. Also, Québec City is even further north, so I’m hoping for even more snow and longer, colder winters! Who’s with me?!
On the Job Front
The next most common question we get after “Why QC?” is “What about your jobs?” Well, Tucker will be keeping his current job, just as a fully remote employee (again). He was actually hired as a remote employee back in 2023, but it just so happened that the umbrella company of the team that hired him had an office in Ottawa, which is how he became a “hybrid” employee in the first place. Anyway, since his entire team is remote (and spread quite far across the US and Canada), he doesn’t expect much of a difference for him aside from no more snowy commutes.
My job situation is a little less obvious at the moment. Duolingo is…going through…some…things right now, and they have not opted to renew my contract (at least not yet…but also, maybe never…?), so I’m in somewhat of a transitional phase. I’m not sure if I want to continue freelancing/working remotely or if when we move, I might want to teach in-person again. Honestly, I’m also playing around with the idea of applying for literally anything bilingual in an effort to improve my workplace French, so really, who knows what I’ll be doing this spring, but if you happen to know someone who needs a Quebec-based linguist/teacher/writer, do let me know!
Guess it’s time to update all the things…
What about Jenn?
Obviously, Jenn will be coming with us to Québec City, and I doubt the slight change in climate and scenery will matter much to her. She’s definitely got her snow legs now, and her much-loved heating pad will be making the journey with us as well, so no worries there. We’re also only looking at apartments that have balconies, entirely so she can sunbathe in the summer months. Plus, we have promised her that we’ll choose somewhere nearer the equator after Canada, so she can officially start her retirement somewhere warm and sunny (as she should).
Looking Ahead
Of course, where that next place might be is still a bit of a mystery, even for us. We’re planning on spending at least another two years in Canada, which will hopefully allow us to gain citizenship, enabling us to come and go as we please (without having to keep up with the paperwork). However, to complete this process, we’ll have to reside in the country for over three years, apply, take, and pass an exam and interview, and then wait a bit longer for everything to process. So, for now, we’re keeping track of the various deadlines, continuing to learn what it means to be Canadian-American, and just enjoying our time in the Great White North.
Actually, with all this time on our hands, we’re now toying around with the idea of buying property here, fixing it up, and then renting it out when we leave. Unfortunately, I have such a fear of commitment and strings that I’m really not sure we’ll go through with it, but we do love a good project and doing anything new, so stay tuned! We’ll most likely rent for at least six months to a year before we’d take that particular step, but if we do, I’m sure I’ll have a lot to share about the process!
Other Fun Things
We have plenty of other fun plans for 2025 as well! Tucker is going to be putting in more effort on his French now (he basically has no choice); we both dabbled in running a bit more last summer and are eager to start that up again when the temperatures rise a bit; and as a surprise to no one, we’ve got a plethora of trips planned for this year. Next month, we’re off to Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories to hopefully see some more aurora and find out how much colder -40 feels. Then we’re looking at Newfoundland in the spring, Peru in July, Maine after that, and a family trip to Central America in the fall if we can swing it! And as always, our offer of hosting anyone who’s interested in visiting our home city is still good, so maybe we’ll see some of you in Québec City later this year!
Honestly, 2025 has a lot to live up to, but it’s off to a great start, and I can’t wait to see how it all shakes out! Happy New Year everyone!
Ah, December. The pinnacle of the holiday season, the last month of the year, and the official start of winter – yay! Last winter was our first in Canada, and we gleaned so much information. For example, we know that the first snow Ottawa had last year was on October 30th, and the last snow of the season was on April 24th. The coldest day was January 19th at -20°C (approximately -5°F), but overall, it was really a very mild winter. I, personally, hope this year we get a lot more snow and a much longer stretch of extremely low temperatures. How else will I put all our new northern climate knowledge to the test? Knowledge like:
Preparation is Key
One of the first surprises we encountered last winter was just how much preparation both the city and its inhabitants have to do before winter. Everyone started putting out salt chests and snow markers well before the first snowstorm. Businesses added tents and flaps to entranceways; boot trays and coat racks were everywhere, and we even saw insulated porta-potties at nearby construction sites. For our part, we were focused on acquiring all the right winter clothing, which I’m happy to say was well worth whatever we paid for it all! We also had to buy quite a few car accessories, such as shovels, scrapers, sand, winter tires, and non-freezing windshield wiper fluid. This time around, it has been less buying and more restocking, but still, the preparation really makes for a smoother transition.
Probably still quite cold…These things are everywhere!Time for the seasonal tire switchNow we have quite the collectionGreat for keeping the salt and any Amazon packages dry lol
Everything Takes a Little Longer
So many layers!
Even after all the preparation was taken care of, we were still surprised by how much longer literally everything takes in winter! Getting dressed, lacing up boots multiple times a day, warming up the car, walking carefully on the ice – it all adds up like we couldn’t believe! Maybe this year I’ll time how long it takes to get the three of us dressed and ready to go outside because I’d guess it’s an extra 10-15 minutes every time. The other time-suck that I didn’t even think about prior to having such long winters was how much more laundry we have. When you’re wearing so many more layers every day, it really turns into a mountain of laundry after just a couple of days.
Winter is Kinda Messy
This is why Canada is shoes off.
Having only lived in northern climates as a child (and/or for short periods of time), I was completely unaware of just how messy snowy winters can be. Everyone walks inside constantly dripping on the floor – the floors of restaurants, our building’s lobby, and worst of all, the entryway of our apartment. It didn’t take long for me to put an extra mat and towels by the door (yay, more laundry), but it doesn’t matter because there’s no containing it all. And you might be thinking, “hey, no big deal, water dries”, which is true, except this isn’t just water. It’s salted, which means everything gets a nice crusty white layer of salt even after it’s dry. The salt and sludge obviously got to the car as well, and we ended up having to get a carwash halfway through last winter because we literally couldn’t see out of the windows. I’m pretty sure I could count on one hand the number of times we’ve ever washed our car, and I would have never thought we’d have to wash it in the dead of winter!
There’s Quite a Bit of Extra Work
Okay, so we learned you have to prepare in advance, spend more time than usual, and always expect a mess, which, of course, requires some extra work, but the amount of extra work really kept surprising us! Scrape this, shovel that, clear a path for the dog to get to the “grass” because the snow walls are taller than she is! On and on it goes! Jenn, too, has to put a bit more effort into her daily tasks. She has to endure the multiple layers of clothing, scale snowdrifts when looking for a place to pee, and get wiped down whenever she comes back inside – all to her chagrin. On the bright side, I do feel like we still meet our exercise quotas because walking in the snow and scraping ice are definitely high calorie-burning activities!
So much fun!Good thing she’s adaptable!
So Many New Tricks to Learn
Another huge positive is that we developed a whole new set of skills. The best way to stomp excess snow off your boots? We know it. The best way to layer for easy transitioning between indoors and out? We’ve got it down. We’re also now very attuned to the sounds of the snow plows, which comes in handy, and I’m very happy to report that I didn’t fall on the ice even once last year (which I cannot say about our first Polish winter). I’d also add that we’re now very good at switching between Fahrenheit and Celsius, and we’re pretty much experts in interpreting the various weather alerts and winter vocabulary, regardless of the source. If you want to know more about the difference between hail, freezing rain, and sleet, I got you fam.
Lots of Surprises
All in all, I think we took everything pretty well in stride last year, but there were still a few things that we just didn’t believe until we experienced them ourselves. For example, our neighbors told us to watch out for the sunny days because they’re often the coldest, and wow, they were absolutely right! Apparently, clouds signal warmer temperatures – who knew?! We were also extremely surprised by how quick and easy it was to do some of the winter challenges, like freezing ramen noodles in mid-air. It took less than ten minutes! Another thing we didn’t think much about was how gas mileage would be affected, nor did we think we’d even notice if it was. Spoiler, we absolutely did. And perhaps most surprisingly, it didn’t take long at all for 0°C (32°F) to not really feel all that cold. After a week at -10°C (15°F), hovering right around freezing felt downright balmy.
Luckily, It’s Incredibly Fun and Beautiful!
I know most people reading this will say things like “that’s why I hate winter” or “I never want to live somewhere like that”, but even with these added challenges, we had an absolute blast last winter and are so eager to do it all again (hopefully just a little more efficiently this time). Winter is definitely still my favorite season even if it does require a bit more effort up here. In fact, I’d say we actually enjoyed it more because of those extra efforts. Ultimately, it was fun to slow down, get a little messy, and learn a plethora of new things. For me, winters like these are so fun and so beautiful that I quickly forget about any negatives. So, who wants to come visit us in January and see for yourselves? Our winter wonderland will be waiting!
It’s officially November, which means we’re situated about halfway between the two Thanksgivings, and I think that calls for another food-related post! About this time last year, I wrote about some of our most memorable meals, which was fun and nostalgic, but this year, I wanted a challenge. For this month’s post, Tucker and I debated long and hard to come up with a list of the top ten best things we’ve ever eaten (in no particular order).
Sounds easy, doesn’t it? It was NOT. We struggled with remembering, with choosing, and ultimately with agreeing on a mere ten dishes out of the thousands of meals we’ve enjoyed over the years. But the hardest part, by far, was realizing it’ll be years and years before we can taste all these things again! Ugh! Oh well, let’s all make ourselves hungry, starting with…
Chongqing noodles from pretty much any noodle shop in Chongqing, China
I am borderline obsessed with noodles. I eat them several times a week in one form or another, so of course, a noodle dish had to be on this list. Surprisingly, I didn’t have too much trouble in choosing my absolute favorite noodles I’ve ever had. Probably because I had them every day for about a week while visiting Western China. What makes them so special? If I had to guess, I’d say it’s a few thousand years of practice. But it might also just be the perfect combination of thick noodles, spicy sauce, and crunchy toppings.
La Sauvagine Fondant from St Hubert in Gatineau, Québec
A somewhat surprising and recent addition to our list is an appetizer we ordered on a whim just last month. We were at one of our favorite restaurants here in Canada and happened to see a melted cheese dish that looked intriguing. Well, not only was it intriguing, it was absolutely addictive! We actually went back and had it again the very next week, which if you know Tucker, you know how big a deal that is. La Sauvagine, the main component, is a soft cheese from Québec to which they add dried cranberries, bacon, pumpkin seeds, green onions, and maple syrup all melted together in a skillet and served with grilled ciabatta. Oh mon dieu!
Sonoran specialties from Mochomos in Aguascalientes, México
Next up is really more of the entire menu than one specific dish, but if we had to choose just one, we could and it would still be on this list. Mochomos is a Sonoran-style restaurant with several branches in North and Central Mexico. Their concept is “Requeza Sonorense” or Sonoran Wealth, which means they highlight the best ingredients from the region in a simple but elegant way. The cortes, or cuts of meat, are the biggest draw, and they are done to perfection, but the sweet and spicy sesame panela is the dish we found ourselves going back for.
Zupy i kotlety from Gospoda Koko in Kraków, Poland
This was one dish we had a little trouble naming, but it stood out so clearly in our minds that we had to put it on the list. Tucked away on one of the many side streets of Kraków’s Old Town, there’s a rustic-looking restaurant (think hay and chickens) that’s still using handwritten menus, and they make the most delicious, homey Polish dishes that we’ve ever had outside of a Polish home. Both times we were there we shared a bowl of rosół (chicken noodle soup) and a plate of meat, sauce, and potatoes, which we’re still trying to recreate at home…to no avail, of course.
Brisket on weck sandwich from Fat Bob’s Smokehouse in Buffalo, New York
Beef on weck is a Buffalo staple made up of thinly sliced roast beef served on a kummelweck bread roll topped with salt and caraway seeds, and it’s really good! But when a place takes an already delicious traditional dish like that and adds slow-cooked brisket to the mix, well clearly, they make our list of best things we’ve ever eaten! In fact, we’re planning on driving quite a bit out of our way just to get this sandwich the next time we have to go south. And if you’re ever there, don’t forget the extra jus and horseradish! So good!
Cuban plates from Old’s Havana in Miami, Florida
Cuban food, in general, is one of our favorites, so we have it fairly often (definitely every time we’re in Florida), and when thinking of the best plate of Cuban cuisine we’ve ever had, Old’s Havana is what comes to mind! It’s there that we had our favorite vaca frita, which is the most incredible mezcla of shredded and fried flank steak topped with sauteed onions and lime, and, of course, everything there is served with the equally delicious Cuban trifecta: rice, beans, and plantains. Also, I’d be remiss if I didn’t admit that the atmosphere of a place can totally affect how much we enjoy it, and Old’s is truly such a fun place that even if you didn’t like the food, you’d still love the experience!
Katsu from Katsukura in Kyoto, Japan
Japan takes their food seriously, and it definitely shows in their restaurant scene. Just like in Japanese architecture, there seems to be a focus on subtlety and presentation, which we absolutely fell in love with at Katsukura. The first thing we did upon sitting down at this gorgeous restaurant was grind a variety of sesame seeds by hand to make our own individualized dipping sauces. That freshness and attention to detail was also evident in each and every bite of our katsu (a panko-encrusted fried pork cutlet served with shredded cabbage). My mouth is literally watering as I write this…
Khao soi (made by Tucker) at Asia Scenic Thai Cooking School in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Next up is a dish made by Tucker with the help of Asia Scenic Thai Cooking School. For this one, we procured our own ingredients at a local market and followed along as a master Thai chef showed us how it’s done, and by the end of the class, we had one of our favorite dishes in the world made exactly how we like it. Khao soi is a coconut curry-based soup usually made with egg noodles (both boiled and fried), chicken, chilis, and lime. It is an incredibly unique and delicious dish that Tucker, to this day, has never been able to turn down.
Fugazetta from Lunático in Buenos Aires, Argentina
Another somewhat surprising addition to our list is fugazetta. This seemingly simple dish is an Argentine specialty made up of two pizza crusts stuffed with cheese and topped with caramelized onions. I know what you’re thinking, “How can that be special enough to make it onto our top-ten-of-all-time list?” Well, I don’t know what to tell you other than it’s absolutely delicious. The ratio of bread, cheese, and onion is sheer perfection, and the fact that it’s usually made in a woodfire oven, gives it an amazing charred quality as well. ¡Absolutamente delicioso!
Shopska salad from Restaurant Skopski Merak in Skopje, North Macedonia
And last but not least, my beloved shopska salad. I feel like I talk about this salad quite a bit, and I make a North American version of it just about every month, but the original just can’t be beat. The shopska salad originates from Southeastern Europe. We first had it in North Macedonia, and as soon as we did, we were hooked. It’s a mix of fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and sirene cheese (which is kind of like feta) dressed with sunflower oil, vinegar, and salt. It’s incredibly refreshing and is often served with a shot of fruit brandy, so really how could you go wrong?
And that’s it! Our official list of the top ten best things we’ve ever eaten as of November 2024! I really should start keeping a list of all future contenders, so this won’t be quite so hard next time. But honestly, who knows when that’ll be, so until then, bon appétit!
October in Ottawa is absolutely stunning, but I think regardless of the season, Ottawa might just be the prettiest place we’ve ever lived! But what about all the places we’ve visited over the years? To answer this extremely important question, Tucker and I scrolled through my Facebook albums to come up with our gut-reaction, top 10 prettiest places we’ve been list (in rough geographical order). It wasn’t an easy task, but somebody’s got to do it, right? Okay, maybe not, but it was still fun to do!
#1 Banff, Canada
As I think will become quite clear as this lists progresses, we love a good mountain scene, especially in fall/winter, which is why Banff had to be mentioned. Even before stepping foot into Alberta, we knew Banff was going to be pretty based on all the media constantly swirling around this vacation destination, but we were still absolutely blown away by the dynamic beauty of the Canadian Rockies.
#2 Moab, USA
If you’ve known me for any length of time, you know my favorite place in the United States is Arches National Park, located in Moab, Utah. I don’t know exactly what it is that I love so much, but ever since I first laid eyes on it (around 20 years ago, mind you), it has been one of my favorite landscapes in the world.
#3 Quintana Roo, Mexico
Although not usually beach people, Tucker and I have to concede that the beaches along Mexico’s Caribbean coast are simply on another level. Of course, it’s not just the beaches that we found so alluring – the cliffs, the cenotes, the lagoons, all of the nature and even some human-made structures in Quintana Roo really stand out to us on the prettiness scale.
#4 Cotopaxi, Ecuador
For pure, rugged beauty, there might not be a better example than Ecuador’s Cotopaxi National Park. Volcanos, calderas, pampas – even if you’re not a geologist, you can easily see the beauty these amazing natural features bring to the table.
#5 Ushuaia, Argentina
With beautiful snowy mountains, clear waters, and pink skies, Ushuaia is the closet you can get to Antarctica without a boat, and not only is it pretty, it’s pretty freaking awesome. Known as the “End of the World”, the remoteness only added to the beauty of this far-flung location.
#6 Bergen, Norway
Tired of snowy mountains yet? Well, what if we add fjords to the mix? Bergen is another place we’ll always mention when talking about gorgeous surroundings. Of course, we loved it in winter, but I have friends who visited in summer, and their photos also took my breath away!
#7 Skopje, North Macedonia
North Macedonia surprised us from the moment we landed. We ended up in Skopje because it was one of the cheapest places we could fly to at the time, and I’m so glad it was! The city is full of beautiful architecture, and with Matka Canyon only a short bus ride away, I’m continually surprised that it isn’t yet packed with tourists!
#8 Gorkhi-Terelj, Mongolia
Another one for the “rugged beauty” column, Mongolia is truly in a world of its own. More wide-open spaces than I’ve ever seen in my life and the bluest of blue skies gave us such a pretty picture of a place we never imagined we’d be able to see in person.
#9 Yunnan, China
As with several countries already on this list, sometimes we found it difficult to narrow down to just one region. China has a lot of extremely beautiful places, but the one that tops the list for us (excluding any biases, of course) is Yunnan. A province in the southwest corner of the country, it is blessed with an abundance of flora and fauna, and its capital is known as the “City of Eternal Spring” – it doesn’t get much prettier than that!
#10 Brisbane, Australia
And last but not least, Brisbane, Australia rounds out our list! It’s located between Sunshine Coast and Gold Coast, which even sounds pretty, but what struck us even more than the beautiful beaches nearby was the city itself. Gorgeous skylines, quirky architecture, and the only (and therefore most beautiful) “city beach” we’ve ever seen. Definitely worth the long trip Down Under!
Honestly, getting this list down to just 10 was really tricky, but in the end, I feel good about our choices. Of course, the pictures never really do the places justice, so if you can, I highly recommend seeing these beauties in person some day! If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a trip must be worth a million.
So, you may have noticed that we go on a lot of trips. I can tell you, very honestly, that I think about future trips pretty much every day. My mind is always putting together itineraries and thinking up plans for future adventures (both near and far) because I love every aspect of the process! However, I’ve noticed that some people get a little anxious when planning things either far in advance or far away, which is totally understandable. And if you’re one of such people, perhaps a little unsure of how to plan an international trip (or even if you’ve just wondered how exactly we do this so often and seemingly so quickly), this post is for you! Strap in, it’s time to plan!
Who?
We often start with the question of who. Is it just me and Tucker? Or do we have family or friends joining us? What about Jenn (our dog)? The number of people/animals and their particular interests and abilities often affect all the other questions, so first you have to know who will be with you.
When?
Next up is when. This is an important question both in regards to where you’re coming from and where you’re going. We always try to find a nice balance of traveling over a holiday (which means less PTO time needed) and avoiding the crowds at our chosen destination. Often this means choosing to travel over US-centric holidays like MLK Jr. Day, Memorial Day, the Fourth of July, etc. Our preferred duration is typically eight days (ideally Saturday to the following Sunday if we can swing it). If you’re leaving the continent, it’s also good to remember that the travel days to and from your destination won’t really feel like vacation, and sometimes it’s really nice to have an extra day after you get home but before you have to go back to work: aka a buffer day.
Traveling can certainly wear you out!
In addition to carefully picking our days based on the holidays being celebrated around us, we also have to be aware of holidays in the places we might be visiting. Those are usually pretty easy to check online, but we also try to be aware of the seasons more broadly, which can be a little trickier. Depending on where you want to go and what you want to do, you might want to avoid peak travel seasons (like Europe in summer), rainy seasons (like Central America in fall), or even seasonal extremes (like the UAE in summer or Iceland in winter). Ultimately, it’s a bit of dance between what you want to spend (because some seasons are pricier than others), what vacation time is possible for you, and what you want to do/see at your destination.
Rainy season. NBD, right?
I will just add that there’s really never a wrong time to travel. There are busier times, more expensive times, good weather days, bad weather days, etc. And unfortunately, no amount of pre-planning is going to stop the occasional storm from blowing in or that surprise festival/event from happening, so don’t sweat it too much! We once went to Fuji, Japan and didn’t see Mount Fuji. How iconic is that?
Where?
Now the big question. Where to? Usually, this is an easy one when it’s just me and Tucker because we want to go everywhere, but even we still find ourselves asking questions like where is the cheapest flight? Where can we do a lot in a short amount of time? And other similar questions. More recently, we’ve also been asking ourselves about priorities. Where are the places we want to go most? Over the years, we’ve realized that you never know when a global pandemic or political unrest might arise to make a lifelong dream of yours come to a crashing halt, so when choosing where to go, just know that you won’t remember the price of the plane tickets, but you’ll be telling stories about what you did and where you went for the rest of your life.
The surprisingly polarizing Bratislava
If you’re not as much of a geography nerd as I am, you might also just not really know what kind of places you’d even like. Or what it’ll be like when you’re there. Luckily, the internet has this well and truly covered – there are countless YouTube videos, blogs, websites, documentaries, basically anything and everything you might want to know about a given destination online, so you can always start there. Of course, recommendations are also great, but definitely take them with a grain of salt because everything about travel is highly subjective, and in my experience, no two people feel the same way about a place (just ask Tucker and I how we both feel about Bratislava).
If you’re still struggling with narrowing down all the options, I also think it’s a good idea to combine your other interests with travel, so if you like hiking/nature, maybe a trip to South America would be perfect for you. Or if you’re history buff, it’s hard to beat Europe. Foodies typically love Asia, and those really up for an adventure don’t mind the long flights needed to go trekking in Africa or scuba diving in Oceania. There’s really so much to see in every corner of the world, so again, don’t sweat it too much! It’s all about the journey not the destination, right?
How?
Speaking of the journey, once you’ve decided (roughly) where you want to go, how do you put it into action? The order in which we typically book things is pretty much always FLIGHTS -> LODGINGS -> EXCURSIONS. Essentially, I have an idea of where I want to go, very often the main country or region I want to see and a possible “home base” or “anchor city”, which is where we’ll fly in and out of, but until we officially look at flights, even that might change.
When we check the flights, we might see that it’s much cheaper to go to a different, nearby city and take a train to where I initially wanted to go. Or I might see there are a lot more flights to a different city in the area and start researching why that is, possibly choosing that as our base instead. We like to let the flights guide us somewhat, but if you already know where you want to go, just book it! Unfortunately, post-pandemic travel is super variable, and there’s no longer a reliable system of finding cheap flights. Gone are the days when leaving on a Tuesday or booking 4 months out might save you some money, so save yourself the headache and just book when it makes sense for you. We usually start our flight search on an aggregator site like Momondo, which allows us to play around with the days, times, and paths to find the best option, but when we do our actual booking, we prefer use the airlines’ websites because they’re much easier to contact if there’s an issue.
Just one of many similar sites
Once we’ve figured out how we’ll get in and out, we then work on where we’ll spend our days. If we’re somewhere like Europe and we can easily get from city to city or even country to country, I might split the trip into two or three stops, usually in somewhat of a circle to ensure we get back to the airport city. Other times, I rely on day trips to see more for my money. This is often the easiest way because then I only need to find one hotel/hostel/Airbnb for the duration. In any case, when booking a place to stay, we tend to use Booking.com because the filters really help us narrow down all the options based on what we need for a given trip (i.e. “parking”, “dog-friendly”, etc.). We also have the added bonus of being able to look back at places we’ve stayed in the past, which we’ve used on several return trips.
Whether we go for a loop or a series of day trips, I love a good map!
Throughout our years of traveling together, we’ve basically run the gamut, staying in dormitories, pods, hotels, inns, apartments, houses, etc. It really all depends on what you want to spend, what you’re comfortable with, and what’s available in the destination. My advice when choosing a place is to really focus on the most recent reviews. If there aren’t any reviews from the last few months, there’s probably a reason for that. You should also pay particular attention to the things that are most relevant to you. If you can’t sleep when there’s too much noise, search for that in the reviews. If you have to have AC, make sure you check that on the amenities list, etc. Also, remember that if you are bringing any electronics, you’ll likely need adapters to be able to use them abroad. We’ve forgotten so many times that I now have an army of adapters at home.
Okay, now that flights and hotels are taken care of, we can start looking into the things we might want to do while there. Usually, there are very few things I book in advance aside from transportation and lodging, but if we’re going somewhere very touristy (like Paris, Angor Wat, etc.) then we might need to pre-purchase tickets to the main attractions. Similarly, if we’re making a trip down to Peru with the main goal of seeing Machu Picchu, then I’d like to make sure we have any tickets, tours, or whatever else we might need for a large-scale excursion like that. Thankfully, so much of this can be done online these days although the final process might not be super clear until you actually arrive. There have been many times when we weren’t sure if we did what we were supposed to do ahead of time, but it has absolutely always worked out once we were there. Embrace the ambiguity as part of the adventure and remember that you’re a tourist, not a pioneer – there’s always someone to ask for help if you need it!
What?
And finally, the best part! How will you spend your days? Usually right after we book our flights, I like to start with a general Google search of “things to see in _____”, and go from there. I also love to read blogs written either by other tourists/travelers or even better, by people who live there. This is not only practical, but it also serves to get me super excited for the upcoming trip! Once I have enough ideas/information, I usually end up making a general list of things we might want to do, see, and eat while on the trip, which we can then check off as we go. Of course, I don’t think I’ve ever checked everything off of one of these lists, and things are typically added to it throughout our trip as well, but ultimately, it really helps us in coming up with plans while on the go and making sure we don’t forget anything in all the excitement of exploring a new place.
Even before we had smartphones lol
Once we’ve made it to our destination, we typically spend the first day or two just walking around to get our bearings and get acquainted with the area. We’ll usually wander around the major points of interest on a map or group some of the items from my list and do our own sort of walking tour. Most major cities have their own free walking tours that you can join if you prefer something with more structure. We’ve done many of these throughout the years and have always enjoyed them. Tucker tends to focus on the food during our travels, so whenever we’re hungry, we’ll usually find a park bench or a café, and he’ll go on the hunt (through heaps of Google reviews) for a place that possibly ticks even more things off our list.
Of course, our own research only goes so far, so another thing we love to do is ask locals what they would recommend. Usually starting with taxi/Uber drivers, we try to ask several people throughout our stay what they would recommend to tourists as far as things to see, foods to try, places to go, etc. This is why the list usually ends up with so many amendments! But some of our absolute favorite places were only discovered once we landed and started talking to locals about their home, so don’t be shy! Things are always changing, and those who live there always know best!
So that’s how we do it! As I was writing this, I started worrying whether or not this would be helpful to anyone since there really is so much variance between people, destinations, trips, etc. But hopefully something in here stuck out to you and might be of use during your next trip-planning session! Happy planning and bon voyage!
One of the things I love most about living abroad is getting to see much more of a country than I ever could on a more traditional vacation, and even though Canada is huge, I’m still setting my sights on visiting each and every province and territory while we’re here. So, to that end, we recently spent a week exploring the Maritime provinces of Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and New Brunswick.
Of course, the Maritimes were high on our to-visit list for many reasons, including but not limited to famous lighthouses, rocky beaches, and vastly changing tides, but there were still many surprises for us to discover during our trip! Here are some of our favorite things we ate, drank, and did while wandering around in Eastern Canada:
Nova Scotia
Probably the most famous of the three Maritime Provinces, we opted to fly in and out of Nova Scotia’s capital and largest city: Halifax. Prior to our visit, I think the only thing I really knew about Halifax was that there was a large explosion here in the early 1900s. However, I now have a plethora of opinions about this coastal city and a whole host of recommendations for anyone who visits in the future!
Good eats:
If you know me, you know seafood is not really my jam, so I was thinking I might be underwhelmed by Nova Scotia’s cuisine. Luckily, that wasn’t the case at all! One of the most famous dishes associated with Halifax is the curious Halifax Donair. Donair, doner, kebabs, or whatever you want to call them are popular in many places around the world, very often as a late-night, post-drinking meal, but the ones in Halifax definitely hit different. It might be the sweetened condensed milk in the sauce or maybe it’s the general vibes coming from the locals who hang around the most popular take-out joints, but if you’re going to Halifax, you absolutely must experience this delicacy for yourself!
Although I typically prefer savory dishes/meals as opposed to sweet snacks/desserts, I can’t not mention Nova Scotia’s Moon Mist ice cream. It was on my list of local foods to try as a unique swirl of grape, banana, and bubblegum ice cream specific to this region, but honestly, I thought, “oh, that’ll be nice to taste, but it probably won’t be my favorite”. But I was wrong! I loved it! I have no idea if the ice cream quality there was just superior or if that seemingly random combination is just something special, but I absolutely loved carrying my brightly colored ice cream cone with me down the waterfront feeling very much like a kid enjoying the last days of summer vacation!
Great drinks:
Trying out several local breweries has now become a habit of ours on longer trips, and Halifax did not disappoint. In fact, we were spoilt for choice and really only tried a small portion of all the brewery options in the city. One of our favorite spots was a newly opened Beer Garden from Good Robot Brewing. Their beers were really good and the atmosphere was perfect. Another place we really liked was Propeller Brewing Company. They had flight boards in the shape of propeller blades (so on theme!), and in addition to a beautiful patio, they also had board games and an arcade to enjoy while you sip.
Fun activities:
The most iconic thing we did while in Nova Scotia was probably our time spent at Peggy’s Cove. One of the most photographed places in Canada, Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse and its surroundings were absolutely beautiful. Don’t forget your jacket though because even on a hot August day, the wind and fog really cut deep (I truly felt bad for those wearing shorts and tank tops)! Another fun (and cheap) activity to do in Halifax is to take the ferry from the waterfront across the water to Dartmouth for a different view of the city. The ferry is part of the public transport system, so it was super easy and convenient.
Prince Edward Island
Perhaps the most idyllic Canadian province, Prince Edward Island is the setting for the classic Anne of Green Gables stories. Driving onto the island (across the second longest bridge in Canada), it really felt like we stepped back in time. Old wooden farmhouses are aplenty on PEI, and we even saw a horse-and-buggy crossing sign. If “charming” is something you’re looking for in a vacation destination, PEI might be the perfect place for you!
Good eats:
We only spent one day on the island, so our meals were somewhat limited. However, we did stumble upon a really cool place called the Prince Edward Island Preserve Company. Part store, part restaurant, part tourist attraction; it really checked off a lot of boxes! They serve several PEI specialties like seafood bubbly bake, potato pie, and raspberry cream cheese pie, and you can enjoy these treats in what looks like a dining room straight out of someone’s grandma’s house. There were quilts decorating the walls, hummingbird feeders at every picture window, and enough wooden furniture to make me think about fire safety. But my favorite part was definitely the walk around the gardens – so pretty!
Great drinks:
PEI is definitely what I’d call “rural”, but luckily, there are still several places you can go to try out some local brews, especially in Charlottetown (the capital). We opted for Craft Beer Corner, where we sampled some of Upstreet Craft Brewing’s beers. The beers were really good and the bathroom had a disco party option, so what more could you possibly ask for? We also considered checking out Deep Roots Distillery, which makes their own liquors from local ingredients, but unfortunately, we just didn’t have the time. There’s always something that gets moved to the next-time list!
Fun activities:
A lot of our day on Prince Edward Island was spent driving around to the different sights. After checking out the capital, we went to Cavendish beach/dunes/cliffs to get a little hiking in, but my favorite activity of the day (aside from the general windows-down, Canadian-music-blasting, road trip vibe) was watching the sunset on the western side of the island. With the help of Google maps and a sun-tracking app (which showed us exactly when and where the sun would set that day), we carefully selected and made our way to Seacow Head Cove and watched nature do its thing from the comfort of two very picturesque Muskoka chairs. Pure PEI Perfection!
New Brunswick
As a non-Canadian, the only thing that initially came to mind for New Brunswick was Brunswick stew, which as it turns out is from Brunswick County, Virginia…so prior to our trip, I had a bit of research to do on this one. And mostly because it was totally unknown to us, we actually chose to spend more than half our trip based in Moncton (the largest city of NB), and I’m so glad we did because it allowed us to see several different sides of this diverse and (in my opinion) underrepresented province!
Good eats:
We had a lot of delicious food in New Brunswick, including a lobster roll from the lobster capital of the world, scallops fresh from the Bay of Fundy, and another Maritime specialty: garlic fingers! However, our absolute favorite dish came from Tide & Boar Gastropub. It was a burrata and tomato appetizer, and we both strongly considered ordering another (which is unheard of for Tucker). In fact, the Gastropub was so good that we later went to Tide & Boar Brewing just to try more of their food and drinks. Speaking of…
Great drinks:
I swear, I’m not being paid to hype up Tide & Boar, but they also had the best beers of the trip! Their watermelon sour was quite possibly the best sour I’ve ever had, and through multiple flights and multiple visits (plus a couple of free samples from the super friendly staff), we were able to try everything they had on tap, and it was all amazing. Tucker even made sure to compliment their brew master lol. Another amazing brewery we visited in NB was Holy Whale Brewery out in Alma. Holy Whale got its name from the old church that now houses the brewery, and the stained-glass windows alone are enough of a reason to visit. Luckily, the beers were also great!
Fun activities:
The main reason we wanted to spend several days in New Brunswick was to make sure we’d be able to experience both the high and low tides of the Bay of Fundy. This bay boasts the world’s greatest tidal change at over 50ft (16m), and it was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. At low tide, you get to walk around on what is essentially the ocean floor, and if you want, you can find a place to sit, and over the course of an hour or two, watch the water level rise by several feet right in front of your eyes. So cool!
And there we have it! Another amazing trip in the books and another part of the world explored! Until next time, Maritimes! Cheers!
Dani Francuz Rose 